"Liftgate Open" -- For the THIRD TIME - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 44 Old 11-24-2012, 11:23 AM
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2003 KJ Liberty 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Greenville
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On my '03 Liberty, I took the weatherstripping off and located two switches. One on the passenger side and one on the driver side. Which one is the switch that needs the wires switched?

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post #17 of 44 Old 11-24-2012, 02:38 PM
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2008 XK Commander 
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Location: Newburgh
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On my Commander I had this same issue and I simply unplugged the switch connector on the liftgate latch. It happened twice when it rained and I woke up to the alarm going off on the truck and it said "liftgate open" The only downside is the interior lights dont come on when you open the rear hatch. Doesn't bother me, I just hit the unlock button on the key FOB or open a door.
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post #18 of 44 Old 03-11-2013, 03:25 PM
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2008 XJ Cherokee 
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Location: Boulder
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Just venting at this point! This has happened twice now to my 2008 Grand Cherokee Ltd Diesel after going through one of those automatic touch free car washes. Dealer has not heard or seen this issue. I do a google search and it's all over the place!

Sensor light started last night and I found out by alarm going off. Opened/closed hatch and sensor stayed on. I even drove around a bit with heater on full blast to dry it out and also dried out latch with towel. Alarm went off again after so I turned off interior lights via stalk switch and locked doors using door panel switch - I am not sure if this just locks doors or also activates alarm - anyone know? Alarm did not go off again that night and I think after some time, the sensor light went off - when I peeked into the dash it wasn't lit anyway. Sensor light on again in AM when I got into car. Drove straight to dealer and he got to me right away. However, he looked at the sensor light and then turned the car off. When he turned it back on, sensor light was not on! I was not happy - why didn't he leave it running knowing it was intermittent so mechanic could see it and diagnose? I drove 20 miles missed work so he could see the darn thing on and it never came back on at dealer! He said he didn't want to replace the latch for $250 not knowing what the problem was. So instead they put di-electric grease on the connectors - whatever that means! He also washed the car and took the hose and sprayed around the hatch to try and repeat the sensor, but to no avail. Now I just read the Technical Bulletin about reversing the wires (http://wkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk_0802207.pdf) and will give it to him for the next time. Why did I have to do that research? Very frustrated, but mostly annoyed that car was turned off at garage before mechanic could diagnose! Was it a ground? Who knows! Fair warning to all.
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post #19 of 44 Old 07-28-2013, 03:14 PM
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2009 WK 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Billingham
Posts: 81
Just had this problem manifest itself today and fingers crossed with wd40 , electrical grease and of course advice from this thread, I may have sorted it.

Question I'm left with though , is there any way to remove the sensor / switch from the lock assembly without springs lever and other bits pinging off everywhere ?
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post #20 of 44 Old 12-23-2013, 10:59 AM
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2011 KJ Liberty 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Merrickville
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I know what your problem is

I have had the same issue with my jeep three times as well. The last time I was told the problem is a faulty window seam and the leads will continue to corrode and sensors will continue to fail unless I get the seal replace with IS NOT covered by the warrenty. So unfortunately all I had them do was unhook the sensor that was telling me that the gate was open as I certainly don't have the money to pay for that and even if I did, I'm not going to. I'm trying to find enough people with the same issue to start a class action lawsuit.
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post #21 of 44 Old 12-23-2013, 10:52 PM
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2005 WK 
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Location: Philadelphia
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Wow, lots of over thinking in this thread.

If you get this message, then you need to pop the rear glass and unscrew the two screws in the middle near the latch. The sensor is on the drivers side near the middle. Unplug that and the message will go away.

To fix this, you need to reverse the wires.

For those that get this and can't access the plug right away, you do realize that you can dim your lights all the way off and you won't have your lights on, right?

05 WK LTD 5.7L Hemi QD II Midnight Blue Pearl, Blue WK Club member #30
Intune, AFE Stage 2 CAI, BT Catch Can, Gibson Cat-back, OME HD, 255/75/17 BFG KM1s, 1.25" Spidertrax, LED Interior, Reverse & Tail Lights, 3/4" Grille, Chrome Fuel Door & handles, SRT8 Pedals, Taylor Shorties, XK knob, 4xGuard Front 4 & Rear Diff.
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post #22 of 44 Old 12-26-2013, 02:29 PM
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2010 KJ Liberty 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Strongsville
Posts: 1
Lift gate

I've had the same problem.
Just got back from dealer they wanted $360 to fix it
Ha ha ha there crazy
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post #23 of 44 Old 12-27-2013, 12:19 AM
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: burlington
Posts: 101
It's a grounding issue, if you don't believe me try pushing the rear defrost button when the hatch is CLOSED but the light is still on with jeep running.

99 Tj off road rig
06 Xk lots of mods, Daily Driver
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post #24 of 44 Old 04-01-2014, 11:57 AM
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2010 JK Wrangler 
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Location: Havertown
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Originally Posted by blizzboy283 View Post
Wow, lots of over thinking in this thread.

If you get this message, then you need to pop the rear glass and unscrew the two screws in the middle near the latch. The sensor is on the drivers side near the middle. Unplug that and the message will go away.

To fix this, you need to reverse the wires.

For those that get this and can't access the plug right away, you do realize that you can dim your lights all the way off and you won't have your lights on, right?
That sensor is for the LIFT GLASS not the LIFT GATE Which I believe is the issue here. Had this issue also and the service bulletin is not much help as far as locating the proper wires. Think I'll leave this for the dealership to handle.

2010 Flame Red Sahara, Rough Country stubby bumper/winch, Body Armor rock sliders, stiff spring mod and RC 2.5" series II spacer lift (~3.5" total lift), 33X12.5 Duratracs on 15" MB72s.
2007 Grand Cherokee Limited, Red Rock, 5.7L HEMI
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post #25 of 44 Old 06-26-2014, 09:35 PM
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2010 KJ Liberty 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Freeport
Posts: 1
A Constant problem

I bought my Jeep Liberty last year at a major dealer just outside Pittsburgh and was really thrilled with it... for the most part.

Over this past winter I took my Jeep to the automatic car wash and that night my car alarm started going off. For about an hour the alarm would go off every 10 or 15 minutes and I couldn't figure out what was causing it. The neighbors called the police and I explained something was wrong with my car and that I was going to leave the alarm disengaged.

I live in a decent neighborhood, so, I wasn't too worried. I've called the dealership about this and they said it's a sensor, but they want an egregious amount of money to fix it. This, apparently, is a manufacturer defect. I'm not impressed. AT ALL.

It's been months and I just noticed that my Jeep's interior lights were on. The alarm has not been used these past several months, but it seems that I will have to shut the interior lights completely off as well. I have no idea how long they've been doing this or how long they stay on when I'm not around, but I don't want to end up with a dead battery because the manufacturer flubbed when they were putting these Jeeps together.

I think I'll Google search every car I ever look at in the future to find out what foul-up the vehicle has and make sure the dealership fixes it before I drive it off the lot and it becomes MY problem.
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post #26 of 44 Old 02-27-2015, 06:29 PM
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i found a fix for a similar problem i was having

I bought my jeep brand new three years ago its a jeep liberty 2012 this year i am having the same issue i tried the air duster and it worked temporarily but i unscrewed the latch part on the back window and put caulking between it and the window screwed it down just barely snug let it dry then screwed it down tightly. it no longer leaks! hope this helps !
it leaks because the didn't run the seal all the way there is a little gap right there.

p.s it only ever did it to my jeep when i rained.
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post #27 of 44 Old 03-06-2015, 12:27 AM
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2008 WK 
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Posts: 47
HATE the little things like this.. but LOVE these forums!!
My wife has reported this happening to her twice this winter while driving home.. and I have seen it twice in HEAVY storms this winter in my driveway...
Honestly, didn't know what to make of it.. it even slipped from memory.. just scanning the forums and I saw this!..

I know what I'll be doing tomorrow! lol
Thanks for all the info folks!
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post #28 of 44 Old 07-08-2015, 10:16 AM
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A leak in lift gate

Same problem here. The leak must be fixed first or you will be replacing sensors and electric parts forever. I had the problem for some time and after much digging I found the problem. Jeep did a substandard job on their welding above lift gate door and lift gate hinges. I removed the hinges one at a time, cleaned rust, reprimed and painted under hinges. I put a good amount of RTV silicone between hinge and body, let dry 24 hrs, problem solved. I found one hole through the body accepting the hinge was drilled to big and rain was getting under hinge and into body. It then built up and leaked into lift gate door and inside vehicle. Was thinking of making gaskets, but thought the space would affect the gate alignment. Hope this helps. Ken
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post #29 of 44 Old 07-19-2015, 03:37 PM
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Same problem. Had my alarm going off at 2:30 am and me getting a phone call from the police saying that my alarm was going off and my neighbors were wondering if everything was okay. I just took the panel off and unplugged the connector switch. I don't want my jeep to tell me that my lift gate is open anyway.
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post #30 of 44 Old 09-03-2015, 02:11 AM
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Location: Minot
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2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Rear hatch sensor bypass. After 500+ miles of the chime in the dash insanity kinda took over and being a mechanic, I tore into the SOB to figure it out.
First pop the plastic panal.
5 screws one by the inside handle 2 towards the bottom center of the panel and 2 half way up on the ledge where the glass starts.
I was so uhh mad... when I'd gotten to this point I didn't use a panel popper for the tabs that run along the edge. I just stuffed a flat head between the metal and plastic and broke the tabs. You may want to use a panel removal tool. Mines a junker so it didn't matter to me. And after the screws are back in it holds just fine.
Ok so now your panel is flopped down. With your butt on the rear bumper looking up you'll see a bunch of wires and the metal rods. Follow the metal rods to the door latches on each side of the door. (On each side)You'll see a black braided jacket with the wires inside. Cut the the jacked,wires and all as close to the latchs as you. Cut the jacket back a couple inches and strip the wires as needed for butt connectors. Pull the wires from the left side and pop the tab that holds them to the metal part and pull it over to the wires on the right and strip them the same. There will be a very light tan wire and a black wire. You have to connect the 2 tan wires together and the 2 black wires together. (tan/tan) (black/black). Secure with a zip tie. Slap the panel back on and you'll be ready to go!
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