I've actually heard of people modding the stock struts for an extra 1/4". Basically, they removed the bolt connecting the fork to the strut, slide the fork down .25", drill a new hole in the tab for the fork bolt and bolt it up. Basically the same effect as the Bilsteins. I haven't actually looked into this myself to see how much meat would be left below the fork strap, but it makes sense. Maybe I'll investigate this weekend. An extra 1/4" in front certainly wouldn't hurt me.
As far as the tab on the Bilsteins being 1/4" off, IDK this for fact. It's what I've "heard" though. Don't have them myself.
keep in mind, 1/4" at the strut will become 1/2" at the wheel, so you don't have to drill too far.
If you do investigate, Please let me know. Mine is a DD so I can't have it up in the air long to explore. I have to go in, do it, get out...
from Kolak-- 5 minutes after I asked...
I don't really see any evidence that the coil spring seat is in a different position. Many times the lift is because stock shocks wear out very quickly and thus ride height is restored. This I can say, the Bilsteins are the best struts and shocks for the WK - their high pressure monotube design is the pinnacle of shock technology offering the best possible handling, ride control, fade resistance and most rapid responsiveness of any shock type. They have a lifetime warranty. Price is $310.00 for the set of four.
I have not had an single issue with a 2" lift. The Daystar kit is priced at $150.00 and is very high quality - they make their urethane here in the USA.
@ Kolak if you read this. I wasn't refering to the coil seat, but rather the tab that the bolt from the lower fork passes through. If you happen to get your hands on two to compare I'd be curious to know for sure since this is simply something I have heard.
Buda, this is what you are talking about (pic)
You take the clamp off the bottom of the strut, cut a 1/4" 45 degree bevel all the way around the bottom of it, then weld a small metal tab (important) on the top where the strut's locating tab rests. The locating hole strut where the bolt goes through is oval shaped, and there is not enough material to drill a new hole, so you have to use a file to make the hole longer.
Depending on how much lift you already have and the angle of your upper and lower control arms, you will gain anywhere from 1/2" to 1" of lift. I have RC spacers + 1/4" rustys type spacers (fabricated). When I added this, I gained another 3/4" of lift from a 3/16" lift here.
The further the control arms get from horizontal, the more lift you will get from adding length to the strut assembly. 1/4" at the strut assembly does not alawys = 1/2" at the wheel. If the LCA is horizontal, then 1/4" at the strut assembly = 1/2" at the wheel, but if the LCA is at about 25 degrees past horizontal, then 1/4" longer strut will = closer to 1" at the wheel.
This is how I swapped out the studs for longer bolts in my strut plates.
First I hosed the bolts down with PB blaster and let them soak for a bit. Then I grabbed a 7/8" socket.
I placed it under the head of the stud and gave it a few whacks with a mini sledge.
They popped out easy enough. This is what I grabbed to replace them.
I am sure you could find actual studs instead of using bolts, but I didn't feel like searching. Here is a comparison.
The one bad thing about using bolts it that you have to secure them in to keep them from spinning. I just tack welded each bolt a couple of times and then shot them with some paint to keep them from rusting.
Also, Meep, what lift do you have? If it's the RC, couldn't you put one spacer between the strut mount and the RC spacer, and then one ontop of the RC? Rather then stacking both together. Then you wouldn't have to press in new bolts.
Sunrcr69- That is exactly what I was talking about. I'm curious though, why the chamfer on the bottom?
Excellent illustration by BTW.
The lower 4" of the strut looks like this (pic). There's actually a manufaturing seam at the bottom of the strut.
if you move the clamp down, it will need to be chamferred about 1/4" to clear the seam so that the clamp mates properly with the strut body when tightened.
With the RC spacer, 1/4" rustys type spacer, and this lower shock mod with 3/16" tab welded to the strut fork (clamp), I have 3.5 ish" inches of lift. However, the front feels stiffer due to the angle of the strut -vs- the angle of the control arms. when fully extended (lifted up by a jack), there is about 1/2 mm of clearance where 2005GRANDONE's is rubbing.
I'd say the RC spacer, 1/4" rustys type spacer, and this lower shock mod with 3/16" tab welded to the strut fork (clamp) is as high as you want to go with this configuration. Any more and youll see pics like those above on your jeep.
Not sure what lift I have because I bought it this way but I measure 22 1/2 up front and 22 in the rear. Any ideas on how to find out the brand of my lift without tracking down the previous owner lol he left his address in the navi.. I've got bilstein shocks up front as well as 1 1/4 wheel spacers..