I'm a new member but been lurking here for a while. This spring I bought my first Jeep, in fact my first american. My last rig was a Nissan Terrano II which wasn't bad but getting a bit worn. Wanting a V8 and to have owned at least one american car, a khaki 05 GC with a HEMI was my choice (I almost bought a 35" WJ, but for some unclear reason didn't).
Having driven it now for one summer (autumn seems to come early this year) and getting a feel for what it does, what has impressed me most is how good it is on gravel roads, even rough ones. It's suspension just eats up all but the biggest holes (I even drive washboards quite fast). Downside is however that it needs a little taller feet and it's to soft in the city (wobbly is the word that comes to mind).
I've started prepping for some modifications (and hopefully improvements). Part of that has been reading threads here for various mods and builds (there's a LOT of stuff here and some very interesting builds).
The base of my build will be the lift. My head keeps going this way and that but mostly I come back to the OME HD or possibly SL. What I'm looking to do is to use 33x12,5 tires or possibly 35s, and I'm wondering if the OME will be enough for the 33s. The SL, while preferrable, is a bit expensive, more so because my shocks (and possibly springs) are getting worn out and would need to be replaced as well. Shipping these things to Iceland almost doubles the price of everything. However, on 35s I'll have a car to use in the winter if conditions are good.
The only thing that i don't need to ship here are the flares.
So, a few questions. Any comments and advice will be very welcome!
Have any of you gone for wider than the 285? Where are they rubbing, inside the fender or fender lip? Since it's a unibody I'd prefer not to cut much and besides, there's very little room for cutting at the rear door.
The OME MD, does that lift less than the HD in the real world? I do not intend to add much weight (some, but not much). Have you known it to sag with time? HD or MD is something i've thougt a lot about, I fear that with HD I'll loose much of what it does on bad roads.
The SL and 35s. Have you seen much increased wear on suspension, steering and drivetrain? Does that bit that's supposed to cure the ESP work?
How much do the kits weigh? The OME and the SL?
While lifting, have you changed more than springs and shocks? UCAs? The insulators on springs and shocks? Something else?
As far as the wider tires check out Omelets thread, he had 285's then moved up to 295's and now has 35's so he would be the perfect guy to ask about that. From what i have seen the OME HD does tend to lift a little bit more due to the higher spring rate. I myself am curious aswell on the SL with 35's wear and tear. I know some people run the 35's but usually only offroad and the ESP issue has been fixed since they started adding an EGR to their kits.
2010 JKU - Stock for now
2005 WK - 6" lift, 35" BFG's, a lot more (SOLD)
I just talked to a guy with a CRD on 35s who says it's not that much (more than stock of course, but reasonably). His car is on 120.000 km and he's changed the front wheel bearings, the UCAs and one stearing end (cant remember the english word) in the last 2 years.
Hmmm.... Had not noticed before, but yeah, their english version is a bit limited.
I can help you with that. "Brettakantar" means fender flares and they make them for various types from fiberglass mostly but some from plastic. This company has been making all kinds of flares, lids, boxes for all kinds of purposes (not just cars) for some years now. They also put them on and do the painting as well. They are owned by a company who has been modifing vehicles for a long time (www.breytir.is but their english version is all in icelandic for some reason ).
You can fit a 33x12.5 on a modified OME lift which is OME with (2) 1/4" strut spacers and a 1.5" rear coil spacer (those you can get from Rustys Offroad). For 35s however you will need a modified superlift which you can do 4" SL, bilstein 5100 adjustable struts, stock front coils, 6" rear coils, and 12" travel rear shocks.
BTW welcome to the forums, and im looking forward to some icelandic action shots!
Am understanding this correctly, I'd need 0.5 inch in addition to the OME in front and 1.5" at the rear? What would I be rubbing without this? I wonder since I think that, to some extent, cutting might be preferrable to overly pushing the lift.
I met the guy with the gray wk in the link above, last night. He originally had just the SL and 35s, but he had some cutting done front (front and rear of fender) but none at the rear. This, he said, worked fine but he doesn't wheel in true off-road like you guys are doing (bad roads and rivers is our wheeling). He later replaced the shock absorbers.
With a 33 you will need to fold the pinch wled over in the rear of the front wheel well and with a 12.5" wide tire, either get wheels spacers, a wider offset wheel, or trim the UCA bolt. Adding the extra lift just gives more clearance. Like mentioned above check out Omelets build thread, hes gone from OME to modifed OME to Superlift to modified Superlift. The 1/2" spacer up front gives you more like 3/4" to 1" of lift and the 1.5" spacer in the rear replaces the bottom coil isolator and gives you 1" to 1.25" of lift.
Ok I see. I'll be doing the pinch weld and probably (at least at some point) replace the UCAs with something like what JBA is selling. I'll be reaching for max lift without dropping the front axle with the spacers? That's what I understood from Omelet's thread and won't have much travel left either.
I'm looking for new wheels (got this thing about wheel spacers). It also looks better with the flares. If you know about anyone selling 17x10 inch wheels with 4-5 inch backspace and fits on Jeeps, I'd appreciate a heads-up.