New to the forums here but not new to Jeeps. I had a 98 GC that I drove for 12 years and only sold due to how bad it was rusting up. When I sold the 98 I bought a 2010 Honda Pilot touring edition for the wife and we had it about 2 years before hating the payment and selling it.
After a few weeks of looking I just picked up a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Trailhawk edition if that is a real thing?) It has the 4.7 V8 with 106,000 miles on it. Great shape and looks like there was never a kid in the backseat of it. It is loaded with all the options including dvd player which the daughter loves. It has the factory tow package and 3:73 rear end. I gotta say after driving the pilot for two years this thing feels like a sports car compared to the pilot. Best thing of all though is I now don't have $550 per month payment!
Anyhow I figured I better join this forum as now that I'm back to an older vehicle I will be back to wrenching on it some...... Although hopefully not all the time.
What are the first things you suggest doing to it maintenance wise? It already has new brakes and rotors all the way around and had the pinion seal replaced on the rear diff (which I had to do twice on my 98). I was thinking new plugs, tranny service, replace the antifreeze, and service the 4 wheel drive system. Are there any good links to what fluids to use in this thing? Thanks
Stick to OE/Dealer fluid for the t-case and power steeringm they are specific to this application. Diffs are 75w140. Add the LSD additive if you have QuadraDRIVE-II (12-bolts on rear diff cover).
Ha, I wondered about the description I was given by the dealership which is why I stated if that's a real thing lol. I did a bunch of research and never could find a reference to a trailhawk in 2007. Not a big deal to me though the options were still nice enough. Thanks for the info. I I'll have to check the diff and get the fluids from the dealer.
Funny story the first night I bought it I was convinced it had electrical issues as the high beams kept turning on and off....... I had no idea there was such a thing as auto high beams. Never owned a vehicle with those before.
I can't post URLs, but you can put it together. www . wkjeeps . com / wk_maintenance.htm
If you don't have service records, you want to get under there and see if the transmission pan has been dropped before. If you think it was done at 60k, you should be good for a 20,000 more miles.
I just put shocks all around on my 2007 WK with 94k miles on it... It drives just like it was new again. something to consider, and relatively inexpensive if you can do it yourself.
I think you're right on with the transmission, front/rear diff, plugs, etc. It can't hurt, and I believe these WK Jeeps will reward you if you stay up on the maintenance. Always go for the correct fluids... I personally just buy the correct Mopar fluids rather than using a 3rd party, but YMMV.
Just checked the rear diff and it only has ten bolts on the rear cover. So I'm assuming that means it doesn't have quadradrive 2? What does that actually mean? Also I'm assuming that means I don't have electronic type of locking diffs?
Did you buy it through a Fiat/Chrysler dealer? If so, you should ask their service department to print out a build sheet. It'll list just about every part that went into your rig.... it's useful.
You have Quadra-TRAC II then. Same transfer case as the QDII models, but standard open differentials. NV245 is your t-case.
Manual will call for 75w140 in the axles, but IMO 75w90 is just fine for the open diffs unless you're planning to tow at/near the limit. No LSD additive needed for you.
If you do decide to service the trans as well, buy the filters at the dealer. Best way to ensure you get the most up to date quality filter. Not much more expensive than aftermarket filters and worth the peace of mind. Fluid can be any brand you like, so long as it's specifically branded ATF+4 and nothing else. Walmart sells it under the super tech name, it's just fine.
I see lots of posts from people that put the wrong fluids and have trouble with the transmission or transfer case. Use the wrong oil, and your MDS might malfunction (not sure what yours does). In my opinion, there just isn't enough savings to be worth the risk, so belly up to the Mopar parts counter and get what they say goes in it.
Find a youtube video for changing the tranny, and pay attention to the filter gasket that can be stuck up in there. Some creamy metal paste on the magnet is no reason to panic, in my experience. I've had tranny shops try to scare me by showing me 1/4" of smooth metal particles on the magnet. Then I towed and offroaded for years after ignoring their advice.
On the transfer case, make sure you don't strip it out by using a 3/8" when 10mm is what it should be. The Allen recesses are probably so dirty you have to scrape it out in order to get the hex key in. 15-25 foot pounds, and use a Teflon tape or marine grade anti-seize (or both). When using things that lube the threads, I tend to go on the very low end of the torque range. You don't want to over insert your drain plug and have some thing like a cracked case. Make sure you can get the fill plug loose before you drop the fluid out.
I think fluids is all I would do until you have a symptom. While you're poking around under there, changing fluids, look for damaged split loom (wire protection). Also look for any wire chafing on something. I haven't been impressed at all by how my GC manages wires in some places. I also have a lot of old, dry, cracked split loom, which I randomly replace as I work on things.
The difference between Quadra Drive II and Quadra-Trac II is quite a bit if you like offroading. I suspect that for winter driving, or skiing, you'd never notice the difference.
Welcome to the forum. Definitely check out the WKJeeps website. It has lots of good info. Get a Chilton's manual if you can. I have a Haynes, and it lacks a lot of stuff I hope is in the Chilton's.
Personally, I'd ditch the running boards if you ever offroad. They will hang up on something, get you stuck, and then they'll be so bent you can't get them off (voice of experience here). I do run rock rails, but that's a different animal.
Man you all are awesome! Thanks for all the advice and information. Definitely going to use dealer fluids for the drive train.
Funny you mentioned the oil pan with a drain, great minds must think alike as I had priced one out last night lol. I wish they would just put a plug in those stupid pans from the factory. First thing I did when I changed the fluid on my 98 tranny was put a pan with a plug.
As far as the stupid running boards go they are coming off for sure. I would love to put a 3" lift on but my wife's not sold on it and she will be driving it more than me so time will tell. I told her she can drive my 2004 Cummins and I will drive the Jeep lol. Feels good to be back in a Jeep.
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