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Unread 10-23-2012, 11:03 PM   #31
r_unda
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My catch can has been seating in my garage for a while now. I think I am going to copy your install this weekend. Any updates? How often does the can fills up? how often are you replacing the air filter? and where did you get the airbox fighting?

Thanks!

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Unread 11-03-2012, 08:43 AM   #32
r_unda
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Went ahead and installed the catch can. I used a "U" shaped 1" hose, 1 clamp, a nylon 1 to 1/2" reducer, 5 of 1/2" hose.

I did not route it back to the air intake as Suzieque did just yet. I just dropped the 1/2" hose from the catch can under the car up front near the front bumper. I wanted to see if there was any visual indication of oil after the catch can. So far after a week no oil indication, the catch can appears to be catching all the oil.


Overall view



Aluminum plug and connection to 1" "U" shaped hose


1" to 1/2" nylon reducer
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My Jeep isn't getting older, it's getting newer part by part

2011 WK2 HEMI 4x4 Overland
2007 WK CRD 4x4 Limited GDE Tuned
1998 TJ SE
1973 CJ5 - YJ OME 2.5" lift, 33" tires
1951 Willys truck
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Unread 11-03-2012, 05:31 PM   #33
suzieque
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Good work!
I went to the airbox because I wanted a vacuum applied to the crankcase breather.
I got the airbox fitting from the automotive parts store. I just bought a PCV fitting that fit my hose. I still get some oil in the airbox so that means the catchcan is not stopping 100 % of the vapours.
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Unread 11-08-2012, 09:13 PM   #34
mw1414
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Step 1 is complete - I have replaced the air intake that has the orange gasket with a new air intake which has a black gasket and there was a lot of oil that has leaked from the air intake onto the swirl motor.
Step 2 - I am waiting for my aluminum plug to arrive from Kurt Kiefer at Shibby Engineering.
The original flow had the CCV air flowing into the stock air intake so I can assume that there needs to be some sort of vacuum in order to make things work (or in order to keep things as 'original' as possible).
My questions are with the catch can install -
1. Can I assume that if one of the hoses leaving the catch can is simply left to drain below the vehicle that it would be sealed. I believe I saw another member with a valve on the end of this hose and therefore could drain the hose periodically if there is any oil build-up. If this is the case would the sealed line cause any pressure upstream? Obviously the stock air intake system was designed to permit and even promote the flow of air? Would preventing the normal flow damage any components upstream?
2. If a valve is not used on the hose coming from the catch can I have read there is a chance that some oil vapour or oil may drip from this hose. If this hose is not directed into the air box and therefore there is no vacuum, is there a chance of damaging any component upstream?
3. Suzieque - do you have a part number for the "airbox fitting?" In order to install the air box fitting did you simply drill a hole in the air box? I am looking to install a Billet Technology catch-can in a similar fashion to yours and my only question so far is about this air box fitting you have installed. Are you still satisfied with this configuration? Is there any chance that the colder temperatures and potential for increased condensation will become a problem?
Thanks.
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Unread 11-09-2012, 02:47 PM   #35
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mw1414 View Post
Step 1 is complete - I have replaced the air intake that has the orange gasket with a new air intake which has a black gasket and there was a lot of oil that has leaked from the air intake onto the swirl motor.
Step 2 - I am waiting for my aluminum plug to arrive from Kurt Kiefer at Shibby Engineering.
The original flow had the CCV air flowing into the stock air intake so I can assume that there needs to be some sort of vacuum in order to make things work (or in order to keep things as 'original' as possible).
My questions are with the catch can install -
1. Can I assume that if one of the hoses leaving the catch can is simply left to drain below the vehicle that it would be sealed. I believe I saw another member with a valve on the end of this hose and therefore could drain the hose periodically if there is any oil build-up. If this is the case would the sealed line cause any pressure upstream? Obviously the stock air intake system was designed to permit and even promote the flow of air? Would preventing the normal flow damage any components upstream?
I believe the member you are referring to has the elephant-hose-mod which does not use a catch-can. He just installed a plastic fitting on the end of the hose, not a valve. Regardless, you don't want to plug/restrict the outlet. A blocked or restricted crankcase breather will, at the very least, blow your dipstick out of the tube, while in the worst case scenario blow some engine seals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw1414 View Post
2. If a valve is not used on the hose coming from the catch can I have read there is a chance that some oil vapour or oil may drip from this hose. If this hose is not directed into the air box and therefore there is no vacuum, is there a chance of damaging any component upstream?
well, yes that was my theory, I didn't want to chance damaging anything so I installed to the airbox, but it seems a number of guys have just an elephant-hose-mod and no issues with seals. The guys with the elephant-hose-mod do not have catch-cans so there is a reduced chance of a restriction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mw1414 View Post
3. Suzieque - do you have a part number for the "airbox fitting?" In order to install the air box fitting did you simply drill a hole in the air box? I am looking to install a Billet Technology catch-can in a similar fashion to yours and my only question so far is about this air box fitting you have installed.
Actually, when I first installed, I just cut a hole in the air box and stuck the hose into the air box through the hole and that worked just fine. After a while I just decided I wanted a more professional finish, so I spent some time at the auto parts store looking at a rack of PCV fittings until I found a fitting I liked. Sorry, I didn't keep the part number.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw1414 View Post
Are you still satisfied with this configuration? Is there any chance that the colder temperatures and potential for increased condensation will become a problem?
I installed this setup in May, so I've not run this configuration in the winter yet, but you raise a good question. Previously, I had a Racor setup where I did run the hose back to the stock air intake tube, not the airbox, so it basically used the stock inline heater to melt any condensation. The problem I noticed is that the Racor was not catching all the oil vapor, some oil was still getting into the intake. I will be more vigilent and look for condensation in my new catch-can. It is easy for me to check since the model I bought is clear and water would make the oil appear milky so I do know what to look for. Also, I park in a garage in the winter where the minimum temperature is +5 celcius (40 degrees fahrenheit). If you are worried about the condensation issue, then you should run the hose back to the air intake tube and utilize the stock inline heater for the winter.
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Unread 11-09-2012, 02:59 PM   #36
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http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_catch_can.htm

noticed the catch can is also on the wkjeeps website.
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Unread 11-10-2012, 10:42 AM   #37
mw1414
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Thanks for all of this great info. Great advice to "utilize the stock inline heater for the winter." I am hoping the catch-can mod, plus the new air intake will sort out a problem I have been having. I will know more when my code reader arrives but my vehicle suffers from some sort of issue when it sits all night in the rain (high moisture) and near freezing temperatures (0 to 4 degrees Celcius). Under these conditions my Jeep will run for about 2-5 minutes then stall with the check engine light and the Electronic Throttle Control light. Quite a dangerous situation on a highway without a shoulder. Neutral is selected in order to coast to the edge of the road and the vehicle is NOT in limp mode, it is shut down completely. A restart is possible but then the vehicle only goes 50-100 metres and stalls again. I thought this was sorted last spring with a new fuel filter. But as soon as the near freezing temperatures and moisture conditions came back in the fall, the situation reappeared. After 4-5 stalls, the ETC light goes out and things are back to normal. The check engine light goes out after another 4-5 engine on-off cycles. So as not to hijack this thread with my issue, I will wait until the code reader arrives and create a new thread. Thanks so much for the info on the catch-can mod. Can't wait until mine arrives.
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Unread 12-11-2012, 12:49 PM   #38
r_unda
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Unfortunately I had to remove my installation. For some reason during long trips (250miles, average speed 70mph) my oil was leaking through the oil cap.


During my first trip I thought that since I did not connected it to the airbox it needed the suction from the intake to be able to pull all of the blowby. So I connected it to the airbox just like suzieque did. This did not helped since during my second trip oil was still leaking.


During my third trip with everything removed I had no leak.



Strange! no?
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2011 WK2 HEMI 4x4 Overland
2007 WK CRD 4x4 Limited GDE Tuned
1998 TJ SE
1973 CJ5 - YJ OME 2.5" lift, 33" tires
1951 Willys truck
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Unread 12-11-2012, 05:51 PM   #39
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hmmm, I have not noticed any oil leaks with the setup.

I recall another owner with a racor or provent that kept getting leaks, he finally gave up and switched to the elephant hose mod and the leaks stopped.
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Unread 12-12-2012, 07:22 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r_unda View Post
Unfortunately I had to remove my installation. For some reason during long trips (250miles, average speed 70mph) my oil was leaking through the oil cap.

During my first trip I thought that since I did not connected it to the airbox it needed the suction from the intake to be able to pull all of the blowby. So I connected it to the airbox just like suzieque did. This did not helped since during my second trip oil was still leaking.

During my third trip with everything removed I had no leak.

Strange! no?
I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with the catch can mod! I had this problem with the CRD when we first bought it. It was leaking at the oil cap as well and when it leaks there it drips down onto the alternator causing it to eventually fail. A new cap costs $30 and get it soon as it will cause your alternator to fail. This is also long before I did my elephant hose mod as well.
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Unread 12-12-2012, 07:47 AM   #41
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Quote:
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A new cap costs $30 and get it soon as it will cause your alternator to fail. This is also long before I did my elephant hose mod as well.
do you happen to have the part# for the cap?
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Unread 12-12-2012, 07:53 AM   #42
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This thread has the part numbers for the oil filler cap. It might be cheaper than I remember but I got it from the stealer so maybe why I paid more.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/o...ormal-1275068/
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Unread 12-12-2012, 10:33 AM   #43
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I also had the Racor filter installed and found it did not work. Oil was still getting past the filter. I have since installed the elephant mod and have been running it for at least a year. I just completed a trip of 1800 miles in two days. I checked for oil leaks after my return and found none under the hood. For the first time I did have oil leaking from the outlet of the elephant mod onto the pavement. This was the first time I have ever seen oil leaking from that outlet. On occasion I can see the vapors coming from the outlet of the elephant mod when sitting in the vehicle. I'm wondering if the oil leak from the oil cap as mentioned above could be from a bad O-ring that many members have mentioned after doing an oil change.
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Unread 12-12-2012, 03:25 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by fred99x View Post
I also had the Racor filter installed and found it did not work. Oil was still getting past the filter. I have since installed the elephant mod and have been running it for at least a year. I just completed a trip of 1800 miles in two days. I checked for oil leaks after my return and found none under the hood. For the first time I did have oil leaking from the outlet of the elephant mod onto the pavement. This was the first time I have ever seen oil leaking from that outlet. On occasion I can see the vapors coming from the outlet of the elephant mod when sitting in the vehicle. I'm wondering if the oil leak from the oil cap as mentioned above could be from a bad O-ring that many members have mentioned after doing an oil change.
I had considered removing the filter from the Racor housing and just run the Racor output hose underneath the Jeep, like a elephant hose mod. This would give you the potential advantage of capturing the oil, rather than leaking on the ground.

I didn't suggest that r_unda replace his oil fill cap because I assumed it only started leaking after the catch can was installed, but certainly if the oil fill cap was borderline capable of stopping the oil vapors, then I suppose installing the catch can could have made it leak.
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Unread 12-12-2012, 06:22 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaje View Post
I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with the catch can mod! I had this problem with the CRD when we first bought it. It was leaking at the oil cap as well and when it leaks there it drips down onto the alternator causing it to eventually fail. A new cap costs $30 and get it soon as it will cause your alternator to fail. This is also long before I did my elephant hose mod as well.
Cap is about 10K miles old so its pretty new. Don't know what the cause is but removing the can stopped the leak. I think I just going to go with a tune to eliminate the swirl motor.
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My Jeep isn't getting older, it's getting newer part by part

2011 WK2 HEMI 4x4 Overland
2007 WK CRD 4x4 Limited GDE Tuned
1998 TJ SE
1973 CJ5 - YJ OME 2.5" lift, 33" tires
1951 Willys truck
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