Injector Seal 2008 WK Diesel - blown again! - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WK Grand Cherokee & XK Commander Forum > Injector Seal 2008 WK Diesel - blown again!

Rubicon Express Suspensions from CCOR 706-207-4140Smittybilt Hard Tops @ Oconee Off-Road! 706-534-9955XHD Heavy-Duty Hood Latches for JK and TJ available at Oco

Reply
Unread 09-03-2014, 02:25 PM   #1
Shmigsy
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 36
Injector Seal 2008 WK Diesel - blown again!

Hi everyone,

Recently got an error codes for a glow plug. 86000km/53000 miles since the first change at 100000km and 4 are still in good shape) .

However I was also greeted by a melted rubber baffle. Apparently there had been blow by for a while and it melted it. So the seal and the return line are toast. Real mess that took me hours to clean up.

I didn't want to start to mess with the injectors so I brought into the dealer. Of course as usual its all doom and gloom and only one mechanic is qualified to work on the diesel and he has never replaced an injector seal.

He seems trust worthy so I gave him the job.

Today I got a call that in order to get to the cylinder 5 injector they would have to remove the engine crossbar, and in order to do that, also the wiper fluid container and fuse box - so tack n at least 1.5-2 hrs.

Merlin - if you are still out there would you or anyone else have the units called for for removing the injector. The shroud, and rubber baffles are already out as I could not put them back on. and the elephant tube is off as they had to remove it to access the the fuel filter.

Photos show good side vs. bad

Thanks

_dsc3426.jpg   _dsc3425.jpg   _dsc3431.jpg  

Last edited by Shmigsy; 09-03-2014 at 02:35 PM.. Reason: Photos
Shmigsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-03-2014, 04:11 PM   #2
furiousbudy
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: lazo, British-Columbia
Posts: 60
Did one on my jeep, get an injector puller for the mercedes OM 642 engine, a stretch bold, and the copper seal. The worst part is to clean the mess!
__________________
-2008 WK CRD Limited (145,000 KM)
-2010 Suzuki King quad 450 (6,000KM)/2010 Suzuki Queen quad 450 (Wife)/Triton Trailer 8x12
-2007 Pionneer 18CK travel trailer
furiousbudy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-03-2014, 05:33 PM   #3
TangoTango
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,132
that is about what mine looked like, looks way worst than it is, that is just the foam injector shield melted. basically the $3 copper o-ring blew out. -- how many miles on it now?
best to replace ALL the 6 o-rings. I made the mistake of just doing the 1 side and was replacing the other side about 4 weeks later... so I've done it twice now.
I didn't have to remove the wiper cleaner container or the fuse box... or the tires ... LOL

the first day you need to soak it over night maybe 2 nights with injector cleaner. . the injectors then come out by hand... then there is a trick to getting the old o-rings out.
TangoTango is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-04-2014, 02:16 AM   #4
Red_liner740
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tottenham, On
Posts: 130
So thats where that melted black crap comes from. I went to look at an 08 CRD for my buddy and there was black melted foam all over the drivers side. I freaked out thinking the engine caught fire, but everything else was untouched.

So when the seal blows, the cylinder gasses melt the foam covers? What if the covers are not on?
Red_liner740 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-04-2014, 03:38 AM   #5
ggrassmid
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 50
subscribed...
ggrassmid is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-04-2014, 05:43 AM   #6
scootr29
Web Wheeler
 
scootr29's Avatar
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: SC
Posts: 2,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_liner740
So thats where that melted black crap comes from. I went to look at an 08 CRD for my buddy and there was black melted foam all over the drivers side. I freaked out thinking the engine caught fire, but everything else was untouched. So when the seal blows, the cylinder gasses melt the foam covers? What if the covers are not on?
My covers have been off for years....
__________________
Silver WK Club Member #1
2008 CRD QT2
scootr29 is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-04-2014, 05:53 AM   #7
TangoTango
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,132
Several people leave them off, which might be better as you can visually see the problem right away. If they are off and an o-ring goes, you're going to see the diesel leak right away. I'm not sure of thier purpose other than a sound sheld and to hide issues.
TangoTango is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-06-2014, 07:38 AM   #8
Shmigsy
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 36
Update -

I did not have the time this week to attempt to do it myself so let them go ahead.
The big issue is the return line. They cannot read the serial number from the engine (illegible) and there are two different return lines. Anybody know any other method of finding the engine serial number?

The return lines are $275+ a piece but I only need the 6 inches and plastic clamps burned by the blow by. It is sold in its entirety. The mechanic jimmy-rigged a 'very-temporary repair.

Will look for aftermarket or call the wrecking yards ...

They did end up moving the strut tower and box. The entire job cost $290 all in. I will no doubt do it myself next and leave the baffles off.

There was no indication that this was happening; no performance loss, no sound, but I occasionally thought I smelled diesel or something raunch coming in through the vents, but I assumed it up to be the diesel that drips from the elephant tube burning and being blown into the vehicle.

Its still a mess - any recommendations for cleaning this stuff off the engine? Did the best I could with degreaser...
Shmigsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-06-2014, 07:42 AM   #9
Shmigsy
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by TangoTango View Post
that is about what mine looked like, looks way worst than it is, that is just the foam injector shield melted. basically the $3 copper o-ring blew out. -- how many miles on it now?
best to replace ALL the 6 o-rings. I made the mistake of just doing the 1 side and was replacing the other side about 4 weeks later... so I've done it twice now.
I didn't have to remove the wiper cleaner container or the fuse box... or the tires ... LOL

the first day you need to soak it over night maybe 2 nights with injector cleaner. . the injectors then come out by hand... then there is a trick to getting the old o-rings out.
TangoTango - sounds like a good idea. I think the removal had to do with getting at the return line also. Did you replace your return line? A trick?
Shmigsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-06-2014, 07:45 AM   #10
Shmigsy
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by furiousbudy View Post
Did one on my jeep, get an injector puller for the mercedes OM 642 engine, a stretch bold, and the copper seal. The worst part is to clean the mess!
Furiousbudy - what did you clean it with. I want it as clean as possible because of
1. To see if it starts to occur again and not be masked by the old black residue
and
B. OCD

Lol
Shmigsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-06-2014, 09:00 AM   #11
TangoTango
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shmigsy View Post
I did not have the time this week to attempt to do it myself so let them go ahead.
The big issue is the return line. They cannot read the serial number from the engine (illegible) and there are two different return lines. Anybody know any other method of finding the engine serial number?

The return lines are $275+ a piece but I only need the 6 inches and plastic clamps burned by the blow by. It is sold in its entirety. The mechanic jimmy-rigged a 'very-temporary repair.

Will look for aftermarket or call the wrecking yards ...

They did end up moving the strut tower and box. The entire job cost $290 all in. I will no doubt do it myself next and leave the baffles off.

There was no indication that this was happening; no performance loss, no sound, but I occasionally thought I smelled diesel or something raunch coming in through the vents, but I assumed it up to be the diesel that drips from the elephant tube burning and being blown into the vehicle.

Its still a mess - any recommendations for cleaning this stuff off the engine? Did the best I could with degreaser...

It is easiest to clean the mess with the injector cleaner.

There is only (1) return line for the WK, it is the one with the "90", The other return line is for the sprinter motor and does not have the "90" that t-taps into the return line with a clip and will not fit. Too bad as it is way less $$$

The whole return line is $138 retail, the Max-suggested-retail is $275. Sometimes you can buy the return line for $99. (my last one went to Quebec) They are made in poland.
If you use a part of a hose the connector tube needs to be brass, they are really had to find in the right size, I have a few of them.

If you find an engine in a wreching yard let me know, but I have not see even (1) engine being parted out.
TangoTango is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-06-2014, 09:23 AM   #12
TangoTango
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shmigsy View Post
TangoTango - sounds like a good idea. I think the removal had to do with getting at the return line also. Did you replace your return line? A trick?

I replaced the return line also, and had no need to remove all that stuff.

The trick is in cleaning out the injector cylinders, if it's not done the injectors will not come out nicely next time.

The problem is these parts cannot be re-torqued. The o-rings a soft copper metal, and I suspect it will need to be done again in about another some what less than 70k miles so that it's done before it happens.
TangoTango is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-06-2014, 11:17 AM   #13
Shmigsy
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 36
Thanks for that! I will look for it. Ultimately if it ends up being $99 I will replace the whole line, but I am guessing you bought extra brass connectors? do you recall where you bought them?

700000 miles seems ok. The first seal on injector 2 and the entire injector and seal on number 3 went pre-maturely at 55 miles and was replaced under warranty.

I have 185000km (115000 miles) on it now and these are the only problems other than regular wear and tear (tires, brakes, glow plugs) so far (touch wood). The Front brakes where only done at 155000k rear at 130000 - pretty good for a 4500 lb truck I would say!
Shmigsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-08-2014, 11:51 AM   #14
Shmigsy
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by TangoTango View Post
It is easiest to clean the mess with the injector cleaner.

There is only (1) return line for the WK, it is the one with the "90", The other return line is for the sprinter motor and does not have the "90" that t-taps into the return line with a clip and will not fit. Too bad as it is way less $$$

The whole return line is $138 retail, the Max-suggested-retail is $275. Sometimes you can buy the return line for $99. (my last one went to Quebec) They are made in poland.
If you use a part of a hose the connector tube needs to be brass, they are really had to find in the right size, I have a few of them.

If you find an engine in a wreching yard let me know, but I have not see even (1) engine being parted out.

TangoTango where did you see the return line for $138/$99?
Shmigsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-08-2014, 05:47 PM   #15
TangoTango
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,132
the guy from quebec got the last one that was $99 ... the next best deal are the ones that are $133 at FCP

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...ssembly=707957
TangoTango is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.