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Unread 04-08-2012, 06:47 PM   #1
vada9
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I want to help others installing lift kits

This week I finally got all my OME pieces togther and was installing this weekend. I have an 07 WK Limited Hemi QDII. So I started the project, with it being pretty straight forward..I still had my laptop in the garage with the OME instructions and the Full digital FSM...and off course a full stocked tool box and air. So me and my buddy get started with the front...as shown in the instructions. The previous night I had soaked everything in a full can of PB. So we are going along on the drivers front..we get to the bolt that connect the lower control arm to the strut fork. The directions tell you to remove this bolt. Mine like many other was seized. I could get the nut off but could not get the bolt out..tried every method..sprays, 5lb BFH..a little heat..ect. nothing would make it move at all. A metal bolt tightly squeezed in a metal sleeve..down on the road equals corroded and seized. I looked for solutions everywhere..even on here and found nothing. Here's the good part... YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE BOLT THE CONNECTS LOWER CONTROL ARM TO THE STRUT FORK! I fought trying to get the bolt out for 4 hours..then I said screw it I am taking it out without taking the fork out! IT IS POSSIBLE! This is all you have to do. Once you get to the point where the directions say to remove the bolt do this..First turn the steering wheel all the way towards the direction of the side you are working on. Second. Take out all the little plastic clips that hold the ABS wire to the various places..I think there was four. Third. Remove the small screw 8 or 10 mm that hold the break line to the inside fender where the hard line and rubber line meet..this gives you more distance for the line to not stress it. Now take a large socket and a short handle BFH and hit the top or the strut fork..spray it with PB to help. Do this you can get it about half way out, also if you have a buddy have him take a large pry bar from underneath and put it in the gap in the backside of the strut fork..it will open up. Now for getting it the rest of way out. While that same friend is prying..note it does not take that much prying pressure...the other person step on the brake rotor..BAM it will slide right out of the strut fork. This is without pulling hard on the brake lines..make sure you keep wheel turned towards your side for this as well.

Now for reinstalling it is to possible as well. Keep in mind I was installing a OME HD kit with their shocks and struts. Which is as tall as any unless you are doing JBA coils or something. So I assembled the new strut/spring assembly..it is easy as pie with two people. Its very critical heavy lube the inside wall of the strut for and the bottom of the strut. You will need heavy grease..not liquid. I used wheel baring grease and heavy. With again one person under the truck..use a pry bar to spread the back of the strut fork. Then put the top strut cup studs up through the fender in the proper holes. Now you pull the fork forward..you can get the back edge of the strut in the fork. It kind of comes together like a sideways V. Now while you friend prys the rear of the fork push on the strut body hard straight towards the motor..it will pop right in..it will go in about 3/4 of the way..for the rest just use a jack and jack the lower control arm. it will pop the rest of the way in..check to make sure the strut is fully seated in the fork and finish with the directions.

It took me 4 hours to fail with the lower bolt on the drivers side..then I figured this out. On the second side From start taking off the wheel to removing the assembly to building the new assembly to reinstalling it took me 45 min on that side. So a HUGE difference, and super easy. I know I am newish here but I see so many people with this issue on this forum try to cut bolts or buy new 600 bux arms ect. I wanted to share my experince with other so hopefully it can save some pissed off jeepers beating the **** out of their arm bolts. If you have any questions feel free to ask me. Thanks for listening...I know it was long lol..a sticky maybe?

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Unread 04-08-2012, 07:31 PM   #2
kllshadow
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Did u have spring compressors? I just took my uca off turned them out of the way compressed the spring and leaned it right out. I beat the piss out of that lower strut bolt and got nowhere.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 05:49 AM   #3
vada9
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i did have spring compressors for taking apart the old ones ands putting togther the new ones..but I did not use them when removing the assembly as a whole...they are not needed.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 05:57 AM   #4
AJeepZJ
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You don't have to unbolt the strut fork, but it certainly makes assembly easier.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 07:46 AM   #5
sk1er18
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Probably wont work for installing spacers kits due to the extra length.

FWIW I've done this on 3 NorthEast (salt) vehicles now and never had an issue with the lower bolt. I've found that ANY pressure on that bolt makes it impossible to remove so I put spring compressors on the coil first, then take off the 4 nuts and drop the suspension down. With the strut/spring completely loose I've always been able to get the bolt out in a minute or two.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 09:09 AM   #6
OhFiveHemi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kllshadow View Post
Did u have spring compressors? I just took my uca off turned them out of the way compressed the spring and leaned it right out. I beat the piss out of that lower strut bolt and got nowhere.
after i read that post i had to check to see if i was the one who posted it.

me and 2 of my buddys knocked that bolt for a good 6 hours until we figured we should get to pep boys and rent the spring compressor and remove the UCAs.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 11:24 AM   #7
kllshadow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1er18
Probably wont work for installing spacers kits due to the extra length.

FWIW I've done this on 3 NorthEast (salt) vehicles now and never had an issue with the lower bolt. I've found that ANY pressure on that bolt makes it impossible to remove so I put spring compressors on the coil first, then take off the 4 nuts and drop the suspension down. With the strut/spring completely loose I've always been able to get the bolt out in a minute or two.
I put on a rc bb with the the method I mentioned.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 11:42 AM   #8
sk1er18
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Oh I know it can be done by removing the UCA and swinging it out. I don't think it can be done via the original post. When I first installed my RC lift I tried the shortcut mentioned by the OP because the bolt "seemed" stuck.... but it was impossible to get back in, even with some spring compressors on. That's how I found out the fork bolt wasn't really stuck, because when I went back at it the bolt came out a lot easier. From then on I've always used the spring compressors to take all of the load off the fork and have been able to get every bolt out since. But yeah, the added length from the spacers makes it practically impossible to get the strut back in with the fork connected to the LCA (unless you remove the UCA)
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Unread 04-09-2012, 12:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1er18 View Post
Probably wont work for installing spacers kits due to the extra length.

FWIW I've done this on 3 NorthEast (salt) vehicles now and never had an issue with the lower bolt. I've found that ANY pressure on that bolt makes it impossible to remove so I put spring compressors on the coil first, then take off the 4 nuts and drop the suspension down. With the strut/spring completely loose I've always been able to get the bolt out in a minute or two.
^^^This. Best bet is to get the assembly in a "neutral" position so there is zero to as little up or down travel "pressure" on the bolt. Use an air hammer and pound the thing right out. Not all installs will go as well as mine did of course but this is what worked for my OME install. I also had the use of a lift that made a HUGE difference I'm sure.

BTW - to the OP:
I love the idea of this thread as it could be a sort of one-stop-shopping for lift install issues/questions.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 12:28 PM   #10
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Forgot to mention:

Clean all the bolts that come out with a wire brush/bench grinder brush before reassembly and slap some anti-ceaze on everything.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 03:54 PM   #11
vada9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1er18 View Post
Oh I know it can be done by removing the UCA and swinging it out. I don't think it can be done via the original post. When I first installed my RC lift I tried the shortcut mentioned by the OP because the bolt "seemed" stuck.... but it was impossible to get back in, even with some spring compressors on. That's how I found out the fork bolt wasn't really stuck, because when I went back at it the bolt came out a lot easier. From then on I've always used the spring compressors to take all of the load off the fork and have been able to get every bolt out since. But yeah, the added length from the spacers makes it practically impossible to get the strut back in with the fork connected to the LCA (unless you remove the UCA)
You can think it can't be done all you want..but I can tell you it can infact be done that way with no spring compressors. And at that it was very easy. I am not trying to start and arguement about how to do it..just saying it 100% can be done this way with 2 people. I did a lot of reading on here and did not find many solutions to the bolt being stuck..and no one that said it would be done with it in except one person who said he used spring compressors while the assembly was still in the truck. And just FYI i did try putting the compressor on with the assembly in the truck to take tension off the bolt..still the same result.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 04:05 PM   #12
kllshadow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vada9

You can think it can't be done all you want..but I can tell you it can infact be done that way with no spring compressors. And at that it was very easy. I am not trying to start and arguement about how to do it..just saying it 100% can be done this way with 2 people. I did a lot of reading on here and did not find many solutions to the bolt being stuck..and no one that said it would be done with it in except one person who said he used spring compressors while the assembly was still in the truck. And just FYI i did try putting the compressor on with the assembly in the truck to take tension off the bolt..still the same result.
He's talking about useing your method for a spacers lift. That makes the strut assembly 2" longer.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 08:48 PM   #13
sk1er18
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Originally Posted by vada9 View Post
You can think it can't be done all you want..but I can tell you it can infact be done that way with no spring compressors.
With the OME, yes. Like stated above though, with spacers it's a different story. Been there/tried that. The added length of the spacers require either the UCA's be removed or the fork bolt removed.
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Unread 04-10-2012, 04:48 PM   #14
vada9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1er18 View Post
With the OME, yes. Like stated above though, with spacers it's a different story. Been there/tried that. The added length of the spacers require either the UCA's be removed or the fork bolt removed.
Gotca..I was thinking he meant for any lift. that makes sense that it would not work for a budget lift.
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Unread 04-11-2012, 06:31 AM   #15
sunrcr69
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this method works with a budget lift as well, I posted instructions several months ago when someone was having problems with the lower bolt.
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