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Unread 03-21-2009, 06:11 PM   #1
deltaspecops99
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2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: winston-Salem NC
Posts: 35
how to replace spark plugs on a 3.7l v6 WK

I have looked threw the forum and i have not seen anything on changing spark plugs on a WK. Well it was time to change them on my Jeep and i took some pictures and going to attempt to explain how i did it. I am going to try to keep this as noob as possible. oh don't mind my screw driver in under the air box lol i was making a reference point. i am not responsible for any damages. do this at your own risk.

tools that you will need
* a socket wrench and a socket wrench extender ( about 2 standard ones or about 9 inches long
* the socket you need is a 10mm socket and a spark plug socket
* need about 2 flat head screw drivers one long one with a medium head and a medium size one
* a hex (star) driver i forgot the size is pretty big.
* a pair of needle nose pliers
* optional a spark plug spacer checker i don't know what its really called

1. thing you do is you disconnect your battery. (you dont have to but its wise)
just unscrew the negative end of the battery.

2. you have to take off the intake hose that runs to the air box and the air filter box




3. you have to take the air box off the carb and there are 2 hex screws and and clamp you need to take off. make sure you have to o2 sensor unplugged be for removing the air box.





4. once all that is done clean off the area from dirt and dust so it wont get inside the engine block. that would be very catastrophic.

5. take off the nut with the 10 mm socket and pull the tube out of the block. be careful when you pull it out it has O rings around it and if they get damage good luck trying to find replacements for them.



6. once you get it off get your spark plug socket and socket extender and take out the socket down inside the engine block.



7. once the spark plug is out get a clean cloth and wipe around the block to clean the excess dirt and grim that is on it

8. to prep the plug make sure the plug is spaced to the recommended spacing with the spacer tool. you can pick them up for about .25 cents.

9. once that take the plug and stick it into the spark plug socket and then stick the into the block. take the ratchet off the extender and thread the plug backwards to make sure the threads are level and slowly turn the spark plug in the threads. make sure your not cross threading cause if you do you just bought yourself a new engine block.

10. do that for all the plugs.
11. reassemble everything and turn on your car if you get any waring light consult your manual.


if anything is wrong or i forgot to add anything to it please tell me and i will fix it. hope this help the forum. next one im going to do is for the K&N filter setup and installation


deltaspecops99

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Unread 03-21-2009, 06:12 PM   #2
deltaspecops99
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Posts: 35
also look at the link there info on the pictures if the pictures dont show up
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Unread 03-21-2009, 07:11 PM   #3
bull_blaster
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hummm...... I had a post on this site last year when i changed the S.P on my3.7L

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/changing-spark-plugs-3-7l-completed-photos-497771/

nevertheless, awsome job man! what plugs did you go with ? I bet you that last plug on the left all the way in was a bi*ch to get out. took me an hour to hasle is out.
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Unread 03-21-2009, 07:42 PM   #4
deltaspecops99
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oh im sorry im blind lol. um i went with the bosh platinum plugs. and nah I have a snake that can get down into it
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Unread 03-21-2009, 07:50 PM   #5
bull_blaster
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The autozone i went to only had Champions at that time, so i went with champions platinum plugs. Let us know how those Bosch platinums work for you, I heard they're causing some kinda stalling issues on HEMI engines (not 3.7). I'll probably end up getting the orignal NGK on my next change.
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Unread 03-21-2009, 07:55 PM   #6
danniboi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bull_blaster View Post
....... I bet you that last plug on the left all the way in was a bi*ch to get out. took me an hour to hasle is out.
x2 on that. It took me as much time taking off the back plug on the passenger side than it did on the other 5 plus all the assembly and disassembly. With all that room the 3.7 has in front, I'm surprised at why they left that one so far back. I went with NGK Iridium IX and so far it's work out well. Jeep has much more energy
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Unread 03-21-2009, 08:02 PM   #7
deltaspecops99
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the plugs dont stall at all. i cleaned everything up it actually runs 100% better than when i got it
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Unread 03-21-2009, 08:25 PM   #8
bull_blaster
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I think I might get the plugs changed on my 3.7 tomorrow, only had 15K on the champions so far, but i dont like their performance comparing to the orginal NGK. The first 5000 miles on the champions were great, after that, (performace wise), things just started going downhill .


@ dani , I used a 12" socket extention on all the 5 plugs, but that last one, i almost broke the blug from using side twists . had to clean the hole from ceramic shavings ..... found out later that a 10" ext would have done the trick, or a snake would have made life alot easier back then.
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Unread 03-21-2009, 08:30 PM   #9
deltaspecops99
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haha yeah snakes are good in the auto shop. i saw at lowes hardware kobalt is selling a kit with snakes and extenders. did you replace your o2 sensor when you changed your plugs?
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Unread 03-21-2009, 09:04 PM   #10
Floof
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Click free! Going to add it to the FAQ, as well. Good write-up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by deltaspecops99 View Post
I have looked threw the forum and i have not seen anything on changing spark plugs on a WK. Well it was time to change them on my Jeep and i took some pictures and going to attempt to explain how i did it. I am going to try to keep this as noob as possible. oh don't mind my screw driver in under the air box lol i was making a reference point. i am not responsible for any damages. do this at your own risk.

tools that you will need
* a socket wrench and a socket wrench extender ( about 2 standard ones or about 9 inches long
* the socket you need is a 10mm socket and a spark plug socket
* need about 2 flat head screw drivers one long one with a medium head and a medium size one
* a hex (star) driver i forgot the size is pretty big.
* a pair of needle nose pliers
* optional a spark plug spacer checker i don't know what its really called

1. thing you do is you disconnect your battery. (you dont have to but its wise)
just unscrew the negative end of the battery.

2. you have to take off the intake hose that runs to the air box and the air filter box




3. you have to take the air box off the carb and there are 2 hex screws and and clamp you need to take off. make sure you have to o2 sensor unplugged be for removing the air box.





4. once all that is done clean off the area from dirt and dust so it wont get inside the engine block. that would be very catastrophic.

5. take off the nut with the 10 mm socket and pull the tube out of the block. be careful when you pull it out it has O rings around it and if they get damage good luck trying to find replacements for them.



6. once you get it off get your spark plug socket and socket extender and take out the socket down inside the engine block.



7. once the spark plug is out get a clean cloth and wipe around the block to clean the excess dirt and grim that is on it

8. to prep the plug make sure the plug is spaced to the recommended spacing with the spacer tool. you can pick them up for about .25 cents.

9. once that take the plug and stick it into the spark plug socket and then stick the into the block. take the ratchet off the extender and thread the plug backwards to make sure the threads are level and slowly turn the spark plug in the threads. make sure your not cross threading cause if you do you just bought yourself a new engine block.

10. do that for all the plugs.
11. reassemble everything and turn on your car if you get any waring light consult your manual.


if anything is wrong or i forgot to add anything to it please tell me and i will fix it. hope this help the forum. next one im going to do is for the K&N filter setup and installation


deltaspecops99
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Unread 03-21-2009, 09:15 PM   #11
deltaspecops99
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wow i feel special now lol thanks floof
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Unread 07-17-2009, 09:48 AM   #12
08WKJGC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bull_blaster View Post
I think I might get the plugs changed on my 3.7 tomorrow, only had 15K on the champions so far, but i dont like their performance comparing to the orginal NGK. The first 5000 miles on the champions were great, after that, (performace wise), things just started going downhill .


@ dani , I used a 12" socket extention on all the 5 plugs, but that last one, i almost broke the blug from using side twists . had to clean the hole from ceramic shavings ..... found out later that a 10" ext would have done the trick, or a snake would have made life alot easier back then.
What is this snake i keep hearing about? Can somebody explain what it is and where you can get one? Sounds like it makes the job alot easier.
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Unread 07-26-2009, 06:34 PM   #13
08WKJGC
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Anybody?? I am going to attempt to change mine tomorrow. I would like to know what a "snake" is and if it makes things any easier on changing the plugs. I also have a variety of extensions including a 10".
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Unread 07-27-2009, 09:28 AM   #14
bull_blaster
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A flexible extension is sometimes called a snake

http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/145/14548_300.jpg

you should be fine with a flex socket and a 10 5nch ext. just watch out for the last plug. Good luck!
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Unread 07-27-2009, 09:33 AM   #15
08WKJGC
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just finished. I started with the last plug on the left because it was the hardest. I tried using the 10" ext on this one but i was hitting the cowel with the socket. I used an 8" ext. and unbolted the transmission oil check from the intake and i was able to get it out. Man does chrysler put those plugs in tight! Replaced with the Boch Platnums and seems to run good.
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