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Unread 10-02-2014, 09:28 PM   #1
DeChache
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How To: Front LCA

I will start by saying this is just how I did this on the wife's Jeep. If I missed any big steps or a step is unclear just let me know and I will fill in the gaps.

It should be noted that you WILL need an alignment after doing this.

You should be able to do this with a metric socket set that goes up to 24 MM and 35MM for the axle nut.

18, 19, 21, 24 sound right but it has been a few months since I did the job so I'm not completely sure.

An Impact is handy but you can do this with a breaker bar. You will need a torque wrench that can go up to 175 FT/LBs for the axle nut.

I am going to start after Jacking up placing jack stands and removing the wheel.




Remove the Caliper



One you got the two bolts out of the caliper Hang it out of the way.



Then remove the rotor and set it to the side.

Remove the Axle nut.



Remove the bolt on the upper ball joint



Remove the bolt on the lower ball joint.



The tie rod





Then you should be able to remove the large metal piece that holds the bearing assembly. I used a block of wood and a hammer to tap on the ball joint bolts and the tie rod. Didn't take much force.



Next is the notorious clevis bolt. I ended up having to cut this bolt and replace if you live somewhere where they salt the roads I would just plan on replacing it.



Once you win the war with the clevis bolt you are ready to remove control arm.

There are two rear bolts and one forward. I took a black paint marker and marked the location of the two rear bolts on the frame before removing it so I could get it back close enough to drive it to the shop for the alignment.



For some reason I didn't take a picture of the front bolt. But you cant miss it. It has a index on it to hold the nut but it is really long it will come out eventually.

I spent two days fighting with the clevis bolt and didn't take pictures of the re-assembly but just reverse the process.

Torques as I remember them.

Upper and lower ball joints. 65 Ft/lbs
Tie Rod 65 Ft/lbs
Axle Nut 175 Ft/lbs
Rear Control Arm Bolts 105 Ft/lbs
Front Control Arm Bolt 125 Ft/lbs

But proof that I got it done. Let me know if anything is unclear I can always run out and take more pictures.



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Unread 10-02-2014, 09:39 PM   #2
JeepN4KC
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Nice and thorough.

Post a link to this thread in the diy sticky.
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Unread 10-02-2014, 11:07 PM   #3
Mitkch
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Thanks mate! I appreciate it!
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Unread 10-17-2014, 09:56 AM   #4
CRAMMER
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To the OP, did you replace the UCA, stabilizer bar and tie rods while you were changing out the LCA?
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Unread 10-17-2014, 01:15 PM   #5
DeChache
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAMMER View Post
To the OP, did you replace the UCA, stabilizer bar and tie rods while you were changing out the LCA?
No I did not. The upper arms still looked pretty good. Though thinking about it I kinda wish I would have done it all at once. Since it was all apart. The strut will have to come out when the UCAs are replaced.

I replaced the Struts and the LCAs
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Unread 11-07-2014, 01:25 PM   #6
Hendrix9
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I keep finding conflicting information about the 35mm axle nut torque spec. where did you get that 175 ft-lbs from? I keep seeing either 100 or 185. Kind of a big difference. I'm having mine aligned right now and I torque it to 135ft-lbs for now. Figured I'd revisit after it was aligned up nicey nice. 100 seems way to low to me. I'm thinking I'll shoot in the 175 range like you did.

I just finished replacing all the bushings in the LCAs and the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar end links. Should ride 100x better now. My bushings were toasted. I think my upper ball joints aren't doing so hot, but I'll get to those in a few weeks after I recover from this pain in the ***. My clevis to LCA bolts were frozen like I already knew, but the passenger LCA to frame on the front had to be cut off too. That one was a pain. I had to use a 7" cut off wheel (in my 4.5" grinder.. talk about dangerous...) I tried the sawzall and went through about 9 blades and gave up.
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Unread 11-08-2014, 01:08 PM   #7
DeChache
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix9 View Post
I keep finding conflicting information about the 35mm axle nut torque spec. where did you get that 175 ft-lbs from? I keep seeing either 100 or 185. Kind of a big difference. I'm having mine aligned right now and I torque it to 135ft-lbs for now. Figured I'd revisit after it was aligned up nicey nice. 100 seems way to low to me. I'm thinking I'll shoot in the 175 range like you did.

I just finished replacing all the bushings in the LCAs and the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar end links. Should ride 100x better now. My bushings were toasted. I think my upper ball joints aren't doing so hot, but I'll get to those in a few weeks after I recover from this pain in the ***. My clevis to LCA bolts were frozen like I already knew, but the passenger LCA to frame on the front had to be cut off too. That one was a pain. I had to use a 7" cut off wheel (in my 4.5" grinder.. talk about dangerous...) I tried the sawzall and went through about 9 blades and gave up.


I had the same fun started with the Sawzall and that didn't work the cutting disk on the grinder did the trick.

To be honest right now I can't find where I got 175 lb/ft. I will saw at a 100 lb/ft the hubs would make noise like something was loose.

I know my WJ is 175 and I've always done axle nuts at least that tight. Its been 10,000 miles or so and no problems.
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Unread 11-10-2014, 09:28 AM   #8
tfirme
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replace,LCA, Lower Control Arm, WK Grand Cherokee 2008 4x4,

hello guys.
Look how I replace the lower control arm.

Easy, Fast and dismount few things.

What do you think?

1.jpg   2.jpg   3.jpg   4.jpg  
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Unread 11-10-2014, 11:09 AM   #9
Hendrix9
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I thought that'd be possible. With the trouble I had cutting out seized bolts I was glad I had all the room I had by removing the hub assembly though. Cool to see someone do it that way.
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Unread 11-10-2014, 04:09 PM   #10
tfirme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix9 View Post
I thought that'd be possible. With the trouble I had cutting out seized bolts I was glad I had all the room I had by removing the hub assembly though. Cool to see someone do it that way.
was quite easy to remove lower control arm.
I changed two bushings.
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Unread 11-10-2014, 06:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfirme View Post
hello guys.
Look how I replace the lower control arm.

Easy, Fast and dismount few things.

What do you think?

If you can get that clevis bolt out easy then thats the way to do it.

Most people have TONS of trouble with that bolt however, as they rust easily.
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Unread 11-10-2014, 08:29 PM   #12
DeChache
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix9 View Post
I thought that'd be possible. With the trouble I had cutting out seized bolts I was glad I had all the room I had by removing the hub assembly though. Cool to see someone do it that way.
I started out with that method but with having to cut the clevis bolt out it was never going to work.

I also changed the struts at the same time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyse7ens View Post
If you can get that clevis bolt out easy then thats the way to do it.

Most people have TONS of trouble with that bolt however, as they rust easily.
Yep the 4" grinder doesn't fit with the hub on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tfirme View Post
was quite easy to remove lower control arm.
I changed two bushings.

I don't what was worse getting the clevis bolt out or the bushing.... damn rust.

Living in the salt belt sucks when it comes to working on your cars.
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Unread 01-24-2015, 04:10 PM   #13
scootter82
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I might give it a go tomorrow. Really need to get the new ones off my garage floor and into my jeep. Hopefully the clevis bolt goes willingly!
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