How To Change Front Struts and Rear shock on a 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 - Page 3 -

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post #31 of 115 Old 02-22-2013, 07:24 AM
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Excellent write up.

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post #32 of 115 Old 04-08-2013, 05:08 AM
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Strut install method for seized lower clevis bolt

Thanks to Wookiee and sammy29926 for the effort to complete the tutorials! BUT, as BLEEDNJEEP has mentioned several times on the forum, many (if not most) of us will have a difficult time removing the lower clevis bolt from the fork/control arm. My bolts were completely seized in the bushings and no matter what I did they refused to budge. I tried everything short of heat and refrained because I didn’t want to remove the control arm to press in another bushing.

If you cannot remove the lower clevis bolt there is another option. I replaced my front struts leaving both bolts in the arms. I removed the upper clevis bolt and separated it from the strut while on the car. Short of cutting or burning things off the Jeep this may be the last resort for some of you like me.

I didn’t take pics as I completed the install but I will explain it here AS A SUPPLEMENT TO Sammy and wookiee.

1. Leave top strut mount bolts in place, these will be removed last. Loosen them all just a little.

2. Remove brake caliper and rest it aside.

3. Install spring compressors on the spring/strut while it is still attached to the vehicle as noted in Wookiee’s thread. This is the key as it shortens the strut assembly by at least an inch or two. You can use a second floor jack to slowly raise the knuckle/strut to compress the spring. While slowly raising second jack, you can hand tighten the spring compressors. So, raise a little, hand tighten….rinse repeat. You have to get creative where you put the compressors. You may be able to use the 9 and 3 o’clock positions…or like me you have to use 8 and 4 o’clock instead due to space limitations. After tightening as much as I could without making metal to metal contact with the compressors/body parts, I removed the jack from the arm and let the assembly droop. I then made a few additional turns on each compressor bolt to ensure I had sufficient room. Space is limited, but be patient and careful. It works.

4. Follow the same item removal steps as outlined by Sammy above.

5. In addition to what Sammy removes, loosed the axle nut (I used air tools so you may need to loosen this bolt first with wheels on the ground). When vehicle is off the ground only leave a few threads on the nut/bolt to allow the axle shaft to knuckle assembly to pivot out further.

6. Remove bolt from tie rod and knock out the joint using the same process as the upper ball joint.

7. Remove just the nut from the lower clevis bolt, use a lubricant such as PB blaster or anti seize on the threads to ease removal.

8. Remove the lower sway bar link bolt from the control arm.

9. Spray a bit of lubricant at the joint of the upper clevis fork and the strut body. Let it run through for a few seconds to make removal easier.

At this point you can firmly press down on the lower control arm and the strut will pop out of the upper part of the clevis/fork bracket. Simply loosen the top bolts and remove the strut assembly with the spring compressors already applied. LEAVE THE COMPRESSORS ON THE SPRING UNTIL AFTER THE NEW SPRING/STRUT HAS BEEN RE-INSTALLED.

When re –installing, put the strut top into the upper mounting holes first using 2 bolts. Take a screw driver and wedge it in the upper part of the fork mount still attached to the Jeep, this will every so slightly widen the gap and make sliding the strut back in easier. Once the tab from the bottom of the strut is in the gap use the floor jack to slowly raise the lower control arm up while centering the strut in the opening with the other hand. It will pop right in. Use the jack to seat it in the bracket.

I hope this all make sense as I am writing this very early in the morning. I was able to do one side in about 30-45 minutes with this method. This is after fighting with the other side for several hours before figuring this all out.

2008 CRD GC
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post #33 of 115 Old 04-16-2013, 11:10 PM
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Installing new struts book marking in case we have trouble.
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post #34 of 115 Old 04-29-2013, 02:58 PM
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Thanks for the write up. I will be doing this soon and glad I have this information first!

1950 Willys CJ3A, all stock.

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post #35 of 115 Old 04-29-2013, 05:35 PM
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Thanks as well. Found out today my front passenger strut is leaking. Will have to do this soon.

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post #36 of 115 Old 06-14-2013, 02:54 PM
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How long does PB blaster usually take effect in? Im replacing my rear shocks with MLL's (f150) version and the top and bottom bolts are stuck solid. Sprayed twice so far just curious as to how long I should wait before attempting to loosen again

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post #37 of 115 Old 09-03-2013, 09:04 PM
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Between sammy29926, Wookiee and johnniebravo, this was a great post and I look forward to referring to it this weekend when I get my jeep ready for the new lift.
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post #38 of 115 Old 11-02-2013, 10:07 PM
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I need to do this on my wife's 08. Was wanting to know what are some some shocks/struts to use? A good alternative, afraid to see how much the bilsteins are.

Mine: 97, auto, 4" lift, locked 33s
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post #39 of 115 Old 11-06-2013, 03:41 PM
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The bilsteins aren't really that expensive. You have to shop around to find the best price. I think I paid somewhere in the $300 range for mine. Well worth it, they are some of the best shock/struts on the market and will last a LONG time.

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post #40 of 115 Old 11-10-2013, 10:18 AM
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Has anyone also replaced the mounts when doing the front struts? It seems to be mixed options when it comes to replacing them and i figured if I am going to do the work to replace the strut may as well replace the mounts. Thoughts?

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2007 Limited 3.0
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post #41 of 115 Old 11-10-2013, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by NotChris View Post
Has anyone also replaced the mounts when doing the front struts? It seems to be mixed options when it comes to replacing them and i figured if I am going to do the work to replace the strut may as well replace the mounts. Thoughts?
Not really any reason to unless the current mounts are defective or rusted badly.


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post #42 of 115 Old 11-10-2013, 06:49 PM
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Thanks for a right up. Doing my 2in OME lift tomorrow. This will help


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post #43 of 115 Old 11-11-2013, 10:45 AM
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I was really lucky that both my clevis bolts came off very easy. Also quite surprised how cheap the stock struts seemed compared to the OME's I installed.
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post #44 of 115 Old 11-18-2013, 08:07 PM
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I ordered a daystar 2in for the wifes commander and I have new rancho shocks and struts on the way for my 05 wk. I'm figuring ill try mixtures of all the techniques I have seen depending on how much of a pain it turns out to be!! Thanks for all the info
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post #45 of 115 Old 11-19-2013, 06:02 AM
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To those considering Bilsteins, the cost is well worth it. The ones I put on my 98ZJ are still good. Installed in 2002, at 48,000 miles current mileage is 148,000.

2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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bilstein , bushing , clevis , seized

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