How To Change Front Struts and Rear shock on a 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WK Grand Cherokee & XK Commander Forum > How To Change Front Struts and Rear shock on a 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7

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Unread 12-01-2011, 10:12 AM   #16
superbuick
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Gerat writeup - very useful. Thank You!

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Unread 12-02-2011, 06:23 AM   #17
NewAlbanyWJ
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Is a puller needed to seperate the upper control arm ball joint fron the spindle? I'm getting ready to tackle this job soon, but I don't have a puller.
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Unread 12-02-2011, 05:24 PM   #18
BLEEDNJEEP
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I wouldn't use a puller, you'll rip the boot on the balljoint if you are reusing. Just undo the nut 3/4 way (leave nut on so spindle won't fall completely down) and tap the side of the spindle with a hammer. The weight and tap will easily break the mechanical weld and it will drop.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 05:28 PM   #19
2005WK
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Anyone have a problem getting the lower strut clevis (fork) bolt out of the lower control arm? I removed the drivers side Ok, but the passenger side is giving me fits. I got the nut off without a problem, but the bolt will not come out of the control arm/strut fork bracket. It's as though the bolt is pressed into the bracket (not the control arm) and will not separate. It seems to be hung up at the bolt-head end of the bracket. I'm hesitant to use heat because of the rubber in the control arm. Any suggestions?
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Unread 12-19-2011, 05:30 PM   #20
skrach77
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When I did mine, I had the same trouble. I took a floor jack and relieved the weight on the system, but not lifting the arm either- then gave it a good smack with a hammer and it came out
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Unread 12-19-2011, 06:11 PM   #21
sunrcr69
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Is that a 2wd or was the front axle has ben taken out?
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:24 PM   #22
BLEEDNJEEP
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I would check out here -

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/lift-day-1157104/

if you are looking for the real world of removing these struts. This thread here is nice start (of the way it should go) if everything goes perfect, however reality is more like the 90% of us that had issues. The LCA on my drivers took 15 minutes and my passenger side took 1.5 hours. I put aside one night to just get these two bolts loose knowing there was going to be an issue!

BY THE WAY, FOR ALL FUTURE READERS, YOU CAN BREAK THESE BOLTS LOOSE THE DAY YOU ORDER THE KIT! DO NOT WAIT TILL IT ARRIVES. GET THEM TAPPED OUT AND ANTI-SEIZED, THEN WHEN YOUR KIT COMES THIS WILL ONE LESS THING TO WORRY ABOUT

No offense to this thread, but it is a really good chance your lift is going to have some hiccups. For some people like Cmmdr Dan it took weeks!

The issue is that the bolt actually rusts itself inside the rubber and is stuck. To compound the issue, the rubber bounces with each hammer hit, laughing at you with each blow. Here is what I wrote at the time I did mine. I would steer clear of heat, you will melt the rubber bushing making things worse. Be patient, it will come out. I would read all 14 pages above before proceeding!

Here is my LCA pics and resolution-

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/o...s-way-1175893/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/l...oblem-1177079/

All I can say is spray it with WD40, keep turning it with a rachet or impact and keep beating it left and right. It will come out, I promise!
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:36 PM   #23
t3kmitch
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This is more of a dumb in general question.. but how long does it take for a bolt to get difficult to remove? If you install a lift, and then then 6 months later you go back to replace struts, could you expect a fairly easy time or will it be just as difficult? (Assume no anti-seize was used)
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:54 PM   #24
mattydipps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t3kmitch View Post
This is more of a dumb in general question.. but how long does it take for a bolt to get difficult to remove? If you install a lift, and then then 6 months later you go back to replace struts, could you expect a fairly easy time or will it be just as difficult? (Assume no anti-seize was used)
that depends on the driving condictions, if your playing around in puddles of mud and rain water on a constant basis and not washing it off afterwards, then after 6 months i would say your gonna be a little stuck .... not as stuck as a couple years but still a little snug ....that lower strut mounting bolt is going to be a b****... what struts you throwing in ?
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Unread 12-19-2011, 09:10 PM   #25
t3kmitch
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Probably going to go Bilsteins eventually, they're not too expensive through Kolak. Was possibly going to be my xmas present to me, still haven't decided.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 09:53 PM   #26
mattydipps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t3kmitch View Post
Probably going to go Bilsteins eventually, they're not too expensive through Kolak. Was possibly going to be my xmas present to me, still haven't decided.
i was going to buy one big item for my self this christmas but i feel i got alot more with a few smaller things lol

belsteins are nice struts tho if you can splurdge a little bit id go for em. i plan on throwing a spacer up front with some bilsteins and throwing some load levelers in the back to hopefully bring it up a little bit more..
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Unread 12-20-2011, 05:00 PM   #27
2005WK
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Thanks for the tips guys. Got it finished up and back on the road. The Bilsteins sure do ride better than what was on their before.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 10:19 PM   #28
Schwo
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Awesome thread! I've been looking for the torque numbers and this is perfect.
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Unread 01-12-2013, 09:18 AM   #29
torquey
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Thanks for the write up and the pictures. Its appreciated.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 07:34 AM   #30
tim0220
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Great Info!

Sammy, Thanks for your detailed information. This is killer and really clears things up. About to install some new KYB's on my jeep and would hate to bring it to the dealer to do it. Thanks for the GREAT POST!
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bilstein , bushing , clevis , seized

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