HID Kit will turn on but not off - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-17-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
Bangarng
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HID Kit will turn on but not off

I just installed a Xenon Depot HID Kit for my 2010 GC 5.7. If I turn the lights on (manual mode) they turn on just fine but will not turn off (manually). They will stay on until I turn the car off.

If I have my lights in Automatic Mode they will turn on as soon as I start the car.

Any thoughts? Thanks!

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2010 5.7 - 4" BWoody, BT Catch Can, Flowmaster 50, SC 3872, F&R SRT8 Sways, WK Eibach & Bilstein's.
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-17-2017, 06:22 PM
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I am assuming you have them hooked up with a relay? There is not enough load on the system to completely de-energize the headlight circuit. You'll need an inline resistor for both the left and right headlight, such as the 9006 version of these:

http://a.co/izPeKku

2007 Black Grand Cherokee
Hemi - QDII - OME - S4XC Hidden Winch Mount -Talon 9.5SR - Full Matrix - 265/70/17 Duratrac's - Pintlers- Superchips - Magnaflow - Airaid - 5000k HIDs - Lightforce HID's - 4xG Front Guard - 4XG Diff Cover
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-18-2017, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pac Man View Post
I am assuming you have them hooked up with a relay? There is not enough load on the system to completely de-energize the headlight circuit. You'll need an inline resistor for both the left and right headlight, such as the 9006 version of these:

http://a.co/izPeKku
I do! Man I'd hate for this to be the fix because there are already three boxes to mount for each HID. I'm wondering if the polarity is backwards on the relays. I am going to switch them and see what happens before I start buying more parts.

Here is the kit that I bought: http://www.xenondepot.com/9006-HID-K...-p/xt-9006.htm

2010 5.7 - 4" BWoody, BT Catch Can, Flowmaster 50, SC 3872, F&R SRT8 Sways, WK Eibach & Bilstein's.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-18-2017, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangarng View Post
I do! Man I'd hate for this to be the fix because there are already three boxes to mount for each HID. I'm wondering if the polarity is backwards on the relays. I am going to switch them and see what happens before I start buying more parts.

Here is the kit that I bought: http://www.xenondepot.com/9006-HID-K...-p/xt-9006.htm
These inline resistors are only $10... not a big deal price wise. They will also prevent stored trouble codes for "left and right headlight circuit low".

I am speaking from experience. It took me months to figure the same issue out.

2007 Black Grand Cherokee
Hemi - QDII - OME - S4XC Hidden Winch Mount -Talon 9.5SR - Full Matrix - 265/70/17 Duratrac's - Pintlers- Superchips - Magnaflow - Airaid - 5000k HIDs - Lightforce HID's - 4xG Front Guard - 4XG Diff Cover
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-18-2017, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pac Man View Post
These inline resistors are only $10... not a big deal price wise. They will also prevent stored trouble codes for "left and right headlight circuit low".

I am speaking from experience. It took me months to figure the same issue out.
Thanks buddy.

To update my initial post, the lights do not turn on immediately in automatic mode. If I start the car BEFORE the headlights turn off (safety feature when unlocking car) they will stay on in manual or auto until I turn off the car, but if I wait for them to turn off, then start the car, they stay off.

2010 5.7 - 4" BWoody, BT Catch Can, Flowmaster 50, SC 3872, F&R SRT8 Sways, WK Eibach & Bilstein's.
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-19-2017, 05:12 PM
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I did LED headlights on mine and had to add some relay pertaining to the CANBUS so the lights would turn al the way off

2007 Jeep Commander Overland 4x4 5.7 HEMI
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-20-2017, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CommanderBob View Post
I did LED headlights on mine and had to add some relay pertaining to the CANBUS so the lights would turn al the way off
Well LED "bulbs" I would not recommend. I won't get into that for this thread b/c it'll clutter it up. I've posted a lot about them and how they're no good for light output or other drivers on the road.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangarng View Post
Pic for attention
Now OP - I know you linked the relay harness you used. The Jeep WK uses a PWM electrical system for the headlights (NOT Canbus like people say). That means you will need an in-line capacitor with your relay harness. I haven't actually heard of anyone having the issue you're having...


Question: Are these those 9006 headlights I see on eBay?? People have asked me about them but I have never talked to someone with them. They're still halogen headlights... I would recommend swapping back to halogen bulbs in these projectors. The reflective coating on the projector isn't designed for an HID bulb and it will, over time, burn the bowl and cause peeling. That will not only reduce your output but it is a potential fire hazard.

Check My Threads For These Builds:
WK LED Headlight Quad Retrofit
WK Morimoto LED Foglights
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-20-2017, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08zombie View Post
Question: Are these those 9006 headlights I see on eBay?? People have asked me about them but I have never talked to someone with them. They're still halogen headlights... I would recommend swapping back to halogen bulbs in these projectors. The reflective coating on the projector isn't designed for an HID bulb and it will, over time, burn the bowl and cause peeling. That will not only reduce your output but it is a potential fire hazard.
+1 on the halogen recommendation.

If those lights use 9006 (low beam) and 9005 (high beam) bulbs, the best light you'll get from them is with the "HIR upgrade" bulbs. GM makes some really good bulbs for that upgrade. The low beams are GM Part # 23342527. The high beams have two part #'s in the GM channels, 25770739 (Toshiba, made in China, had quality issues for a while, but seems to be sorted out now) and 15094219 (Vosla, made in Germany). Use the Genuine GM part or the AC Delco "Original Equipment" part only. You'll need some minor mods to the base of the bulbs. See http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for a description of the mods and diagrams showing what to remove.

Those bulbs have the same filament geometry as the stock bulbs, with about twice the light output. They won't generate any more glare than the stock bulbs (unlike "HID retrofits), you'll see better, you won't annoy other traffic, and they will work with your existing wiring and lamp assemblies with no risk of heat damage.

Oh, and the bulbs for that are available from RockAuto.com at good prices. All four bulbs plus shipping is about $50 +/-. Let me know if you need a discount code for RockAuto for an extra 5% off.

I'm not arguing, I'm just explaining why my position is correct.
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-20-2017, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangarng View Post
Thanks buddy.

To update my initial post, the lights do not turn on immediately in automatic mode. If I start the car BEFORE the headlights turn off (safety feature when unlocking car) they will stay on in manual or auto until I turn off the car, but if I wait for them to turn off, then start the car, they stay off.
Yes, it's all a function of the headlight circuit not having a load on it. When you do install the inline resistors, don't be surprised when you turn your headlights off and the HIDs still take 2-3 seconds to turn off. This is just the residual electricity in the circuit fading away before the relay de-energizes and cuts power to the HID ballasts.

2007 Black Grand Cherokee
Hemi - QDII - OME - S4XC Hidden Winch Mount -Talon 9.5SR - Full Matrix - 265/70/17 Duratrac's - Pintlers- Superchips - Magnaflow - Airaid - 5000k HIDs - Lightforce HID's - 4xG Front Guard - 4XG Diff Cover
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-21-2017, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08zombie View Post
Well LED "bulbs" I would not recommend. I won't get into that for this thread b/c it'll clutter it up. I've posted a lot about them and how they're no good for light output or other drivers on the road.
I've looked at mine from an oncoming car and they are fine. And white and bright, but not a hazard. And they about 1000% better from behind the wheel. I'll keep them, thanks.

2007 Jeep Commander Overland 4x4 5.7 HEMI
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-26-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
Bangarng
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08zombie View Post
Now OP - I know you linked the relay harness you used. The Jeep WK uses a PWM electrical system for the headlights (NOT Canbus like people say). That means you will need an in-line capacitor with your relay harness. I haven't actually heard of anyone having the issue you're having...

Question: Are these those 9006 headlights I see on eBay?? People have asked me about them but I have never talked to someone with them. They're still halogen headlights... I would recommend swapping back to halogen bulbs in these projectors. The reflective coating on the projector isn't designed for an HID bulb and it will, over time, burn the bowl and cause peeling. That will not only reduce your output but it is a potential fire hazard.
Where do I get an in-line capacitor? Is it the same that Pac-Man posted? His says it's for LED though.

I went with the Spyder brand headlights from New Egg (goo.gl/449gJ1). They are the halo projects but the HID kit is 35w; cooler than a standard 55w halogen bulb so I don't see why they would melt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer-X View Post
+1 on the halogen recommendation.

If those lights use 9006 (low beam) and 9005 (high beam) bulbs, the best light you'll get from them is with the "HIR upgrade" bulbs. GM makes some really good bulbs for that upgrade. The low beams are GM Part # 23342527. The high beams have two part #'s in the GM channels, 25770739 (Toshiba, made in China, had quality issues for a while, but seems to be sorted out now) and 15094219 (Vosla, made in Germany). Use the Genuine GM part or the AC Delco "Original Equipment" part only. You'll need some minor mods to the base of the bulbs. See http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for a description of the mods and diagrams showing what to remove.

Those bulbs have the same filament geometry as the stock bulbs, with about twice the light output. They won't generate any more glare than the stock bulbs (unlike "HID retrofits), you'll see better, you won't annoy other traffic, and they will work with your existing wiring and lamp assemblies with no risk of heat damage.

Oh, and the bulbs for that are available from RockAuto.com at good prices. All four bulbs plus shipping is about $50 +/-. Let me know if you need a discount code for RockAuto for an extra 5% off.
Thanks. I am going to stick with the Retrofit HID kit for now because it wasn't cheap and they look awesome! I noticed it doesn't cut off as sharp as a real HID set-up, and they blind be slightly when I stand in front of the car, so I'm going to adjust them down a bit and roll with that until my car catches on fire LOL

2010 5.7 - 4" BWoody, BT Catch Can, Flowmaster 50, SC 3872, F&R SRT8 Sways, WK Eibach & Bilstein's.
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-27-2017, 05:44 AM
08zombie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangarng View Post
Where do I get an in-line capacitor? Is it the same that Pac-Man posted? His says it's for LED though.

I went with the Spyder brand headlights from New Egg (goo.gl/449gJ1). They are the halo projects but the HID kit is 35w; cooler than a standard 55w halogen bulb so I don't see why they would melt.

Thanks. I am going to stick with the Retrofit HID kit for now because it wasn't cheap and they look awesome! I noticed it doesn't cut off as sharp as a real HID set-up, and they blind be slightly when I stand in front of the car, so I'm going to adjust them down a bit and roll with that until my car catches on fire LOL
Totally understand them being expensive! I wasn't trying to down your WK at all. The projectors inside aren't made for HID bulbs that's why they have a potential to peel & burn. The wattage doesn't really matter for this purpose because the HID bulbs emit UV light. That's what could potentially mess up the reflective bowls.

I just was throwing out the warning and potentially to others.

The inline capacitor I used was this one:
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/capacitor-link.html

but I also used a harness from TRS. I'm not totally sure if it'll plug into (or even work with) the harness you bought.

At least you didn't put HID's in reflector housings! And for that I thank you!

Check My Threads For These Builds:
WK LED Headlight Quad Retrofit
WK Morimoto LED Foglights
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-27-2017, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 08zombie View Post
Totally understand them being expensive! I wasn't trying to down your WK at all. The projectors inside aren't made for HID bulbs that's why they have a potential to peel & burn. The wattage doesn't really matter for this purpose because the HID bulbs emit UV light. That's what could potentially mess up the reflective bowls.

I just was throwing out the warning and potentially to others.

At least you didn't put HID's in reflector housings! And for that I thank you!
No offense taken! I know I'm THAT guy now, but yes I did at least get projector housings. I didn't quite get what the D1 HIDs/housing was all about when you initially told me, but if I could go back I would have done it that way.

2010 5.7 - 4" BWoody, BT Catch Can, Flowmaster 50, SC 3872, F&R SRT8 Sways, WK Eibach & Bilstein's.
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-28-2017, 07:53 AM
08zombie
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Originally Posted by Bangarng View Post
No offense taken! I know I'm that guy know, but yes I did at least get projector housings. I didn't quite get what the D1s HIDs/housing was all about when you initially told me, but if I could go back I would have done it that way.
Well in the future if you get tired of your lights the good news is that they should be easy to open and work on . Always an option later on down the road if you want to upgrade projectors or add another to the high beam bucket.

I say enjoy what you've got now though (once you get it working right). The halogen projector headlights you bought seem to be a great option for those with halogens who want the look of the HID.

Check My Threads For These Builds:
WK LED Headlight Quad Retrofit
WK Morimoto LED Foglights
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-28-2017, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangarng View Post
Where do I get an in-line capacitor? Is it the same that Pac-Man posted? His says it's for LED though.

I went with the Spyder brand headlights from New Egg (goo.gl/449gJ1). They are the halo projects but the HID kit is 35w; cooler than a standard 55w halogen bulb so I don't see why they would melt.
Yes, get the ones I posted. They are resistors, not capacitors... they mimic a load on the system. Make sure any HID kit is hooked up via a relay.

2007 Black Grand Cherokee
Hemi - QDII - OME - S4XC Hidden Winch Mount -Talon 9.5SR - Full Matrix - 265/70/17 Duratrac's - Pintlers- Superchips - Magnaflow - Airaid - 5000k HIDs - Lightforce HID's - 4xG Front Guard - 4XG Diff Cover
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