What everyone else said....get a new battery. These things are very sensitive to battery issues, and can cause you all kinds of grief if the battery is not in top notch condition. If you're into vehicle maintenance, you may want to do (or have done) a couple checks first. The only ways I know of to accurately access the true health of a battery is with a load tester (battery must be fully charged first) AND a conductance tester (battery does not need to be fully charged). These tests really go hand in hand in accessing the condition of the battery. The load test obviously checks the battery's ability to handle a heavy load and the conductance test is a measurement of the battery's ability to produce current. Conductance is a measure of the plate surface available in the battery, which determines how much power the battery is capable of supplying. As a battery ages, the plate surfaces sulfate and shed material which adversely affects its ability to produce current. The conductance tester will also detect cell defects, shorts and open circuits which will reduce the battery's ability to provide enough current. I do conductance tests on all my vehicle batteries at every oil change, and load tests only if the conductance test is marginal. Each of these tests takes only about 10-15 seconds to do, if you have the testers available.
06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, K&N Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.