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Unread 12-30-2013, 04:21 PM   #1
Burtman88
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Palatine, illionois
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Heater Blend door problems Please Help

so i have been having a problem with my heat on my Wk past month. Last month the passenger side heat stopped working and is only blowing out cold air. The driver side is putting heat out. The rear vent are also putting out cold air. so i looked it up it can be the actuator that's not working anymore or it can be the blend doors. It has been alright for the past month until i had to sit passenger in my jeep since we were switching driving on a long trip. On the way back it was -10 out all i have to say is wow worst experience i have had in my jeep. So is there a diagram where so i can try to fix this myself. I want to first make sure it's not the actuator. While i was getting a new key programmed this week at the stealership, i asked them how much to fix it they quoted me over a grand.

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87 YJ 2.5 inch lift 1 inch shackle BF AT 33-1250-r15

00 WJ

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Unread 12-30-2013, 04:45 PM   #2
WieSeL
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Take a look under the dash by the Back of the stereo on the side of the HVAC housing. Move the temperature from hot to cold and back again and see if the actuator is working.
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Unread 01-01-2014, 09:10 AM   #3
lavern23
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Mine did the same thing about a month ago. It was the recirc door that is behind the glove box. The gear was broke. A new gear is 16.00 at the dealership. It's about a 20 minute fix with the new part.

You take the glove box door assy out.

Take the torx screws off holding on the actuator and the gear is in between the actuator and the door arm.

68072190aa is the part I used.

Excellent pics in the link below

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=64973
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Unread 01-01-2014, 10:45 AM   #4
johngreen1234
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OP is describing a problem with the "Blend door" actuation, I think, not the Recirculation "Mode door" located behind the glove box. He can check all of them if he doesn't mind crawling around with a flashlight. Since I have a problem with my Blend door, I have become familiar with all these critter-doors and their hiding places. Here we go:

--Mode door. Probably not, but it's easy to pull the glove box and watch while you fiddle with the HVAC controls. I would look first before I bought the $10 part--it just doesn't sound like it.

--Blend door(s). If you have dual zone you have two of these, one on each side of the air box. If you have single zone like me, you only have one on the driver's side. The air box is a tall black thing straight behind the radio. It is as wide as the radio but as tall as the console area, and more difficult to remove than a kidney stone. There are no actuator gears here, like the Mode door. You can replace the actuator pack and see if it helps, or you can pay a dealer $2,000 and let them remove your whole dash and replace the airbox unit.

--Air door. This is on the driver's side of the airbox, above and behind the driver's Blend door. IIRC it controls the front/rear heat dist, or something like that. When you fiddle with all the switches you should see it moving or at least hear it clicking.

When I was googling "Blend door" I found a lot of talk and pix about the "Mode door" actuator gear and how easy it is to replace, which it is. But unfortunately it usually isn't the problem. This door controls whether the fan draws air from the outside, or air from the inside, and nothing else.
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Unread 01-02-2014, 10:03 AM   #5
Burtman88
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Thanks a lot for your help guys. Ill check it out soon when i have free time this weekend. Its getting annoying only defrosting half my jeep
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Unread 01-14-2014, 07:42 PM   #6
ISUzj
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My drivers side heat works perfectly fine but my passenger and rear is cold air. I can divert the air any direction I want. I just need to know where the heat comes from.

wouldn't it be great if there was an actual diagram of the HVAC on the net? everything seems to only relate to the WJ's

My mode door is working fine (unfortunately) and I can feel the actuator move on the pass side down low (the shaft part)
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Unread 01-14-2014, 09:27 PM   #7
Jaashua
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I only have the default defrost. It has always been like this. I have recailibrated it and it changes vents but always goes back to defrost. What one is my problem?
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Unread 01-15-2014, 06:55 AM   #8
ISUzj
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well I messed with it some again last night, and when I adjust the drivers side temp, I hear a whirr that gets long and low, like a door is pressing against something. The passenger side I hear an actuator move, but no low noise like it is pushing down on anything.

my gear behind the glovebox doesn't seem to be broken at all, so by deduction it must be my passenger blend door.

It helps to disconnect the fan power behind the glovebox when you are messing, it makes it much easier to hear actuators moving.

Also I found something that helps some on the cold temps. At least on dual temp control;
1)Adjust the postion to front/floor split turn the heat to 78 deg on both of them,
2) hit the A/C button and then the recirculate button
3) turn off the A/C. that way it will keep the recirculator door shut and over time the air coming out of the pass side and rear wont be ice cold, just cooler.


Edit: putting this here for later, apparently a few commanders have had the same issue:
http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/...ad.php?t=13592
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Can't buy it? BUILD IT!! Do it cheap too cuz your in college

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Unread 03-11-2015, 11:50 AM   #9
Cherokee_B
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Are there any updates? Anyone able to fix this issue on a wk without paying a $1000+ to a dealer? I see tutorials online for WJs and see a million post about people having the same problem on a WK but I have yet to find a concrete solution.

2008 WK Overland 5.7 Hemi Upgrades: Full borla exhaust, Mopar cold air intake, 4xguard front guard
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Unread 03-11-2015, 12:04 PM   #10
ISUzj
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YES... I was able to fix my passenger side it has been working for approx 7 months.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/b...epair-1215046/
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Can't wait to get started, but my wallet can......
~~~_______oooo_
~~ / ../...\...\_____\
~~[_---_____---_\-\\\\\\-\
~~~(o) )-o---(o) )-o---) )
94ZJ 5.2 Red; Rusty's 3" Coils,Skyjacker hydro's, Brush Guard, Custom Rear Bumper, Custom Roof Rack, KVG Quick Discos, 31-10.50-15's DAYTON TIMBERLINE A/T OBA 2 Gallon tank
Can't buy it? BUILD IT!! Do it cheap too cuz your in college

My Build Thread Align your jeep yourself B N B#175
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Unread 03-11-2015, 05:37 PM   #11
90grandoneer
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I have two DCX vehicles (LX and WK) and both have had passenger side blend door issues, although everything appeared to work fine on both sides of each. I found the "problems" with my computerized diagnostic tester (Autel MaxiDas DS708), and was able to resolve both by recalibrating the doors with the tester. It allowed me to manually run all the doors and check the opening %ages. I haven't checked it in a while to make sure it hasn't returned, but I'll go out and do it now on both. Stand by.
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Unread 03-11-2015, 08:18 PM   #12
90grandoneer
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OK, just went out and checked both vehicles (both have the same dual HVAC system) and both have the problem back again, although everything seems to work properly on both rt. and lt.sides of each vehicle. Hers's what the tester said:
On the LX I got the following stored codes:
B10A9-Rt. Blend Door Control Circuit Performance
B10AE-Rt. Blend Door Travel Too Large

On the WK I got the following stored code:
B10A9-Rt. Blend Door Control Circuit Performance

On both, I did the Actuator Calibration Test, which moves all Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) doors to their full travel limits to determine the travel span of each door. The rear temperature potentiometer will also be calibrated at this time.

When running the Right Blend door on both vehicles to each of their settings....0, 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100%, they both worked properly. I also checked the Right Blend Door Actuator Positioning, the Actuator Target Position, Actual Position and Actuator Span (travel range). All checked out, and the travel range indicated 202.606 degrees.

On the LX, I was able to duplicate the B10A9 code by running the Calibration Test several times. Then I started getting the following stored code:
B1040-Panel Mode Door Control Circuit Performance

On both, this leads me to believe that there is control problem, rather than a Blend Door problem, especially since the Blend Doors seem to work as they're suppose to. I'll do a little more research on this and see what I can come up with. I do find it stange that both my vehicles, with the same HVAC system, have almost exactly the same problem, and especially that MOST OF THE HVAC BLEND DOOR PROBLEMS POSTED ON THE FORUMS HAVE A PROBLEM ON THE RIGHT SIDE. Is there some sort of trend going on here?
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Unread 03-12-2015, 07:44 AM   #13
ISUzj
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Quote:
On both, I did the Actuator Calibration Test, which moves all Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) doors to their full travel limits to determine the travel span of each door. The rear temperature potentiometer will also be calibrated at this time.
I didn't think there was a calibration sequence for the dual HVAC, I thought it was only the single HVAC system.. care to share? Based on your info above. sounds like you need a star-scan tool.
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Can't wait to get started, but my wallet can......
~~~_______oooo_
~~ / ../...\...\_____\
~~[_---_____---_\-\\\\\\-\
~~~(o) )-o---(o) )-o---) )
94ZJ 5.2 Red; Rusty's 3" Coils,Skyjacker hydro's, Brush Guard, Custom Rear Bumper, Custom Roof Rack, KVG Quick Discos, 31-10.50-15's DAYTON TIMBERLINE A/T OBA 2 Gallon tank
Can't buy it? BUILD IT!! Do it cheap too cuz your in college

My Build Thread Align your jeep yourself B N B#175
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Unread 03-12-2015, 09:45 AM   #14
Cherokee_B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISUzj View Post
YES... I was able to fix my passenger side it has been working for approx 7 months.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/b...epair-1215046/
Thank you for your response and link. Good info! You have the single zone, right? I have the dual zone, do you know how different that would be? Would it look more like the WJ daul zone tutorials I have seen?

Also, did I see you had to replace your recirc door gear or the actuator-ac (part name). I think i saw you used some JB weld on it. I have verified that I do have that broken gear. The problem I am currently having is the clicking noise (actuator-ac gear) and my heat only comes out of the driver vents (I think this may be the blend door issue). It seems like my cold air works through all vents so it seems like the blend door is stuck on cold now? Is it possible that fixing the actuator-ac gear would fix my heat issue as well or do I have both problems. I know the gear has been a problem for a while but the heat issue seems to be a more recent problem. Could the gear problem cause the heat problem? I just don't understand how it seems like they may have gone out at the same time.

Thanks again for your responses and insight!

Cherokee_B
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Unread 03-12-2015, 02:31 PM   #15
90grandoneer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISUzj View Post
I didn't think there was a calibration sequence for the dual HVAC, I thought it was only the single HVAC system.. care to share? Based on your info above. sounds like you need a star-scan tool.
I believe my DS708 is about as close to a StarScan as you can get, with the exception that it works on all OBDII equipped vehicles, and not just Chrysler vehicles. It may not have all the Chrysler specific features, but I believe it has almost everything I'll ever need for the DCX vehicles and anything I'll own in the future.

On the calibration sequence indicated above, the wording I used was almost word for word from the tester, and was for the Right Blend Door. I don't believe there is one for the left door though, as I got some sort of message saying something like not available. I'll go out and run it again and get the exact wording.
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