Harmonic Balancer - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 01-11-2017, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
Jcompres
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So the Harmonic Balancer on my Hemi is bad and I have the replacement but I haven't got the chance to change it. I was looking up videos for the wk but can't seem to find one. I saw a bunch of other ones though. My biggest concern is the bolt that has to be removed against the crank. Has anyone ever changed it? If so what should I look out for? I heard I need a puller and a installer. Is it necessary?

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post #2 of 27 Old 01-11-2017, 01:43 PM
cranbiz
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Not on the Hemi but on the 4.7L, I have.

It was pretty easy, used an impact gun to pull the bolt and use a 3 Jaw puller, came right off. To install, place in position and use the bolt to seat it.

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post #3 of 27 Old 01-11-2017, 03:44 PM
90grandoneer
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On the 5.7 it calls for a "special" tool to reinstall the pulley. All it really amounts to is a little longer bolt with a big washer on it. I found on the setup at my local industrial hardware place for cheap. You'll just need to use this setup to pull the pulley on far enough so the treads of the NEW BOLT (you'll need to get one) can pull it on the rest of the way. When you get the new bolt, check the treads real good, as I had to run a tap on the one I got from the stealer....after it started binding and wouldn't go smoothly into the crank. It might help to run the bolt in by hand BEFORE you install the new pulley....just to make sure it'll go in easily by hand. There is no keyway in the crank or woodruff key, so the pulley can go on any old way. If you're planning somewhere down the road to highly modify your engine (like maybe forced induction), you'll need to get the crank/pulley keyed so it won't slip/spin on the crank. Stock/mildly modified engines are no problem. I installed 25% underdrive pulleys on both my Hemi's. I was able to do both without removing the radiator, but the WK was harder to do than the LX because of the limited work space. Also, the puller you use should have a pin that goes into the bolt hole of the crank and doesn't contact the threads or outer part of the crank. If you use a puller that rides on the front of the crank and bolt hole, you'll risk damaging the threads. Good luck and let us know how this project goes.

Edit: Oh, be sure to torque it to the proper specs. too. I used a good quality strap wrench to keep the crank from moving. If you're using a stock pulley, you'll probably be able to wedge a large screwdriver or breaker bar into one of the spokes of the pulley. You'll just have to see what you can rest the other end to.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
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post #4 of 27 Old 01-11-2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer
On the 5.7 it calls for a "special" tool to reinstall the pulley. All it really amounts to is a little longer bolt with a big washer on it. I found on the setup at my local industrial hardware place for cheap. You'll just need to use this setup to pull the pulley on far enough so the treads of the NEW BOLT (you'll need to get one) can pull it on the rest of the way. When you get the new bolt, check the treads real good, as I had to run a tap on the one I got from the stealer....after it started binding and wouldn't go smoothly into the crank. It might help to run the bolt in by hand BEFORE you install the new pulley....just to make sure it'll go in easily by hand. There is no keyway in the crank or woodruff key, so the pulley can go on any old way. If you're planning somewhere down the road to highly modify your engine (like maybe forced induction), you'll need to get the crank/pulley keyed so it won't slip/spin on the crank. Stock/mildly modified engines are no problem. I installed 25% underdrive pulleys on both my Hemi's. I was able to do both without removing the radiator, but the WK was harder to do than the LX because of the limited work space. Also, the puller you use should have a pin that goes into the bolt hole of the crank and doesn't contact the threads or outer part of the crank. If you use a puller that rides on the front of the crank and bolt hole, you'll risk damaging the threads. Good luck and let us know how this project goes. Edit: Oh, be sure to torque it to the proper specs. too. I used a good quality strap wrench to keep the crank from moving. If you're using a stock pulley, you'll probably be able to wedge a large screwdriver or breaker bar into one of the spokes of the pulley. You'll just have to see what you can rest the other end to.
Can I use the jaw puller set of 3 from harbor freight? I tried today with a crowbar and a breaker bar and it wasn't budging, I could've forced the bolt off but I didn't have a jaw puller so I was hesitant to actually move on and take off the bolt off and then not be able to remove it without a puller.
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post #5 of 27 Old 01-12-2017, 01:10 PM
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Be very careful you don't damage the front timing cover when you pry on things. Using the proper puller, it should come off real easy once the bolt is removed. You can remove the bolt with an impact gun or a 1/2 in. breaker bar after wedging one of the spoke of the pulley onto something like the sway bar, lower frame below the pulley, or?.....I don't remember which I wedged to. IIRC, it wasn't a big deal though. The puller you'll need will come with about a 1/4 in. hardened pin that will slide into and bottom out in the crank bolt hole. The puller will then contact just the pin and nothing on the crank. This will save your crank and the threads from being damaged. If you can't find a puller like that, you can probably use a small, good quality bolt long enough to bottom out in the crank bolt hole and pull against that.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
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post #6 of 27 Old 01-12-2017, 02:15 PM
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This should go without saying but please don't hammer the new pulley on.
You'd be surprised.
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post #7 of 27 Old 01-12-2017, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
Jcompres
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So I'll grab a puller from harbor freight or AutoZone and for the installer I just basically need a longer size of the bolt from the balancer with a nut right?
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post #8 of 27 Old 01-12-2017, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcompres View Post
So I'll grab a puller from harbor freight or AutoZone and for the installer I just basically need a longer size of the bolt from the balancer with a nut right?
They should have an install tool too.
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post #9 of 27 Old 01-12-2017, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
They should have an install tool too.
That would be nice. I had to call around to several places before I found a longer "install" bolt to pull the damper on. As I said, get a new one for the one that holds the pulley in place. When I did mine I used the washer off the original bolt that held the pulley on. IIRC, it was kind of a bear to get off though....didn't just slide off. No nut is needed, just the bolt and the large washer.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
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post #10 of 27 Old 01-13-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer
That would be nice. I had to call around to several places before I found a longer "install" bolt to pull the damper on. As I said, get a new one for the one that holds the pulley in place. When I did mine I used the washer off the original bolt that held the pulley on. IIRC, it was kind of a bear to get off though....didn't just slide off. No nut is needed, just the bolt and the large washer.
so you got the new bolt for the damper from a hardware store or at AutoZone or something?
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post #11 of 27 Old 01-13-2017, 09:52 AM
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The NEW bolt you'll use once the pulley is on will have to come from the dealer. The one I used for a tool to pull the pulley on far enough so the NEW bolt can be screwed into the crank did come from a store similar to a large hardware store. I used the washer off the original pulley bolt as my washer for the tool. I had to call several places before I could find the correct size, thread pitch and length. First thing you'll need to do is get the bolt from the dealer. Then you'll know the size and thread pitch needed. I'll try to find the bolt I used and get you the length.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
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post #12 of 27 Old 01-13-2017, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer
The NEW bolt you'll use once the pulley is on will have to come from the dealer. The one I used for a tool to pull the pulley on far enough so the NEW bolt can be screwed into the crank did come from a store similar to a large hardware store. I used the washer off the original pulley bolt as my washer for the tool. I had to call several places before I could find the correct size, thread pitch and length. First thing you'll need to do is get the bolt from the dealer. Then you'll know the size and thread pitch needed. I'll try to find the bolt I used and get you the length.
Alright thanks Keep me posted and I'll see if I can find it as well
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post #13 of 27 Old 01-13-2017, 02:54 PM
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The bolt you'll use as a tool is somewhat longer (how much longer is what I don't remember) than the factory bolt that ends up holding the pulley on. I can't find the one I used and I wonder if I gave it to my son for use at his shop. The only purpose for the longer bolt/washer is just to start screwing it in so it pulls the new pulley onto the crank far enough so you can engage the threads of the factory bolt/washer you get from the dealer. You'll pull it the rest of the way on with the factory bolt and then torque it to specification.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
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post #14 of 27 Old 01-13-2017, 05:59 PM
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Sounds like a longer bolt of any size that fits would work as long as you could use washers to make up the difference?
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post #15 of 27 Old 01-13-2017, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
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Sounds like a longer bolt of any size that fits would work as long as you could use washers to make up the difference?
Yes, I think it would too. They're pretty big washers though.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
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