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Unread 07-31-2009, 08:02 PM   #1
CRD Dawg
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Get a CCV Filter!

Just opened up the Racor for the first time after about 300 miles since installation to check the condition of the filter since I hadn't seen any accumulation in the drain tube I set up. I know that it's very premature but I just couldn't help myself. I installed it at about 1200 miles and I'm now at about 1550 miles. Holy Blow-By! Now I'm kind of worried! My CRD sat on a Dealer lot for over 18 months before I bought it (Aug. 07 build date) and spent about 9 hours (per the engine hours counter) during that time, probably doing a lot of idling and a few hard test drives. It had 144 miles at delivery in April when I bought it. I've tried not to drive it too much until I got the Racor installed. Anyway, the intake side of the filter was completely oily and very black. I couldn't believe how coated it was after only about 300 miles! Thankfully the mouth of the turbo intake was dry as a bone. I guess it doing it's job and I'll just chalk it up to increased blow-by during break-in. I hate to think how much oil got sucked through the turbo in the nearly 2 years before I got the Racor. I highly recommend any CRD owner doing this mod!

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Unread 08-01-2009, 12:12 AM   #2
wookiee
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Welcome to the club!

Regardless of what others say regarding Mercedes engineering, I'm sure that the catch cans are an improvement and will help prolong the crd's life.
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Last edited by wookiee; 08-01-2009 at 12:42 AM.. Reason: Adjusted phrasing
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Unread 08-01-2009, 08:03 AM   #3
justa4banger
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Yea i had this mod on my crd but with me being gone away from my truck, i wasn't sure if my mom could understand how to drain, or if she would drain the racor......

Oh well i'll my truck pretty soon.

I had mine on and then went on a 2500 mile road trip, it was amazing to see the oil that was gathered, but honestly it wasn't all that much IMO.

As for sitting and what not... just drive the truck. Mine was a sep 07 build, i believe, and i got it march 09 with 223 miles. So far it has almost 14k miles and the issues have been the A/C and a small oil leak (its in service as i type to get those issues resolved) and a small tranny fiuild leak from a cooler line.

I wish i could still have the racor on the truck, but since i'm not there to care for the truck....i figured i would leave it stock.... makes it easier on mom.
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Unread 08-01-2009, 11:57 AM   #4
no-blue-screen
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here here

I agree completely. It is the only way to solve 'the oil problem'.
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Unread 08-01-2009, 04:22 PM   #5
TonyVideo
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I love my ProVent. It does the job. I also notice when I tow something I collect more oil for whatever reason. This is one mod that I have never regretted doing. I plan on at least driving this vehicle until 300,000 miles and with the ProVent or Racor it will help it last.
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Unread 08-05-2009, 10:01 PM   #6
CRD Dawg
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Well, 500 miles after installation, the red pressure regulator thing on top of the CCV canister has popped up indicating that air flow is restricted and that the filter needs to be replaced. A little frustrating since I decided to err on the side of overkill as far as CCV size goes to ensure this would never happen. I've rechecked everything 100 times and can't figure it out. I have the CCV4500. I know diagnosis is nearly impossible w/o pics, especially since I got a different unit than most, but I thought I'd at least try to pick your collective brains. The black CCV valve is gone and I replaced it with a custom machined coupling (with a clip to hold it in place) that I had fabricated based on the exact blueprints someone had posted on this forum about their setup. I can't remember who it was. From the aluminum coupling leading from the valve cover, I have about 10 inches of 3/4 inch hose leading into the filter. No kinks at all. Leaving the filter is a 4 inch length of hose, a 90 degree elbow, and about 2 - 2 1/2 feet of 3/4 inch hose leading to the inline heater that hooks into the air intake. No kinks or very sharp bends. What could be causing the red indicator to pop up so quickly? I've made sure that I've hooked the hose up to the correct intake and exhaust ports on the cannister, and I have a collection tube running from the bottom of the cannister that is properly capped off. Any ideas? One thing I don't understand. The intake channel leads into the center of the circular filter, and the outer perimeter of the filter stays clean. How in the world does the oil drain into the catch can when it is entering the filter on the inside? There are no drain holes in the filter element to allow the oil to drain into the bottom of the main canister and down the drain tube. I may have to post pics. I'm starting to realize that this is all probably impossible to visualize...
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Last edited by CRD Dawg; 08-06-2009 at 05:10 AM..
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Unread 08-05-2009, 11:29 PM   #7
Spider-One
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I would try with the original CCV valve in place. From what I understand it's only function is to regulate pressure. I know the 3500 does this automatically but I'm not sure about the 4500, perhaps the 4500 being designed for larger applications regulates at a different pressure or maybe it doesn't regulate it at all...
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Unread 08-06-2009, 12:10 PM   #8
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisaspencer View Post
Well, 500 miles after installation, the red pressure regulator thing on top of the CCV canister has popped up indicating that air flow is restricted and that the filter needs to be replaced. A little frustrating since I decided to err on the side of overkill as far as CCV size goes to ensure this would never happen. I've rechecked everything 100 times and can't figure it out. I have the CCV4500. I know diagnosis is nearly impossible w/o pics, especially since I got a different unit than most, but I thought I'd at least try to pick your collective brains. The black CCV valve is gone and I replaced it with a custom machined coupling (with a clip to hold it in place) that I had fabricated based on the exact blueprints someone had posted on this forum about their setup. I can't remember who it was. From the aluminum coupling leading from the valve cover, I have about 10 inches of 3/4 inch hose leading into the filter. No kinks at all. Leaving the filter is a 4 inch length of hose, a 90 degree elbow, and about 2 - 2 1/2 feet of 3/4 inch hose leading to the inline heater that hooks into the air intake. No kinks or very sharp bends. What could be causing the red indicator to pop up so quickly? I've made sure that I've hooked the hose up to the correct intake and exhaust ports on the cannister, and I have a collection tube running from the bottom of the cannister that is properly capped off. Any ideas? One thing I don't understand. The intake channel leads into the center of the circular filter, and the outer perimeter of the filter stays clean. How in the world does the oil drain into the catch can when it is entering the filter on the inside? There are no drain holes in the filter element to allow the oil to drain into the bottom of the main canister and down the drain tube. I may have to post pics. I'm starting to realize that this is all probably impossible to visualize...
well, I don't know what the issue is, can you disconnect the racor from you jeep and hook up an air hose and blow through the hoses?

one thing is for sure, you don't want the system to plug up, here's what happens when it does!
http://streetjeeps.net/vb/showpost.p...80&postcount=1
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Unread 08-06-2009, 05:32 PM   #9
nostaw22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyVideo View Post
I love my ProVent. It does the job. I also notice when I tow something I collect more oil for whatever reason.
When you're towing the engine is working harder so you get more crank case gas to recirculate, which would cause more oil to get pulled through the system.

I towed my other jeep + trailer a few months ago (call it ~7000 lbs)... The turbo normally runs at ~8-10 psi when I cruise at 70-75 mph, but was running ~14-18 psi while towing on the highway.

Unless you're doing a huge amount of towing I wouldn't have expected it to be something you'd notice.

JW
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Unread 08-07-2009, 06:20 AM   #10
potamo
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Now that my CRD is at the workshop, and reading this, I could tell them to install such filter.

Is there a part number I can order for the CCV filter apt for the CRD either from Racor or Mann ProVent?

Which one would be easier to get here in Europe?
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Unread 08-07-2009, 07:45 AM   #11
no-blue-screen
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This is the one I have:

http://www.republicsales.com/product...annprovent.php
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Unread 08-07-2009, 12:42 PM   #12
CRD Dawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzieque View Post
well, I don't know what the issue is, can you disconnect the racor from you jeep and hook up an air hose and blow through the hoses?

one thing is for sure, you don't want the system to plug up, here's what happens when it does!
http://streetjeeps.net/vb/showpost.p...80&postcount=1
Wow. That's scary. I wonder what kind of engine damage was done. How would I know if excessive pressure was building up in the crankcase due to a possible clogged filter or plugged hose? After an hour of driving yesterday (in 95 degree heat by the way), as soon as I reached my driveway, I let the engine idle for about 2 minutes, shut it down and immediately pulled the hose leading from the valve cover to the CCV filter and pulled the dipstick. I detected no built up pressure. Would I have been able to tell by doing this if excess pressure had built up? Thanks for your help.
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Unread 08-07-2009, 01:14 PM   #13
suzieque
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I don't know much about the racor (yet, I have one on order now) or provent. but being as they are "closed" systems, you may not know until your dipstick starts spouting.

A check valve with a pressure release venting on the undercarriage would be a good idea, but thats just my opinion, thats the way older diesels handled it until emissions regulations changed that. Haven't given it much thought really until this thread.
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Unread 08-07-2009, 04:20 PM   #14
Spider-One
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I remember the thread and I'm pretty sure there was no immediate damage. The Racor has an integrated bypass so if the back-pressure is too high it will automatically open. There is an indicator on the top of the unit and if the red indicator is popped out it means it is in bypass mode.

What happened with buddy who had oil fly all over the place was the hose kinked up. If you use a good oil-resistant hose and 90* fittings instead of just bending the hose all over the place you'll be fine. He's the only one I can think of who's had an issue like that.
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Unread 08-09-2009, 05:38 PM   #15
CRD Dawg
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After rechecking everything this weekend, I decided to go get pre bent/molded hoses that fit the exact curves I needed to achieve with my setup to ensure proper air flow. Got it all installed and it looks great. I reset the "pop up - filter clogged" button and turned on the Jeep. Well, up it popped. I got me to thinking. Maybe the filter really is clogged after only 500 miles?! I looked inside the filter and it's pretty black. I then inspected the old line I had running from the valve cover to the intake of the CCV filter. It felt really sticky and not just wet with diesel mist. Is it possible that the diesel is dissolving the interior of the heater hose I used? I think the filter might be clogged with dissolved residue from the inside of the heater hose. That's concerning because the CCV 4500 goes into BYPASS mode when the filter gets clogged and sends the gasses straight thru and out of the filter and into the engine. And that's now with gasses carrying partially dissolved heater hose right into the engine!!! The intake to the turbo is wet again. Has anyone had any issues with the hose they used dissolving and clogging up their CCV filter? Is this a possibility?
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