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Unread 03-28-2011, 11:59 AM   #16
robpp
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if its loctite causing the binding use some heat. it works well on the red.

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Unread 03-28-2011, 01:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentman View Post
I will be doing this on Saturday, breaker bar in hand. I have no power tools.

I have to get that pinion bushing done. I plan to leave the shaft in place but unbolted. I also need to do the differential solenoids and fluid while I am in there. I expect that you will want to use more thread locker when reinstalling. That reminds me. I will need to pick some up before Saturday.

On the design of the shaft, I bet that the pain for removal was intentional. You would hate to have the front mounting break free and have the shaft pole vault your ride on the freeway. This way, if it fails, then it just drops and sits.
I doubt that's why they made it that way.... it's just a shorter wheel based vehicle thatn say a silverado, which is the same setup.... it will drop the drive shaft right down after unbolting.... thats how you drop the trans-pan on some Silverados
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Unread 03-28-2011, 05:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acidcold View Post
Not bad but in some situations you wouldn't want that out on the trails with you....
good point. i was only thinking of driveway repairs and not the convenience of cordless when out wheeling.
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Unread 05-25-2013, 10:25 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatinumNiner View Post
Did a starter on my dads 2005 grand cherokee over the summer. Lube them up a bit and back them out. You cant get the driveshaft out after its all un bolted. You have to support the transmission and drop the crossmember in order to have room to remove the driveshaft. Very stupid design.
Old thread but a new issue for me.

Pretty sure the front cv boot on the front drive shaft is cracked or has a pinhole 'cause it's slingin grease. There is a very noticeable rip in the rear rubber boot of the front shaft - but no grease (yet; or there's none left )

Anyway - is this post correct as far as requiring the x-member removal to pull the front drive shaft out?

Any other tricks aside from what's mentioned in the thread?
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Unread 05-25-2013, 06:44 PM   #20
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^^^ Bump
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Unread 05-28-2013, 05:31 AM   #21
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^^^ btt
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Unread 05-28-2013, 02:24 PM   #22
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Ive changed out mine at least 6 times and it doesnt need anything removed unless you have some extra skids. The front cv joint on the shaft has a slip yoke inside it as well.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 02:25 PM   #23
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And if you have a modded SL and 35's you dont even need a jack
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Unread 05-28-2013, 03:27 PM   #24
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^^^ Copy - thank you, sir!
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Unread 05-29-2013, 12:33 PM   #25
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Let me know how it goes, I suspect my front drive shaft is torched as well. Slung Grease, clunking noise when under hard acceleration or coasting deceleration, and vibrations at certain speed/RPM combinations. I changed the front diff fluid and it looked good, so I ma pretty sure it is my Front DS causing this.
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Unread 05-29-2013, 01:20 PM   #26
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It depends on your drive train. Dave doesn't need to mess with the crossmember because he has a CRD which has a shorter front shaft. With my '05 Hemi I do have to drop the cressmember. I "think" it is the 3.0L, 3.7L, and 6.1L that have a shorter front shaft because the tranny is shorter, but the 4.7L and 5.7L use a different tranny and a longer front shaft. Also some years/models have a different joint on the pinion side of the shaft.
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Unread 05-29-2013, 02:01 PM   #27
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^^^ Nathan - the last sentence is what concerns me. After reading Dave's post and calling driveshaftparts direct I feel assured they have both joints for my 07 4.7 front.

Guess ima find out soon as both need rebuilt/swapped.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 10:17 AM   #28
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What joints are on your front drive shaft right now?
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Unread 05-30-2013, 11:00 AM   #29
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Both are cv. The diff side has the longer boot. The tcase has the shorter.
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'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
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'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 05-30-2013, 01:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omelet View Post
It depends on your drive train. Dave doesn't need to mess with the crossmember because he has a CRD which has a shorter front shaft. With my '05 Hemi I do have to drop the cressmember. I "think" it is the 3.0L, 3.7L, and 6.1L that have a shorter front shaft because the tranny is shorter, but the 4.7L and 5.7L use a different tranny and a longer front shaft. Also some years/models have a different joint on the pinion side of the shaft.
Hmmm, i did a hemi one as well and didnt have too. Was tighter but came out easy. Wonder if its a WH-WK thing. Like the fact that your WK brake lines are around 2" longer factory than ours And yes, there are some with a standard uni joint one end, but they are easily spotted.
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