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Unread 07-15-2014, 11:47 PM   #91
Registered User
2008 WK 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houghton, MI
Posts: 164
I have an addition to the tire talk from throughout the thread. Today I had a set of Cooper AT3 265/70-17 installed on my stock wheels, running them without spacers on an OME MD lift. I don't have any rubbing on the pinch weld, but I had to cut the ball joint stud almost to the nut to give what I think is adequate clearance. I initially cut the stud at the base of the threads and I had about 1-2mm clearance, which to me was too tight. I also had quite a bit of rubbing at full lock in both directions (passenger was slightly worse) on the frame/metal plate that is located at the rear portion of the wheel wells. I took a BFH and folded the lower lip on this plate in a touch so it hopefully won't grab the tire, and I also hammered on the face of the plate at the two rubs to hopefully provide enough clearance. I cleaned, prepped, cleaned again, shot it with primer, and then a quick shot of rubberized undercoating when I was done. It was still tacky so I haven't driven it yet tonight so not sure if I will still have contact or not.

Point of all this is that I don't think the original recommendation of 265s (31.6") for a 2-3" lift is correct without saying there will most likely be rubbing. Everyone is worried about the pinch weld but that sharp lip on the frame can do damage to your new tires as well. I've seen in this thread, as well as numerous other threads, 265/70-17 being recommended with no rubbing, and from what I've seen today this simply isn't true. Granted, different tires, styles, manufacturers are going to have variations in diameter and width, but I can tell you for sure that the Cooper AT3 in that size rubs with the OME MD lift. I really don't want to run spacers, and I'm considering calling my tire place in the morning to see if they'll swap out the 265 for 255, or possibly 265/65-17. However, between the cost of the remounting and balancing, and the additional cost due to the 255 being a less common size, I'm already at the cost of a set of spacers so I might just cave in and use them until I can find another set of wheels.

I've also posted similar info in the tire/wheel thread and a couple others that get read often. I hope this info helps out others that are in the situation I was in and wondering what size tires to go with after they get their new lift on. For what it's worth, I've been driving with the lift for about a week and it settled at most about 0.25" from when I first put it on. I'm now at about 22.25" from center of hub to the wheel well in front. I have the CRD, no armor or bumper (no real plans to put armor on, though I may get the front "suspension" skid in the future) using 4600 in the front.

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Unread 07-16-2014, 09:36 AM   #92
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2005 WK 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Gloucester, MA
Posts: 75
Bersh, I'm in exactly the same boat as you right now. I have a 2" BB lift and last week installed 265/70/17 General Grabber AT2 all around. I used 1/4 spacers to clear the UCA bolt, and have no issues with the pinch weld or fender. However, at full lock I'm hitting the frame and sway bar. I wasn't as concerned about the front sway until I noticed the when in reverse at full lock the rubbing on the frame was actually cutting small pieces out of the tread on the front tires.

I figured my only option at this point was to invest in a set of new spacers to hopefully throw the wheel out just far enough so it wont hit anymore. I reached out to Kolak and he suggested the same thing.

I ended up ordering 1.25" spacers all around and will be putting them on this weekend, hopefully in addition to Bilstein 4600 rear shocks.

I'll keep you posted on the results.

Good luck with your tires

Blue 05 WK 3.7 | RC 2 BB | 265/70/17 GG AT2 | Bilstein 4600 HD (rear) | 1.25 Spacers | Hypertech Max
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Unread 07-16-2014, 12:26 PM   #93
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2008 WK 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houghton, MI
Posts: 164
I am going to add that the upper stud was contacting the tires slightly, even though I initially had that 1-2mm of clearance (maybe 2-3mm, I didn't try to measure it but not much clearance). I generally agree that if the stud clears it should always clear, but I think you need more than 1/8" or so to be sure. While driving there must be some dynamic force going on in curves and corners that must flex the tires a touch as yesterday in the driving I did before cutting the studs more I had a very slight vibration/rubbing feeling when taking curves and corners at speed. When I removed the tires to cut the stud and hammer the fender, I noticed a line around the edge of the tread at about the point that the studs were. It didn't cut into the tire, more like rubbed it clean, so it must have just very slightly been making contact. Today, taking corners and curves at speed I didn't have any of the same sensation so I'm guessing that the additional chopping has provided enough clearance. Lesson learned is that having just enough space for say a credit card to slide between the stud and tire isn't enough.

Also, the hammering helped but didn't solve the rub on the frame. I may try smacking it a bit more, but the contact is still enough that I don't think I can bend it far enough out of the way with the BFH. I may try an air chisel with a blunt tip to see what happens.

I know I'm making this sound a bit more doom and gloom than it really is, but folks should be aware that this FAQ is a bit misleading/lacking information so hopefully this helps a bit.
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Unread 01-09-2015, 08:43 PM   #94
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2007 WK 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: HI
Posts: 763
Was is the stock height from center caps to fender?
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Unread 01-13-2015, 11:09 AM   #95
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 1
2005 Quadra Drive II Question

Please know I did read through a lot of threads before asking this.

I've seen posts that say QDRII is always in 4WD but only sends power forward if the rears slip. I've also seen posts and literature from Jeep stating it's a 48/52 split unless there's slippage, at which point the gerotors take over.

Which is the case? I understand to a fair degree how the differentials work in this system...I just don't know how much power goes to the front wheels on an everyday/normal driving experience.

And, if it IS true that the front wheels receive no power unless the rears slip, how does this effect its performance on snowy roads?

Thanks in advance for your responses. My only experience with 4x4s was my '91 Cherokee which was pretty easy to understand in terms of how the 4wd worked.
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Unread 01-15-2015, 08:42 PM   #96
Registered User
2007 WK 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Edmonton, Alberta (Canada)
Posts: 57
Bigs, the literature from Jeep is correct. The WK is bias towards the rear. As for driving in the snow and ice, the traction control does a pretty decent job at keeping the WK out of trouble. But make no mistakes, this is not a rally car. I keep finding myself having to slow down or bringing the rear under control when the Jeep slips the rear while turning on icy streets. You can also manually turn off/on traction control if you want to experiment with different driving experiences.
At the end of the day, the tires that you are running in the snow/ice will be a key factor for keeping you safe.
Hope it helps.
2007 WK CRD Laredo / QDII / GDE Eco tune / 275-75-17 Cooper Discoverer AT3 /+230,000 kms
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