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Unread 12-06-2007, 07:34 PM   #1
mc22958
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Finished First oil change, 08 CRD Grand

I just finished my first oil change on the 08 CRD Grand Cherokee. I had the correct oil and followed instructions from others on this forum. Here are my thoughts.
I ordered the oil from AV lubricants and a new filter from the dealer. I pulled the Grand into the garage and put the oil pan, holds about 12 quarts, under the Jeep. I have the optional Quadra Drive 2 so I have the skid plates. The manufacture allowed a nice access hole to access the drain plug. They even put a plastic diverter so the oil would go into the catch pan and not onto the skid plate. A very cool idea if it worked. Maybe my hand is too big but it was hard to hold onto the plug and get it out of the way of the gushing oil. You have to be careful and not drop the copper washer. I drooped it and got a hand and arm full of oil. After all of the oil was drained I reinstalled the drain plug. Now to the topside. I undid the two bolts holding the plastic cover over the engine. The cover slides right back with little problem. I cracked open the oil filler and dip stick. The oil filter is in a cast aluminum housing with a black plastic screw top. Righty tighty lefty loosie and the black screw top came off. The black plastic top has two round rubber gaskets. One large on the screw cap and one on the tip which is very small. I replaced these with new ones and set the cap aside. The filter housing retains some oil which I cleaned out. The new filter fits but it is very snug. I left the filter out so that I could pour some oil down the small center hole. I put five quarts down the oil filler and the other five down the filter housing hole. For the last quart I installed the filter so that it would start to get oil saturated. After all of the oil was in I reinstalled the black plastic screw cap. When I went to move the oil drain pan I noticed that oil had indeed gotten into the skid plate. I couldn't seem to clean it up to my satisfaction so off came the skid plate. Two bolts in the rear and two up front. The front bolts allow you to slide the skid plate free without removing the front bolts completely. I found this out by accident, oopse. After cleaning the skid plate I re-installed it. Now I went out and took the dogs for a run, ate dinner and watched the news. (Others have mentioned waiting several minutes, atleast 15, before starting after an oil change) After the news I went back and started the GC. I let it run for several minutes while I checked the book to figure out how to change the oil schedule in the computer. Page 202 or something. I turned off the CRD and checked for leaks. So far so good.

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Unread 12-06-2007, 10:00 PM   #2
flyrx
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Thanks for the complete write-up. Do you think it is worth it to pull the skid plate before draining the oil?
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Unread 12-07-2007, 04:38 AM   #3
mc22958
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Yea, I think next time I will pull the skid plate first. The problem I had was the oil got behind the plastic diverter and onto the skid plate. I hate oil drips so that is why I pulled it. I am sure that some Dealers and the oil change places will not pull it down. It might work better if you are on a lift and can get to things a little easer. It didn't work too well with me on my back. The skid plate is heavy but was surprisingly easy to re-install with how the front bolts are loosened but intact. I think Jeep did a good job with that set up.
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Unread 12-07-2007, 07:04 AM   #4
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nice write up thanks,
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Unread 12-07-2007, 08:46 AM   #5
NetworkMD
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I agree thanks again for the great write up, this will help the rest of us. Would you mind to share the cost of the supplies? I wonder if we could consider a sticky or something because this will be a topic of interest to us CRD folks. I understand it requires very special oil because of the DPF.
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Unread 12-07-2007, 03:57 PM   #6
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Mc or anyone else if you would like to do a full write-up with pics and all the documentation you can submit it to the Write-Up section and get yourself a free 1 year membership.

I will work on creating a WK FAQ sometime after the new year. Things have just been too hectic recently. Thanks for the suggestions guys!
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Unread 12-07-2007, 04:48 PM   #7
merlinTec
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Hi
Very good write up just to add a little tip and that is to remove the oil filter first as the oil in there drains into the sump when you remove it so as you had already replace the drain plug the oil would have just sat in the sump.
Regards,
Merlin
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Unread 12-07-2007, 06:30 PM   #8
mc22958
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Merlin, good advise. I did notice that after I pulled the filter out it retained some oil below the intake hole at the bottom of the filter housing. I got that out before I started adding the oil. Thanks for the advise. You previous post helped me with the oil change.
I purchased the oil from "AVLubricants" for $42.75 a case, (six quarts). Plus shipping. The total cost for ten quarts and shipping was $79.27. I forget how much I paid for the filter at the dealership. I think it was around $13.00? So the oil change ran me just short of $100.00.
I hope the oil will eventually come down in price as our engines become more widely available in the American market. (or similar motors)
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Unread 12-13-2007, 05:40 PM   #9
leicajh
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CRD Oil Change

Great info..this should be a sticky
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Unread 12-20-2007, 12:26 AM   #10
cherren
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Is the oil you guys are using C3 (low ash) compliant

I have just change my oil in my 07 CRD, (4,000KM) next time will be pulling the bash plate off & driving the jeep up on to ramps for easier access.

Is the oil you guys are using C3 (low ash) compliant in Aust we are having lots of discussion on which brand of oil to use. Jeep quote 5w30 and C3 complaint

I ended up using an Aust made oil called
Penrite Synthetic Performance HPR 0 SAE 0W-40

Perform Std's API SM/CF
Euro Stds ACEA A3/B4/C3

also on the back is this statement

"HPR 0 is designed to exceed manuf Requirements etc and in diesels equipped with exhaust catalysts and / or Diesel particulate filters (DPFs)

May also be use where SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 or 5W-40 grades are specified in the owners handbook."

This oil meets & exceeds the handbook 5w-30 (07 model) owner book.

seems the C3 rating is very important

you may find the following Aust thread interesting


http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ad.php?t=73310
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Unread 12-21-2007, 03:58 PM   #11
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Hi
Well did a service on a 3.0 CRD today so took some pictures for you guys and so decided to do a write up.
oil change
1. Removed top cover and oil cap.
2. Undone the oil filter but didn’t remove so the oil filter drains. (saves mess later)
3. Raised vehicle and removed skid plate
4. Removed drain plug and drained the oil (drain pan needs to hold at least 9.5 litres)
5. After the oil drained replaced drain plug with new washer and tightened to 30 NM.
6. Lowered vehicle and put 4.5 litres in the oil filter housing and the rest in the oil filler. This is to prevent crankshaft damage.
NOTE : it is very important not to spill any oil around the oil filler as the alternator is directly below and oil can damage it.
7. Replace oil filter cartridge and installed the new seals that came with the filter. See T.S.B http://www.wkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk_0900507.pdf Slightly oiled the new seals and reinstalled the filter into the oil filter housing and tightened to 25 NM.
8. It is now critical to wait 15 minutes before starting to allow the oil to drain down. Service manual also say wait 15 minutes after engine has run to allow the oil to return to the pan before checking the oil level.
Why I wait for this I change the fuel filter and have attached some pictures of bleeding the filter and a picture of the drain tube so you can see why the drain tube is at the top of the filter because the tube goes to the bottom of the filter.

Fuel filter change
1.Remove top cover
2.Remove fuel pipes
3. Unplug water in fuel sensor
4. Remove 3 x E10 bolts
5. Remover fuel filter
6. Remove 2 x T20 screws and remove water level sensor
7. Loosen 5mm allen bolt and remove the fuel filter from cradle
Refit in reverse order. To bleed air open up bleed screw, attach suitable pipe from the bleed screw to a container and turn on the ignition till clean fuel comes out. Close screw and remove pipe.

Regards,
Merlin

Useful info
OIL SAE VISCOSITY GRADE
An SAE Synthetic engine oil that conforms to ACEA A3/B4/C3 that is approved to MB 229.31 low ash oil
OIL CAPACITIE 9.5L (10.0 Quarts)
Drain plug torque 30 nm 22 ft-lbs
Oil filter 25 nm 18 lbs-ft with oil filter socket 9551
Tools for fuel filter change E10 socket, T20 torque socket, 5 mm allen key socket.
Perhaps some of you can add where to get oil and oil filters from.
engine.jpg   draintube.jpg   bleeding.jpg   oilfilter.jpg  
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Last edited by merlinTec; 01-01-2008 at 06:07 AM..
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Unread 12-21-2007, 04:56 PM   #12
mc22958
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Thanks for the pictures and write up Merlin.
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Unread 12-21-2007, 05:00 PM   #13
Tuco
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This is getting off topic a bit, but what's the gizmo sitting on the box pictured above the fuel filter ? Does very much water come out of the fuel filter when you purge it? Is the fuel filter pretty easy to change out?
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Unread 12-21-2007, 05:08 PM   #14
merlinTec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco
This is getting off topic a bit, but what's the gizmo sitting on the box pictured above the fuel filter ? Does very much water come out of the fuel filter when you purge it? Is the fuel filter pretty easy to change out?
Hi Tuco
Thatís the drain tube and water level sensor that goes in the fuel filter. Not had a lot of water out of one but never had one with a water in fuel fault. The fuel filter is easy to change.
Regards,
Merlin
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Unread 12-24-2007, 05:25 AM   #15
2007GrandDiesel
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Hey Merlin, I had my first oil change done at the dealer and I have no idea if they followed the correct procedure. How could I tell if they damaged the crankshaft? Would it be immediate and catastrophic damage, or will my engine give out at some point shortly after the warranty expires? Please give some more detailed info on this.
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