Hi, sorry I have 105,000 miles on it, I bought it around 95,000, and nothing was ever changed. The car ran great when I test drove it for about half an hour, but when I took it home the check engine light came on, and gave a code for the EGR. It also needed a power steering pump, and it was due for the water pump and belt.
So being I had a lot of it apart at the time I opted to change the PCV, MAP sensor, and intake manifold gaskets, but my brother broke the damn PCV in the manifold because it was stuck, so I ended up having the buy the entire manifold.
I have not changed the cam or crank sensors yet, would those cause the shaking\bucking\surging\almost stalling issue?
I drove it yesterday with no problems, and then this morning I went to grab some breakfast, and when I left the deli, it started violently shaking again, the idle dipping below 500, and then after a minute the check engine light flashed 10 or 11 times and then went off. By the time I got to work, the idle went almost back to normal again. I'm really getting frustrated because I replaced so many parts I'm running out of possibilities.
Don't feel bad as, IMO, there is nothing wrong with changing all those components, especially with that many miles on it, and the vehicle being relatively new to you. Now you will know the maintenance status, going forward.
Several have broken the PCV Valve off in the manifold, but you can get it out with an easy out, long nose pliers and a magnet.
Of all the components you've changed, the only one that could come anywhere near causing the issues you're having is the EGR Valve. Some have also gotten Chinese made valves that did not work right out of the box. Some symptoms of EGR problems, are rough, erratic, almost stalling idle, low speed (~30-50 mph) surging, poor performance and fuel economy. Also, the EGR system is not active until the engine warms up a little, so if this is the problem it would probably work better when the engine is cold and worse after it warms up. If it is not working, you should be getting some sort of P04?? DTC.
It is very possible (and IMO quite likely) that the cam and/or crank sensor could be causing your problem. That is why, IMO, it is important with any newer than 1996, all computerized vehicle to have some sort of computerized diagnostic tester. In the long run it'll save you lots of time and money (on any newer family and friends vehicles), and will easily quickly pay for itself, especially if you end up not having to take it to a dealer or independent a few times. My tester will check almost all sensors and allow reset, test, calibration, and relearn of other components.
FYI, the Cam Sensor determines which cylinder is firing to establish synchronization of the fuel injectors and the coil firing sequence in Distributorless Ignition Systems (DIS) systems like the Hemi has. The Crankshaft Sensor adjusts ignition timing, supplies the PCM with the RPM signal, and determines engine speed.
A couple other things....if you change these sensors:
---As I said, they're about $25 each.
---Be sure to follow the FSM instructions when changing them.....especially cleaning (crank sensor) and torque specs.
---There is a reset/relearn procedure that shows up on my tester. I don't know if this is absolutely necessary upon installation of new sensors though.
One other thing you may want to do before too long is change the O2 Sensors, as they're normally only good for about 100K and fail slowly, like spark plugs. They'll run about $120-150 for all four, but are a bear to change if you have a stock exhaust system. I had one go bad at 60K and did a thread on them afterwards. Here's the ref. to it, if you're interested:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/oxygen-sensors-their-role-engine-management-primer-1182446/