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Unread 01-30-2011, 03:34 PM   #1
CRD Dawg
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Elephant Hose Mod Version 2.0

Well, after about 8k miles on my first version of the Elephant Hose Mod that I adapted from the KJ forum, I decided to open up the hoses to see if they were breaking down since regular heater hose is not rated for oil/diesel. To my surprise, the hose shows no major evidence of breaking down or dissolving inside. It's a bit tacky and reeks of burnt oil but is in great condition otherwise and is flowing clearly.

Since my first version was with spare hoses from prior attempts at plumbing together the Racor 4500 that I eventually gave up on, I decided to try to find the perfect pre-contoured hoses for my application to make it as clean, simple and repeatable as possible. I plan to replace the hoses once a year because the oil vapor WILL eventually dissolve the heater hose.

You may notice I did have to cut away part of the engine cover to get clearance for the rerouted CCV hose. Also had to cut away a portion of the foam valve cover pad/insulator.

As far as oil spray or drips, there is none. The blowby looks like steam and has left no residue underneath the vehicle and has never dripped once. I'm currently at 16k miles.

Here's a list & a photo album of what I used.

1 - "Expand Tite" expanding plug to plug the hole in the intake
3 - 1" hose clamps
1 - 1" pre-molded "L" shaped hose
1 - 1" pre-molded multi-contoured hose
1 - 1" steel coupling
18 additional inches of 1" straight heater hose to complete the run beneath the vehicle

http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab316/CRDDawg/

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Unread 01-30-2011, 04:17 PM   #2
BurmaJack
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Very nice job dawg! Well done!

Thanks for taking the time to document your work
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Unread 01-30-2011, 05:05 PM   #3
merlinTec
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Very good thanks you sharing
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Unread 01-31-2011, 12:09 AM   #4
fatfreddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRD Dawg View Post
Well, after about 8k miles on my first version of the Elephant Hose Mod that I adapted from the KJ forum, I decided to open up the hoses to see if they were breaking down since regular heater hose is not rated for oil/diesel. To my surprise, the hose shows no major evidence of breaking down or dissolving inside. It's a bit tacky and reeks of burnt oil but is in great condition otherwise and is flowing clearly.

Since my first version was with spare hoses from prior attempts at plumbing together the Racor 4500 that I eventually gave up on, I decided to try to find the perfect pre-contoured hoses for my application to make it as clean, simple and repeatable as possible. I plan to replace the hoses once a year because the oil vapor WILL eventually dissolve the heater hose.

You may notice I did have to cut away part of the engine cover to get clearance for the rerouted CCV hose. Also had to cut away a portion of the foam valve cover pad/insulator.

As far as oil spray or drips, there is none. The blowby looks like steam and has left no residue underneath the vehicle and has never dripped once. I'm currently at 16k miles.

Here's a list & a photo album of what I used.

1 - "Expand Tite" expanding plug to plug the hole in the intake
3 - 1" hose clamps
1 - 1" pre-molded "L" shaped hose
1 - 1" pre-molded multi-contoured hose
1 - 1" steel coupling
18 additional inches of 1" straight heater hose to complete the run beneath the vehicle

http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab316/CRDDawg/
My hose has been on my diesel for 3 years now and still looks new.I left the rubber insulators off the valve covers because I think they would create hot spots on the valve covers.The engine isn't any louder without them.Also left the goofy plastic cover off and engine isn't any louder.They have been off for 3 years also.I like to see the engine when I open the hood.When I show people the diesel they are amazed at the complexity of it compared to older diesels.It looks like a work of art to me.Very good install and pictures on yours.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 12:30 AM   #5
BurmaJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatfreddy View Post
My hose has been on my diesel for 3 years now and still looks new.I left the rubber insulators off the valve covers because I think they would create hot spots on the valve covers.The engine isn't any louder without them.Also left the goofy plastic cover off and engine isn't any louder.They have been off for 3 years also.I like to see the engine when I open the hood.When I show people the diesel they are amazed at the complexity of it compared to older diesels.It looks like a work of art to me.Very good install and pictures on yours.
I agree with you in that this engine is a sight to behold

I'm curious if removing the engine cover/foam on the valve covers would affect the engine's ability to generate/retain heat. Any thoughts on this?
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Unread 01-31-2011, 03:38 AM   #6
Jake03KJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRD Dawg View Post
Here's a list & a photo album of what I used.

1 - "Expand Tite" expanding plug to plug the hole in the intake3 - 1" hose clamps
1 - 1" pre-molded "L" shaped hose
1 - 1" pre-molded multi-contoured hose
1 - 1" steel coupling
18 additional inches of 1" straight heater hose to complete the run beneath the vehicle

http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab316/CRDDawg/
I would recommend not using the Expand Tite plug as the Duramax Community has used this in the turbo inlet pipe to replace a resonator. The plug broke down over time and was sucked into the turbo. I don't have specifics on how long the plug lasted as this depends on the use of the vehicle and heat in the engine bay.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 05:43 AM   #7
CRD Dawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake03KJ View Post
I would recommend not using the Expand Tite plug as the Duramax Community has used this in the turbo inlet pipe to replace a resonator. The plug broke down over time and was sucked into the turbo. I don't have specifics on how long the plug lasted as this depends on the use of the vehicle and heat in the engine bay.
Thanks for the heads up. I think the brass washer is large enough to keep it from getting sucked in. It overlaps the opening pretty well. I will keep a very close eye on it, though.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 06:35 AM   #8
scootr29
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What about water getting sucked into the pipe? Especially for off roading?
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Unread 01-31-2011, 07:01 AM   #9
CRD Dawg
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Originally Posted by scootr29 View Post
What about water getting sucked into the pipe? Especially for off roading?
As long as the engine is running there should only be positive pressure coming out of the pipe. I've thought about water/debris/etc. getting into the pipe, but after 8k I have no incidences yet. My CRD will spend it's life on road only , so hopefully that won't be an issue for me. Time will tell.

I do know that most heavy duty diesel trucks have crank case vents that run beneath the trucks. I've seen them on Isuzu NPRs, Nissan UDs as well as recent Ford F550 flatbed one car hauler with a Cummins 6.7L diesel. They all simply have an open rubber hose hanging beneath the engine cradle with no cover on the end. I may put a wire mesh screen over the end to keep critters out.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 09:20 AM   #10
Larz12345
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On the debris side, I would agree with you Dawg that the positive pressure will keep things in order while running. But I am about to move to Texas. It is as dusty as you can imagine a friggin desert would be. My concern would be that, while sitting outside and not running, there would be enough dust kick up to contaminate the crankcase oil. I could be a bit over dramatic with this, but would love to know something from anyone in this kind of arid, dusty area. Maybe the solution is just changing oil more often, but i find it hard to rationalize opening a crankcase to unfiltered environment...maybe there's an inline filter that could be installed or check valve?
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Unread 01-31-2011, 09:20 AM   #11
fatfreddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurmaJack View Post
I agree with you in that this engine is a sight to behold

I'm curious if removing the engine cover/foam on the valve covers would affect the engine's ability to generate/retain heat. Any thoughts on this?
Didn't notice any differance on the heat thing.Being all aluminum they are hard to keep warm when it is -30 F.My weather front doesn't even help much.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 11:49 AM   #12
scootr29
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Also remember that you are also breaking a federal law. The EPA required closed crankcase systems in 2007.

Now what are the chances you will get caught probably .00000002%
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Unread 01-31-2011, 12:47 PM   #13
ianrmz250
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This is a great mod well done.I am considering carrying out this mod here in the uk to my CRD , i currently have a Provent rigged up but because our steering wheel is on the other side the hose run is approx. 1 meter to the Provent and another 1 meter from Provent to the Inlet hose , both hoses suffer badly from condensation i drain more water than oil.I can use my existing silicon hoses which are standing up really well to the oil vapor after 18 months & 16000 miles.
The only thing i am concerned with is can you smell the oil vapor much when driving or stationery due to venting to atmosphere ?.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 04:58 PM   #14
Jake03KJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRD Dawg View Post
Thanks for the heads up. I think the brass washer is large enough to keep it from getting sucked in. It overlaps the opening pretty well. I will keep a very close eye on it, though.
It won't be sucked into the turbo but the rubber breaks down then just disappears into the turbo damaging it. The bolt and washers are all that is left in the hole. I purchased a silicon cap rated for 600*F from McMaster Carr to cover the hole with a hose clamp on the outside. I just check it every oil change to make all is well.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 05:12 PM   #15
fatfreddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianrmz250 View Post
This is a great mod well done.I am considering carrying out this mod here in the uk to my CRD , i currently have a Provent rigged up but because our steering wheel is on the other side the hose run is approx. 1 meter to the Provent and another 1 meter from Provent to the Inlet hose , both hoses suffer badly from condensation i drain more water than oil.I can use my existing silicon hoses which are standing up really well to the oil vapor after 18 months & 16000 miles.
The only thing i am concerned with is can you smell the oil vapor much when driving or stationery due to venting to atmosphere ?.
When I did the hose when the Jeep was new I would smell it once and a while if I had a window down and the wind was blowing the right way while parked at idle.Never smelt anything while moving.Now that I have 43000 miles on the Jeep there is very little blow by and hardly ever smell it now.Glad I did this before any of the blow by crap got into the intercooler.Sure glad I live where I don't have to put up with EPA crap.If the Jeep wasn't still under warranty the catalytic and the DPF would be gone.I have a cunning plan for them when warranty is gone.
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