Drag link/Alignment Issue
Morning! Well afternoon now..
Story: Went offroading a week ago, at a pretty moderate place, that is local; long story short ended up hitting a rut a little too hard-- opened up the seal on my front right tire (bead) and threw my alignment (along with my steering location) off significantly. I must admit it was the best off roading experience I have ever had...the results lead to a loss in my pocket $$$ :laugh:
Problem: I need help finding the drag link ( I have no experience with suspension/steering ), I was able to get underneath the truck today and I believe I might have found it. I also went to belle tire to get an alignment and they were unable to service my truck because of a "seized bolt" on the lower control arm--they refused to be specific.
I need help with restoring my vehicle back to ground zero!
hopefully this can be useful for some others as well
Does anyone recommended a shop?
1st you don't have a drag link.
Sounds like,a from the looks of the pics, you have seized bolts and/or tie rod end and jam nut.Happens when you don't wash the undercarriage at least once every 2 weeks in the winter with salt use.Just have them replace the parts and get a alignment.Any shop can do this job.
I can do it all myself, the problem is I can't identify what's faulty and what's not.
Thanks a lot for the response!!!
might be just me , but looks likehe problem as you said is on the right , but are those not pics of the LEFT-drivers side ??
anyways , if you want to give it a go here's the alignment form the service manual .
CAMBER, CASTER AND TOE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: SUSPENSION HEIGHT MEASUREMENT MUST BE PERFORMED BEFORE AN ALIGNMENT.
Camber and caster angle adjustments involve changing the position of the lower control arm with the slots in the
frame brackets to move the lower control arm inwards or outwards for proper adjustment. This can be achieved by
using a long pry bar with a curved tip and inserting the pry bar into the lower control arm frame brackets
and prying inwards or outwards.
NOTE: Camber and caster adjustments must be made at the lower control arm Do not use the upper control
arm for Camber and Caster adjustments.
NOTE: When the lower control arm pivot bolts are loosened the lower control arm will normally go outwards
automatically with the weight of the vehicle.
Moving the rear position of the lower control arm at the frame in or out, will change the caster angle significantly
and camber angle only slightly. To maintain the camber angle while adjusting caster, move the rear of the lower
control arm in or out. Then move the front of the lower control arm slightly in the opposite direction.
Move both the front and rear of the lower control arm together in or out. This will change the camber angle significantly
and caster angle slightly.
After adjustment is made tighten the lower control arm bolt & nuts to FRONT169 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) and the REAR
88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.).
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final adjustment.
1. Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before
straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
2. Loosen the tie rod jam nuts .
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification.
This will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straightahead.
3. Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the inner
tie rod as necessary.
4. Tighten the tie rod jam nut to 75N·m (55 ft. lbs.).
5. Verify the specifications.
6. Turn off engine.
Thank you so much. So the bolt on the lower control arm (one that tends to seize for people adding lifts) is the problem? If so I need to get those drilled out anyway because I can't put on my lift.
Thank you so much for the help guys.
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