"The Dark Knight" WK build - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 154 Old 01-09-2016, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 188
I never had uconnect, but the new head unit allows calls through the speakers, and I can talk through the included microphone, which I have mounted behind the sun visor.


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post #62 of 154 Old 01-13-2016, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 188
Here is the full step by step write up of how I did the expanded sheet metal grill mod. Should take about 3 hours.

1. I purchased a bottle of Rustoleum spray bedliner, 2 sheets of 12”x24” expanded sheet metal, and 18x 1/4"-20 x 2” screws with 1/4"-20 lock nuts. The tools I used were a phillips head screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, a power drill with 1/4" bit, a flat file, wire cutters, tin cutters, a tape measure, a pocket knife, pliers, and a 7/16” wrench.

2. The first thing I did was paint the sheets of expanded sheet metal. Between coats, I removed the grill by removing the 6 pins on the top with a flathead screwdriver. The outer layers of the grill have tabs that need to be pushed back and worked off the layer underneath, also using a flat head screwdriver.
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3. The original thin vertical bars need to be cut out, and I used the tin cutters to do so. Wire cutters work as well, but the tin cutters make it a lot easier. After all sections were cut out, I used a file to smooth out the little nubs remaining.

4. Drilling holes is next. On the 6 wide pillars on the grill, I measured and marked lines with a pocket knife at 1”, 4”, and 6” on each one. I then used a 1/4” drill bit to make the holes, totaling 18.
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5. At this time, I had applied 2 coats of bedliner to the expanded sheet metal and allowed it to dry. I then picked the better looking side, and matched it directly to the rear side of the grill with the “bad” side facing up, and the front of the grill facing down. I used the pocket knife to scrape off some bedliner along the links that I needed to cut in order to make the expanded sheet metal fit. The first piece covers 4 slots, and the second piece covers 3, with an overlap in the middle of pillar 3 or 4. Once the lines were marked, I used the tin cutters to cut the marked joints, and cleaned up the sharp ends with wire cutters. When cutting, use pliers to peel the cut layers away for the section you are going to use.

6. When both sheets are cut, position them where they were laid for marking cut lines. Place all 18 screws in their respective holes with a lock nut for each one. You may need to work the screws through different angles, depending on how the expanded sheet metal holes line up with the drilled holes. From here, use the 7/16’” wrench to hold the lock nut, and tighten the screws with a phillips head screwdriver until the screw is immobile in any direction. Be careful to not tighten too much, as the grill can start to bend.
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7. With all screws in place, you can now reapply the outer layers of the grill. Make sure to place pressure above the tabs to snap them back into place. Once both layers are reattached, place it back onto the car and put all 6 pins back in.

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post #63 of 154 Old 01-15-2016, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 188
Found another WK on campus today! Is this anyone one here?
(Ohio Northern University)




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post #64 of 154 Old 02-03-2016, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
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I'm strongly considering removing my front air dam. Only thing is, I'm not getting the 4xGuard armor to cover the veiw of the parts under the front for a while. So, does removing the air dam on 08-10 wk's look unfinished without having something to somewhat replaced the void?

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post #65 of 154 Old 02-03-2016, 08:15 PM
JakeWK
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Fresno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armor_LG View Post
I'm strongly considering removing my front air dam. Only thing is, I'm not getting the 4xGuard armor to cover the veiw of the parts under the front for a while. So, does removing the air dam on 08-10 wk's look unfinished without having something to somewhat replaced the void?
When I initially removed my valence, I thought it looked unfinished as well. I bedlined the exposed metal to give it a more finished look and protect from corrosion as well. Sorry couldn't scrounge up any pictures of it, but it made the front look a little cleaner until my front skid arrived. Also, when I did my mesh grill mod, I installed it in the lower valence as well, to protect the lower radiator section and keep the front uniform.
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post #66 of 154 Old 02-10-2016, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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3 of the 5 WKs on campus parked together.
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post #67 of 154 Old 02-10-2016, 02:35 PM
JakeWK
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3 of the 5 WKs on campus parked together.
Plotting to take over the world!!

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post #68 of 154 Old 02-10-2016, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Plotting to take over the world!!
Ssshhh! The wranglers on campus will hear

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post #69 of 154 Old 02-25-2016, 03:01 PM
WK_ArmorLG
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Cincinnati
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Removed the lower air dam today. 4xGuard front armor just moved up the list too.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1456437628

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1456437628

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1456437628
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2010 WK Laredo 4x4 3.7L - 255/55r18 Nito Terra Grapplers AT
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post #70 of 154 Old 02-28-2016, 09:33 PM
WK_ArmorLG
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So it snowed recently in Ohio, and I decided while driving down the road that going through a little snow would be fun. Turns out there was a ditch under the snow, and in the process of trying to drive out I dug myself in. Luckily a Super Duty was rolling around and gave me a hand. Tow hooks and tow strap looked great. Video below, sadly didn't start until I was about to get pulled out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV6vQqAn9AM

2010 WK Laredo 4x4 3.7L - 255/55r18 Nito Terra Grapplers AT
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post #71 of 154 Old 03-15-2016, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 188
Finally changed my fog light switch to an OTRATTW one.
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post #72 of 154 Old 03-15-2016, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 188
So I have 100% officially decided to lift my jeep this May/early June. List:
- Bilstein 5100s front
- Bilstein 5125s rear
- OME MD coils all around
- Cooper Discoverer AT3 265/70r18

Do I need to get JBA UCA's as well?

Trying to shoot for front 22.5" and rear 23.0" middle of hub to fender. Will this setup get me there with 3.7L, RRO super sliders, 4xGuard front armor, 4xGuard Matrix brush guard base only, and full size spare on roof rack?

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post #73 of 154 Old 03-25-2016, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 188
Made the decision to remove the bug guard today. It started to look like a bad mustache, and I couldn't take it lol. Also purchased and put on my ORT badge, and it looks great! A tiny bit crooked, but that's what I get for putting in on in the dark. American flag vinyls waiting for warmer weather to go onto the rear side windows as well.
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Bug guard removed side.jpg   Bug guard removed.jpg   ORT badge.jpg   ORT badge closeup.jpg   American flags pre-install.jpg  


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post #74 of 154 Old 03-26-2016, 04:33 PM
bensylrm
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: St Joseph
Posts: 469
Where did you find the ORT badge?

05 WK 4.7 OME HD F150 MLL's, BFG MT 255/75-17. Lots of stickers, lights EVERYWHERE!
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post #75 of 154 Old 03-28-2016, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 188
Custom ordered!

www.ReBadgeDesign.com
ReBadge@yahoo.com

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