"The Dark Knight" WK build - Page 10 - JeepForum.com
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post #136 of 159 Old 01-31-2017, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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2010 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 194
Should be getting pics posted of the CB antenna wiring and the rear lights wiring later this week. Also some close shots on the "GRAND CHEROKEE" trim and gas door.

This spring is going to focus on some lighting, wheel stuff, and other details. After that I'm going to focus on protection. Current order of plans:
January-June
- LED high beam bulbs
- Reverse LED bulbs
- LED tail light bulbs
- Spray tint tail lights
- Tailgate struts
- Roof rack light bar
- TSA secure center console (turning 21 in April, so CHL time)
- Rear fender roll
- Fab @Omelet style spare carrier
July-December
- TSA sliders
- 4xGuard rear skid
- 4xGuard 10 bolt rear differential cover
- Fastman 4.7L ported TB
- AFE power magnum for 4.7L
- Sprint booster

Next year should include a Modded Superlift as a gift to me from me for graduating college in May 2018.

Even though I won't be getting it soon, I have modded superlift questions:
- Normally with modded superlifts, people cut a coil on their HD springs. Will I have to do the same with my MD springs to achieve 25" hub to fender with the SL kit & Bilstein 5100s at 0.75"?
- Bilstein 5125 shocks in the rear have more travel than superlift shocks?
- Rusty's adjustable track bar setting? Currently at 40 11/16"
- Common install issues? Gas tank skid, cross member, rear track bar? etc. I don't know the details.
- Best double cardan drive shaft? I've seen Carolina having matching/fitment issues recently.
- Anything else I need to be aware of?

I plan on regear to 3.73 or 4.10, double cardan drive shaft, 1.25" wheel spacers, and removing the rear sway bar.

Feel free to answer one thing or everything, all responses are welcome!

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post #137 of 159 Old 03-14-2017, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 194
So I just came off of my spring break, and I got some stuff done. I installed strongarm lift gate and glass hatch struts since all 4 were practically dead, and it's a major upgrade. I finally changed my rear trunk light mod from that useless blue to white, so I can finally see at night (very easily I might add).

img_3961.jpg

Here are some pictures I took of my CV angles, and one with my mom's WK2.

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I got bored over break and pulled off my rear sway bar. The bolts were a b**** and a half on the driver's side, and so was finding a way to pull it out, but it's off. I would highly recommend taking off the links first. When driving (aggressively on turns to test it), it had a tiny bit more body roll, but nothing I would worry about. While doing this, I discovered that I have the OEM fuel tank skid even though my WK isn't OEM towing package or trail rated, so that saves me $300!

From the rear axle back I decided to brush off the surface rust from my underbody with the airtools, give it a coat of underbody coating and a coat of bedliner on top of that. It looks much cleaner now, and I feel a little more comfortable driving it around in Ohio for the next couple of years.

I tried to tune my CB, but it didn't work. I have a Uniden 520xl, SWR tuner, firestick cable and 2ft firestick antenna with the spring. The cable is coiled a few times under my driver's seat since it was a little long. It is wired directly to the battery, and no matter what I tried tuning I couldn't get any power increases on the SWR tuner. Can someone walk me through it?

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post #138 of 159 Old 03-14-2017, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 194
The order of events above is being altered in a major way. I happened to mention to my mom that I was getting a new lift after I graduated, and she got mad at me. So, I had to explain that the current modded OME lift has multiple parts at risk of breaking. Since I said "at risk of breaking" I am now being forced to go to the modded superlift this May-June. My bank account isn't very happy though.

For the Modded Superlift, I plan on using almost all of my current components to achieve around 25" hub to fender. I am currently at 22.5". The rear should be near 25" with the superlift 4" coil, bilstein 5125s, rusty's 2" spacer and ATB. Only problem in the front is that I have Bilstein 5100s at 0.75" and OME MD springs with only a 4xGuard front skid and matrix, and my rough math has me at 26" ish.

- Cut a coil off of my MD springs to achieve 25" hub to fender in the front? New coils? Miscalculation?
- Where to cut the gas tank skid, and how much?
- Anything else I need to buy or do?

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post #139 of 159 Old 03-14-2017, 11:45 PM
azzkicker
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Beaverton
Posts: 639
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armor_LG View Post
Initially when I went to install the tow hooks, I intended on using the set of holes on the right. Once I examined the holes, I realized they were not reachable from the back without removing the front bumper completely, so I decided against using them and moved to the hole just to the inside. These holes were practically self tapping, and the nuts held on behind. Only downsides were that I couldn't fit the air tools into the space, and there is no hole to the rear for mounting. Instead, I just out the second set of screws in and I'm relying on them to prevent and turning, if that ever happens.

*WOULD NOT RECOMMEND*




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You aren't planning to use those as tow hooks, are you? I would expect them to bend your cross member or tear out that bolt and leave an ugly spot. Not to mention, I'd expect the tow hook to snap up and break the window of whoever is pulling you out. People get testy when they try to help you and parts of your jeep fly through theirs.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #140 of 159 Old 03-15-2017, 12:51 AM
azzkicker
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Sorry for the hook question, since I've now read the rest of your thread. I'm glad nobody was hurt and I like how your build is turning out.

I have the superlift, and I had the driveline hit the fuel tank skid, which it seems you're aware of. This picture should give you a clue how much to cut off the skid plate.

My build thread is "the badger" if you want to look at what the superlift with 33X10" tires looks like. I bought rims with nearly the maximum backspacing that superlift said I could have. I don't like the nose down angle, which mirrors the stock, although I think the lift came with new rear coils and uses my old stock fronts, so new stock coils might bring it up a little.

On your re-gearing thought, I would say don't change just to get 3.73, which is what I have. I want 4.10, and would want more if it was available.

I ordered, but haven't received, an FMJ rear winch mount bumper with spare tire carrier to solve my spare storage issue.

I like your build. What are you going to do with your winch? I have an ARB winch mount front bumper, which I like just fine. If I had it to do over, I would look for something more stylish like the FMJ bumper. They are making my rear bumper custom, and they're using the metal pasja bumper style for inspiration since I told them I like those. I would have ordered the metal pasja set, but had no faith in shipping from Poland and saw another build where a guy had those and they said the fit was terrible, like the bumper brackets didn't even fit their own bumper, much less line up properly on the jeep.

If you're still considering the hemi with QD2, it's awesome. I wouldn't trade down for anything. I drove a number of V-8 options (non-jeep as well) before I happened across a beat hemi and drove it. Then I was only looking for a hemi, just not one with so many miles (the hemi was fine, but the jeep was shot).

Are you going to be wheeling this thing much?

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #141 of 159 Old 03-15-2017, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by azzkicker View Post
Sorry for the hook question, since I've now read the rest of your thread. I'm glad nobody was hurt and I like how your build is turning out.

I have the superlift, and I had the driveline hit the fuel tank skid, which it seems you're aware of. This picture should give you a clue how much to cut off the skid plate.

My build thread is "the badger" if you want to look at what the superlift with 33X10" tires looks like. I bought rims with nearly the maximum backspacing that superlift said I could have. I don't like the nose down angle, which mirrors the stock, although I think the lift came with new rear coils and uses my old stock fronts, so new stock coils might bring it up a little.

On your re-gearing thought, I would say don't change just to get 3.73, which is what I have. I want 4.10, and would want more if it was available.

I ordered, but haven't received, an FMJ rear winch mount bumper with spare tire carrier to solve my spare storage issue.

I like your build. What are you going to do with your winch? I have an ARB winch mount front bumper, which I like just fine. If I had it to do over, I would look for something more stylish like the FMJ bumper. They are making my rear bumper custom, and they're using the metal pasja bumper style for inspiration since I told them I like those. I would have ordered the metal pasja set, but had no faith in shipping from Poland and saw another build where a guy had those and they said the fit was terrible, like the bumper brackets didn't even fit their own bumper, much less line up properly on the jeep.

If you're still considering the hemi with QD2, it's awesome. I wouldn't trade down for anything. I drove a number of V-8 options (non-jeep as well) before I happened across a beat hemi and drove it. Then I was only looking for a hemi, just not one with so many miles (the hemi was fine, but the jeep was shot).

Are you going to be wheeling this thing much?
Thanks for the pictures of your fuel tank skid! I've been following your thread and like where you're going with it.

I was considering the 3.73s since I'm only in a V6 and its an upgrade regardless. Are there any negatives to getting 4.10s once I get 34s or 35s?

For the spare, I'm planning on having my friend help me build the spare carrier Omelet built for his WK. It's not a steel bumper, just a frame mounted arm on a stock bumper.

Currently I don't plan on getting a steel front bumper anytime soon, but if I need it (accident, etc.) I would probably go with the Crawl Offroad bumper. I like its more simple look. I sold the winch to a friend since its mounting was a little messed up and I'm not planning on getting steel bumpers for a while. When I get the bumper, I'll get a new or better condition Warn.

I am not looking to get a different WK at this point since I can't justify a need for power to take the financial loss from the parts in my current. I am not going to be wheeling this often, but I definitely will! More likely going to be overlanding to camp somewhere normal vehicles couldn't or just messing around, but not on serious trails.

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post #142 of 159 Old 03-15-2017, 05:42 PM
JakeWK
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Fresno
Posts: 1,174
Looks great so far man! I wish I could claim "safety" as a reason to push up the due date for my SL also haha.

-Why wouldn't you just get rear 6" coils, like the JBA ones or something, instead of using the SL 4" coils and a 2" spacer. It would be nice to get rid of the spacer, and also I have seen on a few threads some pretty poor reviews of the SL coils. I had the SL coils for a while, and found them to be a bit soft for my liking, currently run 4" JBA coils and love them. Just a thought.

-Looks like you got answers about cutting your fuel skid. Good luck! Practice safe cutting haha.

-For the front, you would probably be better off cutting a coil off your MD. I don't think your math is off, and with the light 4.7 you might ride higher than the 5.7 guys that are cutting coils off the HD. You planning to use the front pre-load spacer? If you got a heavy steel front bumper nd winch setup, you might get your MDs to come down to 25" haha
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post #143 of 159 Old 03-15-2017, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeWK View Post
Looks great so far man! I wish I could claim "safety" as a reason to push up the due date for my SL also haha.

-Why wouldn't you just get rear 6" coils, like the JBA ones or something, instead of using the SL 4" coils and a 2" spacer. It would be nice to get rid of the spacer, and also I have seen on a few threads some pretty poor reviews of the SL coils. I had the SL coils for a while, and found them to be a bit soft for my liking, currently run 4" JBA coils and love them. Just a thought.

-Looks like you got answers about cutting your fuel skid. Good luck! Practice safe cutting haha.

-For the front, you would probably be better off cutting a coil off your MD. I don't think your math is off, and with the light 4.7 you might ride higher than the 5.7 guys that are cutting coils off the HD. You planning to use the front pre-load spacer? If you got a heavy steel front bumper nd winch setup, you might get your MDs to come down to 25" haha
I've heard of the JBA 6" coils bending, so that's why I haven't considered them. I don't plan on getting a steel bumper or winch anytime soon, so I want it to look right without them. Would the preload spacer make it taller in the front?

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post #144 of 159 Old 03-18-2017, 04:23 AM
azzkicker
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Beaverton
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I don't see any negative to going to 4.10, but I don't care about gas mileage and that might be affected at higher freeway speeds (but if you're that worried about gas, you should be going a few under the speed limit). With an overdrive, you get low rpm either way. I'm skeptical that it would affect mileage, but that seems to be the industry reasoning for ****ty gear ratios, so there probably is something to it, but it might only help if you drive a certain way.

Since these are all ratios of distance traveled per rpm (in end result), you can do some math to see where you would land. You need to know the diameter of your stock tires. You can use the ratio of stock tire diameter to the tire diameter you want to see how much worse your gears will feel. Then compare your stock ratio to the ratio you want in order to see what ratio gets you back to stock (or better). That will give you some hard numbers to make a decision with.

Here's how my ratios pan out, so you can see what I mean:

Stock tire diameter was 30" for me, I believe. I went to 33.3", so that changed ratios by 33.3/30= 1.11. I have 3.73 gears stock, and I'm considering 4.1 (that's as high as anybody makes for these, I'm told). So, 4.1/3.7=1.099, so that means going to 4.10 gears will almost exactly put me back to stock drive ratios, almost but not quite.

You can use the same ratio comparison to evaluate your gearing choice, as long as you're consistent (put the new on top both times, or put it on the bottom both times).

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #145 of 159 Old 03-18-2017, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azzkicker View Post
Since these are all ratios of distance traveled per rpm (in end result), you can do some math to see where you would land. You need to know the diameter of your stock tires. You can use the ratio of stock tire diameter to the tire diameter you want to see how much worse your gears will feel. Then compare your stock ratio to the ratio you want in order to see what ratio gets you back to stock (or better). That will give you some hard numbers to make a decision with.

Here's how my ratios pan out, so you can see what I mean:

Stock tire diameter was 30" for me, I believe. I went to 33.3", so that changed ratios by 33.3/30= 1.11. I have 3.73 gears stock, and I'm considering 4.1 (that's as high as anybody makes for these, I'm told). So, 4.1/3.7=1.099, so that means going to 4.10 gears will almost exactly put me back to stock drive ratios, almost but not quite.

You can use the same ratio comparison to evaluate your gearing choice, as long as you're consistent (put the new on top both times, or put it on the bottom both times).
Using the same ratios, I get stock 29.5s vs future 34.5s, so 34.5 / 29.5 = 1.169 . My stock gears are 3.07, so 4.10 / 3.07 = 1.335 , or 3.73 / 3.07 = 1.215 .So the 3.73 would put me closer to stock ratios than the 4.10s. I'll take your 3.73s when you make the switch!

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post #146 of 159 Old 04-06-2017, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Location: Cincinnati
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I've been doing lots of research on the SuperLift, and it's not looking ideal. With my WK as my daily driver, the fact that I am in college, and the fact that I do not plan on wheeling more than maybe twice a year led me to decide that I should not purchase a SuperLift. Besides the actual kit and installation ($3K at least), I would additionally need a new driveline, new tires (32s would be too small for 5-6"), would end up buying rear adjustable control arms to adjust the axle location, have to regear, and advanced wear on stock components. This cost is not something I can justify just for looks, and I need to keep it on the road instead of jack stands since it's my only vehicle.

Instead, I'm going to focus on the rest of my build. I am looking into getting Superlift rear coils and raising my Bilstein 5100s to the 1.5" setting so I can get about 23.25" hub to fender in the front and 23.5" hub to fender in the rear after the coils settle. I know this is above the safe 22.5", but since I don't wheel, I think my steering rack, CVs, and driveline will not suffer. I hope to be adding TSA sliders and the Omelet style spare carrier this summer, which will probably bring the suspension down a little more.

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post #147 of 159 Old 04-06-2017, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Location: Cincinnati
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Last week I acquired an AFE cold air intake for a 4.7L for half off. It said used, but it looks brand new! Only issue is that I wanted to remove the resonator box, but I got the intake for the 05-07 WK which didn't include the resonator delete pipe, so I plan on contacting AFE to purchase one. Also, I'm looking into buying a 4.7 electronic TB. The diameter is 0.5" greater than the 3.7L TB and bolts right on! It should work well with the intake.

I also went out on a limb and bought an eBay 32" light bar for my roof rack for $27 as the bid closed. If it works, great! If it doesn't work so well, I won't cry myself to sleep since I'm not going to rely on it. It says IP68, but I'm prepared for moisture to enter the lens, so I plan on using silicone grease and heat to seal it completely if any complications arise. I'm looking into buying a 22" for cheap as well so I can mount it on my matrix in the lower gap.

Since I found that I have the fuel tank skid already, I am looking for the steel OEM front skid and transfer case skids to cover everything up. Even though I don't plan on wheeling very much at all, I'd like to feel safe. I'm still lost when it comes to my CB.

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post #148 of 159 Old 04-07-2017, 10:22 AM
4xBDR28
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Salt Lake City
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What about your CB are you having issue with?
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post #149 of 159 Old 04-27-2017, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
Armor_LG
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 194
Over the Easter weekend, I installed the light bar and cleaned up my switch wiring. After being in the rain multiple times, the light bar has had no moisture, and is pretty damn bright too. I am very impressed by the product since I spent only $27 on it.

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I also got the TSA locking center console and installed it. Very quick install.

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I finally got pictures of my painted trim and the painted rear end.

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post #150 of 159 Old 04-29-2017, 07:12 PM
siftwinnow
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Grand Rapids
Posts: 77
Looks great. I think either the Stillen headlight covers or--even better--the blacked out Spyder headlights, would be a great addition to the blacked out look. And a pair of silvered amber 3157 lights in the parking lights would be cool as well to hide the orange tint reflection. I did both to my WK and I think it updated the look.

What did you use to color the "Grand Cherokee" in black? I have been thinking about doing that to mine.

Lastly, how do you like the secure console? I was considering that as well because i like to leave the windows down on my WK when I park in the summer, but then I remembered that the glovebox locks so I decided against it. But I am still thinking it over.
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