CRD Swirl Motor Project Thread - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 376 Old 03-03-2011, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
Tuco
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CRD Swirl Motor Project Thread

We just got the dreaded swirl motor P2015 error on our 2007 CRD. The Jeep is out of warranty so it will have to be a home project.

Later Edit: I have added a step by step procedure that I used in another thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/w...ocess-1226819/

First, I have to rebuild the rear axle on my diesel Scout so I can have a daily driver. Once the Scout gets back on the road it will be time to start tearing down the engine on the Jeep.


1. Should I just replace the swirl motor or should I go all the way and take off the intake manifold? Should I put the manifold from my other engine on it? That could save a lot of cleaning.

Answer: After removing swirl motor, check manifold swirl linkage for smooth operation. If its gummed up, the manifolds should be removed and cleaned or replaced.

2. Would it be easiest to remove the hood first or does that really help much?

Duh, No hood removal necessary.

3. Do you know if there is a write up? I have no manual and cant find a CRD manual anywhere? Any chance you could PM or email me a scan of your procedure for removing the intake?

Here is my write up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/w...ocess-1226819/

4. Anything else we should do or replace while we have it apart?

If you remove the intake manifolds, you should replace the o-ring that connects between the EGR cooler and LHS intake manifold. Use all new gaskets.

I promise to take lots of pictures and give a good write-up with all the details so other home mechanics can see how its done. I'm thinking of starting with the spare engine that is on an engine stand. I would take it apart to the point of removing the manifold. This would give me practice before taking on the engine in the Jeep.

Guess we should have invested in that provent or raccor! Well it will certainly be on there by the time we are done with this repair. A provent or raccor probably would not prevent the swirl motor failure.


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post #2 of 376 Old 03-03-2011, 10:33 PM
fatfreddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco View Post
Hey all you CRD owners. We just got the dreaded swirl motor P2015 error on our 2007 CRD. The Jeep is out of warranty so it will have to be a home project. Fortunately I still have the spare engine with all the needed parts. The engine hydrolocked with only 1000 miles on it. Lots of questions here, fortunately we have time on our side.

First, I have to rebuild the rear axle on my diesel Scout so I can have a daily driver. Once the Scout gets back on the road it will be time to start tearing down the engine on the Jeep.

I have some questions for Merlintech in case he is about:

1. Should I just replace the swirl motor or should I go all the way and take off the intake manifold? Should I put the manifold from my other engine on it? That could save a lot of cleaning.

2. Would it be easiest to remove the hood first or does that really help much?

3. Do you know if there is a write up? I have no manual and cant find a CRD manual anywhere? Any chance you could PM or email me a scan of your procedure for removing the intake?

4. Anything else we should do or replace while we have it apart?

I promise to take lots of pictures and give a good write-up with all the details so other home mechanics can see how its done. Im thinking of starting with the spare engine that is on an engine stand. I would take it apart to the point of removing the manifold. This would give me practice before taking on the engine in the Jeep.

Guess we should have invested in that provent or raccor! Well it will certainly be on there by the time we are done with this repair.
Check out my reply to your CRD--ETC Throttle Control Error post.Good luck on the warranty claim.That's why I baught an extra bumper to bumper warranty when I baught the lease out 2 Novembers ago so I don't have to worry about stuff like this.
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post #3 of 376 Old 03-03-2011, 10:37 PM
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You are a brave man - and lucky one too - what with a spare CRD to tinker with! I for one will be following your progress with interest. If there is anything I can do to help I will, but for now, being I don't know squat, I will just hang back and observe.

Hopefully Merlin will chime in and lend some guidance.

Good Luck

EDIT: I guess you'd be luckier if you would not have had these troubles to begin with.

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post #4 of 376 Old 03-04-2011, 06:01 AM
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Best of luck. I will follow this with great interest. Please take good pictures of what gooped up swirl flaps look like. I think Merlin did just that at some point in the past.

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post #5 of 376 Old 03-04-2011, 08:38 AM
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you would be only the second person that has attempted the repair on his/her own that I'm aware of. Everyone else has done it at the dealer. As I recall, The person that did attempt it himself was a mechanic and access to tools and a shop to work out of and even he said it took 2 days. I remember asking him to post pictures and part information in the thread but he never did. Just search this forum for "swirl" and you should be able to find his thread.

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post #6 of 376 Old 03-17-2011, 09:01 PM
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i have performed this repair three times and have managed to do it without
removing the turbo.you need apick to remove the clips,rubber rings to hold them in place when you refit.the difficult part is removing the linkage end.
scribe the linkage so when it has to be refitted it goes back exactly where it came from and do not loose the spring.all in it takes acouple of hours to do.
the three that i have done have all run no problem and never had a problem with the swirl pot since
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post #7 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 05:03 AM
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How many miles? My blow by has either been vented or filtered for quite awhile, but the first 20,000 miles was sucking oil. We have 49,000 now, but I really wish I would have sorted out the blow by sooner.

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post #8 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by expathemi View Post
i have performed this repair three times and have managed to do it without
removing the turbo.you need apick to remove the clips,rubber rings to hold them in place when you refit.the difficult part is removing the linkage end.
scribe the linkage so when it has to be refitted it goes back exactly where it came from and do not loose the spring.all in it takes acouple of hours to do.
the three that i have done have all run no problem and never had a problem with the swirl pot since
Yea some more details on the 3 that you did...miles, years, etc..did they have the new black seal?

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post #9 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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I don't see how you can get the swirl valve out without either removing the turbo or breaking the hard plastic wiring harness that goes under the turbo. Do you have some pictures that show how you did this repair without removing the Turbo or breaking the wiring harness?

I will be removing all of these parts on my spare engine today and will post pictures of the process later today. Ive got the best view of these parts with the engine on the stand and I honestly can not see how one can do this swap without removing the Turbo. I will know better once I dismantle the top end. I plan to remove the intake manifold.

After reading how difficult this job was for a professional mechanic (mr12volt), I decided to chicken out on doing the swirl repair this time. The dealer will do the job for $1250 including parts. Ouch! However, Chrysler will provide a 3 year 50,000 mile warranty on the part and that includes labor to install. But hopefully the elephant hose mod that I install next week will prevent any future failure.

If it fails after the 3 year warranty, I will do the job myself next time.

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post #10 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, now I do see how one could remove and replace the swirl motor without removing the turbo or breaking the wiring harness. As the other person stated, it would require a prong/hook/poker thingy. Like a dentists 90 degree poker. But it would be really tricky to get the plastic clips in their place without dropping or breaking them. I ended up taking the turbo off and then the swirl motor removal is very simple. I took some other parts off too just because it made access easier, but I can see how these parts are not totally necessary. Im speaking of the metal fuel line that connects between the fuel rails and possibly the fuel filter bracket. However, these parts just took a few minutes to remove so its recommended to remove them.

It took about an hour and 15 minutes to remove the fuel filter bracket, Passenger side fuel rail, fuel crossover line, Turbo and then Swirl motor. The most difficult part is removing the Turbo to Y pipe bolts. I got away with using the incorrect sockets. If I did this with engine in, I would definitely get the correct sockets for these bolts, I think Merlintec says they are E10 and E12, Here is a picture of the torx sockets :

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBVO/

I dont recommend using such cheap sockets. These bolts are tight and awkward to get at. You want a quality tool , you definitely dont want to strip or break one of these bolts!

The E10 is for the EGR flex pipe. I would recommend removing the EGR flex pipe as it makes accessing one of the Y bolts easier.

Im going to pull the Jeep into my shop and see how long it takes to gain access to the backside of the Turbo. I cant even see these bolts without removing some stuff. Maybe its easiest from underneath?

Here are some pictures. If you want other views or close ups let me know.









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post #11 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 03:03 PM
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Tuco the last pic is the swirl motor?

And do you have a part # for the swirl motor? I may order one just in case.

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post #12 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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I wouldnt buy one now since they might redesign it later.

For fun I tried to install the swirl clips and swirl motor with turbo on. No way. Okay maybe this guy found a neat little trick, but I couldn't do it. I dropped those stupid plastic clips about 10 times. I ended up having to remove the intake manifolds to recover the clips.

I just got the intake manifolds off the engine. It took a couple of hours, its kind of a jig saw puzzle. It would taken all day with the engine in the Jeep.

I still cant figure out how to access the Turbo to Y bolts behind the turbo. Maybe it needs to be on a rack and these bolts can be taken out from underneath. I'm glad I decided to let the dealer do this. I hope they put anti-seize on new bolts when reinstalling the turbo.

I can see why one of Merlintec's technicians drops the engine and tranny to access these turbo bolts. I wonder how hard that is to do with Jacks and Jack Stands?

I cant find a CRD shop manual anywhere. That would be very helpful. Anyone know where a CRD shop manual can be purchased?

I havent seen any posts from Merlintec for a while. Hopefully he will get back here again to give some advice on Turbo removal. If I can find an efficient way to get the turbo off, I would be very happy!

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post #13 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Later...


I think we need to find a way to do what expathemi did and hopefully make the process easier and such that losing parts is not possible.

So my plan now is to put the intake manifolds and turbo back on the engine. Then I will experiment with different ways to install the clips into the swirl motor with the turbo and wiring harness in place.

One idea is to use some thread to pull the clips into the square holes of the swirl linkage ( swirl motor side). I liked expathemi's idea of using little o-rings to hold the two halves of the clips together. The o-ring would just roll out of place as the clip gets pressed in. Maybe a custom L shaped tool or maybe a long allen wrench to pull the clip upward into the swirl motor linkage hole.

Anyway, I will try to come up with a procedure that makes it a bullet-proof straight forward replacement.

Here are some of the challenges in more detail:

The linkage at the motor is spring loaded so hopefully the clips can get pulled into place without having to rotate swirl motor. I guess one could figure out a way to rotate this part, but I don't want to tweak the motor.

Those little clips and linkages can easily fall into the engine compartment. Once they do, you wont get them back without removing the intake manifolds. I think one could stuff small shop rags into the cracks to essentially plug up the areas where stuff could fall thru. I'm pretty sure this will work. It is a must do part of the job since the probability of dropping something at least once is close to one.

With the turbo and wiring harness in place, the area is tight and I'm not sure if I can fit my hands in there to get clips into place even with tools. I guess that's where the specially shaped tool and thread might help. Its going to be the trickiest part of the job.

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post #14 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 06:35 PM
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Tuco,

1-Keep the pics & updates coming!

2-D@mn, I wish I didn't live on the opposite corner of the US. I'd drive 500 miles and pay $$ to watch this unfold.

3-Where the he!! did you find a spare OM642? These things are expensive! That thing looks brand new!

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post #15 of 376 Old 03-18-2011, 06:59 PM
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Where and when are they going to redesign the swirl motor...has this been mentioned anywhere? Does Mercedes have a new design...please advise.

And thanks for tutorial...we need to get more details from expathemi...

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