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Unread 06-16-2011, 12:59 PM   #16
Chirpz
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Orange seal

Thanks for the added info, Scooter. I did not know the specifics of the problem until I examined my seal and it became obvious. I did buy a new seal today but it looks the same. Since I'm doing an elephant hose, I hope it will no longer be an issue.


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Unread 06-16-2011, 03:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirpz View Post
Thanks for the added info, Scooter. I did not know the specifics of the problem until I examined my seal and it became obvious. I did buy a new seal today but it looks the same. Since I'm doing an elephant hose, I hope it will no longer be an issue.
I do not think you can buy the seal by itself...you need to buy the entire air tube with the black seal.....

Orange = bad

Black = good
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Unread 06-16-2011, 04:09 PM   #18
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Hi All..

Does anyone have the part number for the improved tube and seal? Is there an on line resource to buy this at a more reasonable price..
Thanks a bunch..
Ron
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Unread 06-16-2011, 05:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhusak View Post
hi all..

Does anyone have the part number for the improved tube and seal? Is there an on line resource to buy this at a more reasonable price..
Thanks a bunch..
Ron

53013672ae
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Unread 06-16-2011, 05:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootr29 View Post
I do not think you can buy the seal by itself...you need to buy the entire air tube with the black seal.....

Orange = bad

Black = good

The way the improved "black" seal interfaces with the intake tube is completely different which creates the need for the new intake tube. You need to buy the entire assembly.
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Unread 06-17-2011, 04:36 AM   #21
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here is what I think is the original thread on this issue

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...9/#post7983033
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Unread 06-17-2011, 12:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirpz View Post
I examined my air intake hose today while putting my Jeep back together. Take a look at the gasket where the intake hose connects to the turbo. That's a factory defect as far as I can tell, I don't think it has ever been removed. As you can see, the V pattern at the bottom edge would allow oil to drip right out and right on top of the swirl motor.
my factory seal was also damaged from being forced on when the tube was not square to the turbo. this seems to be a common issue, I blame the jeep assemblers, not mercedes, since i think the air tube is installed on the jeep assembly line.
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Unread 06-17-2011, 02:45 PM   #23
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Swirl Motor Oil Inside

This will be my last pictures of this little servo motor. This is the 4th puddle of oil that has drained out of it. Finally, I ripped the lid off so all can see how it is made inside.

It looks a lot like the inside of an RC airplane servo and has the same function...only it is bigger and stouter. In the second picture you can get the basic idea how it looks if you ignore the holes that I bored in it to aid in removing the swirl clips.
r0013893.jpg   r0013896.jpg  
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Unread 01-17-2012, 08:01 PM   #24
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My dealer just did $3800 in repairs on engine at 82,000. I bought the jeep new and it has been maintained to book specs. The dealer doesn't do much CRD work so they had the jeep 21 days. Took entire engine out twice (because at 14 days when I picked it up the interior was filling with exhaust fumes). Letter going to Chrysler this week. I'm at 84478 miles and my extended warranty ends at 85k. Tonight the dash lights all,came on three times in two minutes while driving, like I had turned the key off. Anyone know what this is? This thing is a POS in my opinion. I've had tons of issues.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 10:29 PM   #25
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Sad story for sure. You did not say in our post exactly WHAT they were trying to fix.
What was their diagnosis?
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Unread 01-18-2012, 07:41 AM   #26
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Sorry, I should have mentioned that my $3800 in repairs was the swirl motor issue. The car went into "limp mode" and I could only go 35 mph on the highway. That's what got me to the dealer. I'll post all of my issues later when I finish my letter to Chrysler.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 08:06 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobholthaus View Post
Sorry, I should have mentioned that my $3800 in repairs was the swirl motor issue. The car went into "limp mode" and I could only go 35 mph on the highway. That's what got me to the dealer. I'll post all of my issues later when I finish my letter to Chrysler.
Hey Bob...I have yet to be get bite by the swirl motor issue...but every letter to Chrysler helps. $3800 is absolutely insane for that specific project...was there more done?

I think the swirl motor is like $250 dollars and a competent mechanic should be able to remove and replace in at least 8 hours...lets give them 10 hours just in case. Add in some additional parts that he may break.

Swirl motor = $250
10 hours x $100 = $1000...and I know some shops the hourly rate is a lot less than $100 per hour.
Misc Parts and Tax = 200

That adds up to roughly $1450...give or take a few dollars.

Where did they get $3800 from?
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Unread 01-18-2012, 12:43 PM   #28
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Here are my notes from that repair:

- There are valves in the intake manifold - stopped up with greasy substance - actuator moves the valves and they get stuck and causes loss of power - took out engine/transmission and turbo - new manifolds and new actuator and new EGR Valve -
Parts: $2045.29
Labor: $1228.75
Rental: $560.00
21 days of rental car as well.

If you read some of these posts, I recall seeing others experience the same costs. It's incredible. For that one repaid, they had the engine and transmission out of the vehicle twice in 21 days. There were a bunch of gaskets leaking after the first repair, having them to take it all out the second time.

Since I bought the vehicle, I've had: the entire front axle and transfer case replaced, the entire AC system (literally the entire thing, complressor, etc - took three visits to get it all complete), most of the elctronics in the dash, the autostick transmission lever, both front window switches twice, the rear pinion seal, two or three of the glow plugs have been replaced, and a number of other things that I don't have spelled out. Almost all of these items listed happened after the 36,000 mile warranty expired. Thanksfully, I have a Chrysler extended warranty, or I would have paid almost $10,000 in repairs (the axle and differential were like $2000 and the AC I think he told me was like $2000). Since I bought this Jeep new, the dealer has had it more than 2.5 to 3 months for all of the service. It's crazy. I had a 2002 Grand Cherokee that I bought new and had the exact same kind of issues, all starting right after the factory warranty expired. On that one, I had a non-Chrysler warranty and when I sold the car I called the warranty place to have it transferred and the guy said, "Well, you've gotten your money out of this one." When I asked how much had been charged to it, it was like $7000 in repairs (from 36,000 to 85,000 miles, which for me, was about 2.5 year - almost 100% highway miles too). So, I'm sending a letter to Chrysler asking them to extend my extended warranty to 100,000 for all of the troubles I've been through. Dealing with rental cars each time, having to take my car back to the dealers repeatedly, it has been enough to drive me crazy. Thankfully, the Chrysler extended warranty ($0 deductible) provides for a free loaner car (which is one of the main reasons I bought it), but the time I've wasted on this vehicle has been incredible. My friends all think I got a lemon. By the way, I am 39 years old with two young kids, so it's not like I'm out abusing this vehicle. The outside and inside look just about as good as it did the day I bought it (I'm in real estate and development and have customers in my car all of the time). So I'm fed up, and I've been a repeat Jeep client. I hope that they extend some good will towards me. If they do, I'll drive it another year and then dump it right before the warranty expires. If they don't, then I may be dumping it sooner than later. I'm too scared to own this car while not under warranty.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 01:03 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootr29 View Post
Hey Bob...I have yet to be get bite by the swirl motor issue...but every letter to Chrysler helps. $3800 is absolutely insane for that specific project...was there more done?

I think the swirl motor is like $250 dollars and a competent mechanic should be able to remove and replace in at least 8 hours...lets give them 10 hours just in case. Add in some additional parts that he may break.

Swirl motor = $250
10 hours x $100 = $1000...and I know some shops the hourly rate is a lot less than $100 per hour.
Misc Parts and Tax = 200

That adds up to roughly $1450...give or take a few dollars.

Where did they get $3800 from?
Well, that low price you are quoting depends on whether or not your "mechanic" accidentally breaks the fragile linkage on the manifolds. If he does, then you have to replace the manifolds at over $700 a pop and then there is more time and trouble so more labour. I guess the key word is competent.... but stuff happens.

When I took mine in to the dealer, they told me 1238.00 to replace the Swirl motor BUT if we accidentally break the linkage it could go as high as $4000.00. That's when I decided to have my own accidents and do the job myself. Which I did with help from the friendly people on this forum.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 01:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobholthaus View Post
Here are my notes from that repair:

- There are valves in the intake manifold - stopped up with greasy substance - actuator moves the valves and they get stuck and causes loss of power - took out engine/transmission and turbo - new manifolds and new actuator and new EGR Valve -
Parts: $2045.29
Labor: $1228.75
Rental: $560.00
21 days of rental car as well.

If you read some of these posts, I recall seeing others experience the same costs. It's incredible. For that one repaid, they had the engine and transmission out of the vehicle twice in 21 days. There were a bunch of gaskets leaking after the first repair, having them to take it all out the second time.

Since I bought the vehicle, I've had: the entire front axle and transfer case replaced, the entire AC system (literally the entire thing, complressor, etc - took three visits to get it all complete), most of the elctronics in the dash, the autostick transmission lever, both front window switches twice, the rear pinion seal, two or three of the glow plugs have been replaced, and a number of other things that I don't have spelled out. Almost all of these items listed happened after the 36,000 mile warranty expired. Thanksfully, I have a Chrysler extended warranty, or I would have paid almost $10,000 in repairs (the axle and differential were like $2000 and the AC I think he told me was like $2000). Since I bought this Jeep new, the dealer has had it more than 2.5 to 3 months for all of the service. It's crazy. I had a 2002 Grand Cherokee that I bought new and had the exact same kind of issues, all starting right after the factory warranty expired. On that one, I had a non-Chrysler warranty and when I sold the car I called the warranty place to have it transferred and the guy said, "Well, you've gotten your money out of this one." When I asked how much had been charged to it, it was like $7000 in repairs (from 36,000 to 85,000 miles, which for me, was about 2.5 year - almost 100% highway miles too). So, I'm sending a letter to Chrysler asking them to extend my extended warranty to 100,000 for all of the troubles I've been through. Dealing with rental cars each time, having to take my car back to the dealers repeatedly, it has been enough to drive me crazy. Thankfully, the Chrysler extended warranty ($0 deductible) provides for a free loaner car (which is one of the main reasons I bought it), but the time I've wasted on this vehicle has been incredible. My friends all think I got a lemon. By the way, I am 39 years old with two young kids, so it's not like I'm out abusing this vehicle. The outside and inside look just about as good as it did the day I bought it (I'm in real estate and development and have customers in my car all of the time). So I'm fed up, and I've been a repeat Jeep client. I hope that they extend some good will towards me. If they do, I'll drive it another year and then dump it right before the warranty expires. If they don't, then I may be dumping it sooner than later. I'm too scared to own this car while not under warranty.
Damn....
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