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CRD oil cooler. Need write up with video or pics

4K views 40 replies 10 participants last post by  CGdieselGC 
#1 ·
Need a how to for the oil cooler seals. Can't seem to find a video or pictures
 
#3 ·
I have. Doesn't really break it down
 
#5 ·
That picture definitely helps. I've looked at multiple threads/videos for turbo and swirl. I appreciate the assistance. Although now I'm the *** who's not providing a good thread to follow. I'm 13 hours in and have the turbo out and various other steps.
 
#6 ·
All done up. Now I can't seem to get the fuel system to bleed. Any suggestions?
 
#8 ·
I know it should. How full should I have filled the fuel filter? Do y'all turn on/off multiple times or actually crank it multiple times? 120k. I hate to say I don't know the oil, but I did a fuel filter change, and once I get it to warm up, I'm doing the oil.
 
#11 ·
Agreed. I've never had to fill mine when just replacing the fuel filter. I have before, partially filled it with the gray bottle Power Service.
When I had my heads done, we had it put together enough to try and start it up before buttoning everything up. We tried and tried and tried. Wouldn't start. Called another diesel tech and told him what was done and were it was all at. He ended up suggesting to spray ether into the intake since we had that apart up to the split for each side. Gave it a healthy hit and bam fired right up. Idled for a few minutes, we shut it off and it started right back up and haven't had an issue since.
 
#12 ·
Well I wish I would've taken the swirl flaps out, just took out the motor, replaced with resistor mod. However, I'm not getting fuel to the filter. I took off both lines and turned it on to see if fuel came out. Stayed dry. I'm in a pickle
 
#14 ·
The high pressure pump is fine. I can hear it and it's after the filter anyway. I'm guessing the in tank pump died. Not sure how. And of course its a full tank. Anyone know how to op check it before actually dropping it?
 
#15 ·
Without a scanner you may be able to put your ear to the tank while someone else cycles the key. You should be able to hear it whir. That or maybe find the wires that power it and put jumpers to it to directly power it and see if it pumps. If it pumps it would be somewhere in wiring before pump. Not sure which relay it is but try swapping a different relay like from your AC to see it it's a bad relay.
Maybe you bumped a connector while taking everything apart?
Just a bunch of ideas.
Any chance you took notes on the oil seal process?
How long did it take you?
I'll tackle that project when it gets there.
 
#16 ·
I checked/swapped relays and fuses. I've gone back over all connectors. I have a scanner, only codes are for lack of pressure on exhaust systems. Ie. EGR, DPF, etc. P0245, p2009, p0489, p2454, and p0638.
 
#19 ·
So I disconnected the connector to the fuel pump, not the one on the pump but the one mounted a foot away that's easy to get to, and I got a 6v reading. Is it supposed to be 6v?

I also disconnected the fuel lines and diesel will not stop coming out. The rate of flow never changes. It dropped about 3/4 of a gallon before I reconnected the lines. How is it still coming out?
 
#20 ·
that is gravity syphon with the fuel coming out. I thought that was a 12 volt pump .. look up the replacement and it should list the voltage ..if it is a 12 volt pump, apply 12 volts to test "make sure you have the right wire" and then there is some wire pinched.

there is voltage for the sending unit and voltage for the pump ... different wires, make sure you have the right wire.
 
#21 ·
Cancel all. #16 fuse, labeled "coils," was blown. Tripped the ASD, I believe. Now to bleed the high pressure rails
 
#23 ·
Fellow CRD Junkies,

Need some help here, I am getting into the cooler seal replacement job and haven't been able to get the three screws off the back of my turbo to access the Y pipe on my 07 CRD. I need some serious help or tips if anyone has them, I've soaked everything in PB Blaster and it won't budge and inch. Yes, I've watched every video and they all seem to have this luxury of space above their turbo, we simply don't on the CRD unless... I'm missing something? Like removing the heat shield? If so, anyone have a how-to? Or am I stuck trying to get a quarter turn on one of these turbo bolts and hoping the rest are easier?

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Should I try getting to the bolts with a 3/8 13 MM Ratchet tool? I can run out and get one from HD or something. I can hardly fit my hands to torque this damn thing off. I have a Milwaukee tool M18 Impact that I'll be using on everything else, but would really appreciate some tips on accessing the turbo bolts. Just can't seem to get to them, especially with the cowl and everything hovering so close above. I'm thinking of sending the intakes off to CB to remove the swirl motor flaps and a good cleaning too. I figure I may as well put on a new alternator, water pump, thermostat, belt, tensioner and idler pulleys too. There is just carbon everywhere and I am going to take my time to clean everything up on this engine. It's just filthy - If you've got a good foaming degreaser, let me know. Take a look at these photos and let me know what you think!!! Just FYI, car has 150K on it, all amsoil products and Mann filters, it's been taken good care of and I don't ever want to get rid of it!

Appreciate the forum as always and hopefully can get this done. I gave up yesterday and hastily retreated to cold beers. Hope everyone is doing well and appreciate your help!!! 🍻

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#24 ·
the short answer is no, there isn't really a way to gain more space. If I remember correctly, I used a u joint / wobble and/or reaching from underneath. I have a pretty long wingspan and have skinny arms. If you look up from underneath the vehicle, from just inside the driver wheel, with the hood open, you should be able to see the back of the turbo. I was able to switch back and forth to get them off and also to put them back on.
Verify with CB Engineering now, he is a busy guy and doesn't always get to his CBE stuff super quick.
Also, while you are getting at these things and cleaning it up, take a look at the two mounting pieces of the oil filter housing, the vacuum pump, and the oil cap for leaks. Check to see how oil filled your alternator is. It can be swapped with the Sprinter 220 amp alternator if you put the voltage regulator from a WK CRD on it. The PCM does the voltage regulation anyway.
 
#25 ·
A ratchet with an adjustable head and some ratcheting box end wrenches will help tremendously.
Also if you can snake your arm down from the drivers side below the EGR towards the bellhousing up to your elbow, it will allow your arm space to curl upwards to the back turbo bolts for the collector.

If your collector is mounted with bolts, the lowest fitting is a slip cut in the flange, so the lower most bolt just needs to be loosened and remove the upper 2 bolts and the collector will detach. If studs and nuts, then all the nuts need to be removed and the collector pushed back towards firewall to get off of the studs.
 
#26 ·
Benzro & Badger,

Thank you for the tips, I'll give any and all a shot, I've got the flex head box end ratchets (8/10/13), but not a flex head 3/8 ratchet - I'll go grab one and send these studs and nuts to hell. I was able to get my arm and elbow behind, so that's the way to do it. Appreciate the help fellas and will check with CB prior to sending out the intakes, otherwise I'll just dremel the flaps off the damn thing.

I'll definitely be purchasing a new alternator, it's just covered and my oil cap is showing a little leak, housing and everything else seems to be ok.

I'll keep everyone posted, appreciate the help and looking forward to getting this done once and for all.

Cheers 🍻
 
#27 ·
I doubled up the nuts on the top studs of collector pipe and used them to remove the studs on mine and then it just lifts up.
There are metal tube water pipes that run round the back of the engine and are bolted up on either side of the heads , these are in the way when trying to remove exhaust parts .
Some brake lines run across bulkhead above turbo , cover the brackets or they tear your arms to pieces, drop the hood catch down out of the way as well and it will save some bruises.
 
#28 ·
Hey Guys,

Thank you so much for your continued help and responses, I've finally been able to get to the job and have replaced the seals on my oil cooler! I'm going to be putting the engine back together over the next two days, but prior to doing so, want to check with community on the Turbo Exhaust Studs (picture below). Has anyone removed them and replaced with the E12 Torx provided by the ID Parts replacement pack? If you have, any ideas or tips on how to best remove the turbo exhaust bolts prior to putting the turbo back on? Otherwise, I'll go and get some new 10.9 Stainless Steel M8 1.25 nuts to replace the ones that were completely heat stressed and fused. Space is limited and I'm just hoping to gain some insights from folks who have completed this. The fuel injector rails and manifolds are going on in the afternoon today! Not a bad job, just really time consuming, especially cleaning all of the intakes and soot off everything. Holy smokes.




I also replaced 3/6 glow plugs, with one unscrewed, but not willing to come out, will fire up the engine and warm it up before taking it out further, it's soaking in PB for the time being. Have a new glow plug controller unit and have been needing to replace some, so I'm trying all. I also popped off the swirl flaps and will run the Resistor that I purchased from CB Engineering.

Hope everyone is doing well and enjoying spring. Thank you again for all of your help.

Cheers,

CG
 
#29 ·
CRD Junkies,

The pain continues post oil seal replacement. I was flashed the red lightning bolt of doom after taking the car out recently for a fresh tank of fuel - Threw codes: P2099 (Turbo Underboost) and P0402/P0401 (EGR Flow Excessive/Insufficient). Additionally, the engine is making a loud "pop" noise about every 30 seconds in what seems to be the passenger side of the engine bay. I scanned further and noticed a "U1132" code, but have just changed the alternator, everything was seemingly fine, followed by gremlin chaos. I replaced the vacuum pump seals (was leaking oil on the alternator) and got a new alternator from Napa (some chatter on the U1132 issue has come from Valero alternators being used instead of Bosch - I will check the rear ground on the alternator when I move it back into the garage). I'll check the grounds by the airbox and battery as well, maybe give connections a once over with dielectric grease.

I cleaned the EGR when I took the manifolds off, but I'll go get some contact cleaner as I think the electric contacts may be going haywire throwing both of those codes simultaneously(401/402). I've replaced both the EGR (about 5 years ago) and my actuator (3 years ago) and haven't had an issue with the vehicle. Maybe there is some dust or leftover grime in the connections? Will also pull the MAF and check it out as well.

This happen to anyone else? I don't have any tunes on the car and I've been running it pretty much stock. Only thing that's not fresh in the car is the fuel filter (changed oil and coolant during the seal job). I used the Swirl Delete Plug from CB and removed the flaps when I cleaned the intakes. I bought a new elephant hose and seal, along with PVC valve and installed it when putting the car back together. If anyone can help with this "popping" sound, I'd appreciate it, never heard it before and it's occurring at idle now.

I'm going to move the car back into the garage and change the fuel filter (think boost fail is related to fuel not getting to the rails fast enough and old diesel fuel) as that's been mentioned in the forum before. Will then check turbo actuator (it is moving when engine revving) although it seems fine. Car only goes into limp mode when it's being driven in gear. Appreciate any insights you may have.

Damn Gremlins,

CG
 
#30 ·
Throwing turbo under boost and egr codes says to me it has an air leak somewhere…. It’s all to do with airflow across engine (air in and exhaust gas out ) and certain codes pop up like egr not because it is bad but the airflow / gas flow does not fit the required scenario ecu needs it to be / or should be operating under and the ecu only has certain codes to put up so you have insufficient boost leading to incorrect egr gas flow
As for the alternator that code could it have been an old one that was there before you replaced alternator ?.
 
#31 ·
I would also recommend testing the exhaust Back Pressure Sensor, it is pigtailed to the EGR circuit at the back of the intake manifold right by the turbo left side top. Look for damage to connectors or harness, or even the sensor, they have a high failure rate especially if an aftermarket part.

The exhaust popping, double check the EGR feeder pipe from the exhaust manifold to the EGR. Should have a gasket on each end, sometimes they get missed on reassembly or possibly a loose fitting,
 
#32 ·
Doug & Benz,

Thank you for the insights, I will double check all of these and report back in. I figured it would be something to do with the airflow and perhaps the 20NM torque wasn't quite enough on the exhaust related bolts, especially with new gaskets. I triple checked all settings and new gaskets when installing (I know, it's overboard), but also hope it's not something from the "hard to reach" part of this job. I changed the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor a couple years ago, so maybe it's time has come. I'll go give the EGR elbow connection another click on the torque wrench and see what happens. When I accelerate in drive, the turbo sounds like a misfiring blaster from Star Wars, which makes me think it may be the damn resonator too.

As for the alternator, it could have been a stored code as my old one was completely covered in you know what. I mean look at it:
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Yes, leaks everywhere. Now fixed. My serpentine belt was practically an oil slick and this car would cruise along for 12 hour road trip days in summer like it was nothing.

As always, appreciate everyone's help. I won't give this car up because it continues to chug along so well and this is the only major overhaul I've needed to do. I'll get to the fuel filter and tightening this weekend and report in.

Thank you all.

CG
 
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