I had a chance to complete some maintenance items on the Jeep, thought I would share details.
Serpentine belt instructions:
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
2. Remove plastic cover
3. Remove high pressure intake resonator. There are one or two external torx, I'm pretty sure 10mm, bolts and a small torx screw accessible from the top. First remove the torx screw and clip for the metal tube which runs from the turbo to the resonator, then remove the resonator mounting bolts. There is a bolt behind everything that needs a U-joint wrench to get from the top.
E10 or E8 socket for resonator and mount:
Wrench assembly for the rear resonator bolt:
Wrench on rear resonator bolt:
Release the spring clip on the rubber hose to the resonator and the whole thing will become loose. Do not drop anything or you will have to remove the belly pan or go fishing. Be careful not to loose the o-ring seals for the tubing. A little gentle pulling and everything will come apart.
4. Remove resonator mount, two external torx screws, again I think they were 10mm.
Resonator mount, note the new belt (goodyear greenstripe):
5. Use socket to release tension on belt, remove taking care to draw the current routing.
Picture of lower resonator tube, and some of the routing... not sure what I was trying to get there...
6. Install new belt
7. Put everything together in reverse, making sure to use anti sieze compound on bolts going into the aluminum.
My old belt:
While you are in here, its a good time to do that dirty fuel filter:
Process is pretty straight forward. I only needed to loosen the clamp bolt and it slid right out. Some say they needed to remove the entire mount, so your results may very.
To remove the water sensor loosen/remove the two screws on the sensor and twist to clear the metal on the filter. Pull the assembly up to remove.
In the picture you can clearly see the difference between the factory Mercedes filter and the MANN filter. Next filter I will go back with the factory. The Mann did come with a new water drain plastic piece and o-rings which was a nice touch.
I ran into trouble with the fuel hose, the small L shaped one disintegrated and I had to fit a long piece looped around to make the turn until I can get the factory part on the next filter change. The clamps which were on this filter were very poor quality, I don't know that they were factory or replaced somewhere along the line at a dealer. They had red paint on them like the paint that is on the air intake clamps and the oil filter housing.
Once the filter was replaced, i placed a long hose on the nipple for the water drain/bleeder and turned on the ignition until fuel came out. Was almost instant.
Same as all other differentials except the front has a drain and a fill. Remember to use full synthetic and friction modifier if you have the e-lockers/limited slip. I used redline. I did notice the front fluid was significantly darker than the rear. Great stuff gasket sealant is my gasket maker of choice for differential covers. 4 quarts covers the change.
During this time I also did the transfer case fluid, which was easy with the only notes being use the dealer only fluid and getting the fluid in the fill hole is very difficult even using a suction gun, you must put it in very slowly. I ended up wasting half a quart due to this. Capacity is around 2 qts.
When I did the transmission fluid I drained, filled, then drove around, drained, filled, and repeated 4 or 5 times until it came out brand new, then dropped the pan and valve body. While I had the valve body out I replaced the electrical connector and cleaned all ferrous material from the speed sensors. Only reason I dropped the valve body was I thought there was an issue which turned out to be torque converter engagement halfway through second gear. At least I know its spotless in there now.
Last thing I will touch on is the CCV modification, or elephant hose mod as its called around here. I plan to build a separator for this, but had it vented to the atmosphere just to keep the nasty sludge out of the intake and off the swirl motor. To keep things reversible I found a plug the exact size of the hole, and used Permetex High Tack to hold it in place. The part number for this plug is 6376 from the Mr Gasket company. It does not have a risk of being sucked in and does not intrude too far into the intake tube:
A view installed:
That wraps it up for now. Next time I get a chance to get to the garage I'll have more. It's looking like sometime in December is the next free weekend, so don't wait around...