CRD maintenance items: Serpentine belt, diff fluid, fuel filter, CCV plug informatio - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-23-2012, 11:17 PM   #1
breckman99
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2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: , CO
Posts: 58
CRD maintenance items: Serpentine belt, diff fluid, fuel filter, CCV plug informatio

I had a chance to complete some maintenance items on the Jeep, thought I would share details.

Serpentine belt instructions:
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
2. Remove plastic cover

3. Remove high pressure intake resonator. There are one or two external torx, I'm pretty sure 10mm, bolts and a small torx screw accessible from the top. First remove the torx screw and clip for the metal tube which runs from the turbo to the resonator, then remove the resonator mounting bolts. There is a bolt behind everything that needs a U-joint wrench to get from the top.
E10 or E8 socket for resonator and mount:

Wrench assembly for the rear resonator bolt:

Wrench on rear resonator bolt:

Release the spring clip on the rubber hose to the resonator and the whole thing will become loose. Do not drop anything or you will have to remove the belly pan or go fishing. Be careful not to loose the o-ring seals for the tubing. A little gentle pulling and everything will come apart.
4. Remove resonator mount, two external torx screws, again I think they were 10mm.
Resonator mount, note the new belt (goodyear greenstripe):

5. Use socket to release tension on belt, remove taking care to draw the current routing.
Picture of lower resonator tube, and some of the routing... not sure what I was trying to get there...

6. Install new belt
7. Put everything together in reverse, making sure to use anti sieze compound on bolts going into the aluminum.
My old belt:



While you are in here, its a good time to do that dirty fuel filter:

Process is pretty straight forward. I only needed to loosen the clamp bolt and it slid right out. Some say they needed to remove the entire mount, so your results may very.

To remove the water sensor loosen/remove the two screws on the sensor and twist to clear the metal on the filter. Pull the assembly up to remove.

In the picture you can clearly see the difference between the factory Mercedes filter and the MANN filter. Next filter I will go back with the factory. The Mann did come with a new water drain plastic piece and o-rings which was a nice touch.



I ran into trouble with the fuel hose, the small L shaped one disintegrated and I had to fit a long piece looped around to make the turn until I can get the factory part on the next filter change. The clamps which were on this filter were very poor quality, I don't know that they were factory or replaced somewhere along the line at a dealer. They had red paint on them like the paint that is on the air intake clamps and the oil filter housing.

Once the filter was replaced, i placed a long hose on the nipple for the water drain/bleeder and turned on the ignition until fuel came out. Was almost instant.

Differential oil:
Same as all other differentials except the front has a drain and a fill. Remember to use full synthetic and friction modifier if you have the e-lockers/limited slip. I used redline. I did notice the front fluid was significantly darker than the rear. Great stuff gasket sealant is my gasket maker of choice for differential covers. 4 quarts covers the change.



During this time I also did the transfer case fluid, which was easy with the only notes being use the dealer only fluid and getting the fluid in the fill hole is very difficult even using a suction gun, you must put it in very slowly. I ended up wasting half a quart due to this. Capacity is around 2 qts.

When I did the transmission fluid I drained, filled, then drove around, drained, filled, and repeated 4 or 5 times until it came out brand new, then dropped the pan and valve body. While I had the valve body out I replaced the electrical connector and cleaned all ferrous material from the speed sensors. Only reason I dropped the valve body was I thought there was an issue which turned out to be torque converter engagement halfway through second gear. At least I know its spotless in there now.

Last thing I will touch on is the CCV modification, or elephant hose mod as its called around here. I plan to build a separator for this, but had it vented to the atmosphere just to keep the nasty sludge out of the intake and off the swirl motor. To keep things reversible I found a plug the exact size of the hole, and used Permetex High Tack to hold it in place. The part number for this plug is 6376 from the Mr Gasket company. It does not have a risk of being sucked in and does not intrude too far into the intake tube:


A view installed:



Inside shot:



That wraps it up for now. Next time I get a chance to get to the garage I'll have more. It's looking like sometime in December is the next free weekend, so don't wait around...

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Unread 08-23-2012, 11:52 PM   #2
breckman99
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As mentioned before... whenever you have dissimilar metals, especially aluminum and steel, don't forget the anti-sieze compound or you will be unhappy next time around!
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Unread 08-24-2012, 12:26 PM   #3
Havefun
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Thank You!

Info on your WK? Year, Mileage, Model

I can not thank you enough for sharing.
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Unread 08-24-2012, 12:38 PM   #4
breckman99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Havefun View Post
Info on your WK? Year, Mileage, Model

I can not thank you enough for sharing.
2007 3.0L CRD Limited with around 53K on the clock at the time of this service. No problem!
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Unread 08-24-2012, 01:43 PM   #5
BAH101
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On item 5, belt tensioner, if you notice the hole, to the right of the nut you put you big wrench on. If you insert an Allen key there, take off the tension and push the Allen key in, it will hold the tension off the belt for removal and installation.
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2008 CRD QDII, OME HD, Pintlers wheels with 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armour's, Jeepinbyal UCA's. 4XGuard Front guard, Side Guard, belly guard, Matrix HC. GDE ECO Tune w/ delete.
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Unread 08-24-2012, 07:04 PM   #6
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAH101
On item 5, belt tensioner, if you notice the hole, to the right of the nut you put you big wrench on. If you insert an Allen key there, take off the tension and push the Allen key in, it will hold the tension off the belt for removal and installation.
Yep you realy dont want the belt tensioner to snap back. If it does you have to replace the belt tensioner assembly.
$$$$$$$
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Unread 08-24-2012, 07:08 PM   #7
jediknight
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breckman99
I had a chance to complete some maintenance items on the Jeep, thought I would share details.

Serpentine belt instructions:
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
2. Remove plastic cover

3. Remove high pressure intake resonator. There are one or two external torx, I'm pretty sure 10mm, bolts and a small torx screw accessible from the top. First remove the torx screw and clip for the metal tube which runs from the turbo to the resonator, then remove the resonator mounting bolts. There is a bolt behind everything that needs a U-joint wrench to get from the top.
E10 or E8 socket for resonator and mount:

Wrench assembly for the rear resonator bolt:

Wrench on rear resonator bolt:

Release the spring clip on the rubber hose to the resonator and the whole thing will become loose. Do not drop anything or you will have to remove the belly pan or go fishing. Be careful not to loose the o-ring seals for the tubing. A little gentle pulling and everything will come apart.
4. Remove resonator mount, two external torx screws, again I think they were 10mm.
Resonator mount, note the new belt (goodyear greenstripe):

5. Use socket to release tension on belt, remove taking care to draw the current routing.
Picture of lower resonator tube, and some of the routing... not sure what I was trying to get there...

6. Install new belt
7. Put everything together in reverse, making sure to use anti sieze compound on bolts going into the aluminum.
My old belt:

While you are in here, its a good time to do that dirty fuel filter:

Process is pretty straight forward. I only needed to loosen the clamp bolt and it slid right out. Some say they needed to remove the entire mount, so your results may very.

To remove the water sensor loosen/remove the two screws on the sensor and twist to clear the metal on the filter. Pull the assembly up to remove.

In the picture you can clearly see the difference between the factory Mercedes filter and the MANN filter. Next filter I will go back with the factory. The Mann did come with a new water drain plastic piece and o-rings which was a nice touch.

I ran into trouble with the fuel hose, the small L shaped one disintegrated and I had to fit a long piece looped around to make the turn until I can get the factory part on the next filter change. The clamps which were on this filter were very poor quality, I don't know that they were factory or replaced somewhere along the line at a dealer. They had red paint on them like the paint that is on the air intake clamps and the oil filter housing.

Once the filter was replaced, i placed a long hose on the nipple for the water drain/bleeder and turned on the ignition until fuel came out. Was almost instant.

Differential oil:
Same as all other differentials except the front has a drain and a fill. Remember to use full synthetic and friction modifier if you have the e-lockers/limited slip. I used redline. I did notice the front fluid was significantly darker than the rear. Great stuff gasket sealant is my gasket maker of choice for differential covers. 4 quarts covers the change.

During this time I also did the transfer case fluid, which was easy with the only notes being use the dealer only fluid and getting the fluid in the fill hole is very difficult even using a suction gun, you must put it in very slowly. I ended up wasting half a quart due to this. Capacity is around 2 qts.

When I did the transmission fluid I drained, filled, then drove around, drained, filled, and repeated 4 or 5 times until it came out brand new, then dropped the pan and valve body. While I had the valve body out I replaced the electrical connector and cleaned all ferrous material from the speed sensors. Only reason I dropped the valve body was I thought there was an issue which turned out to be torque converter engagement halfway through second gear. At least I know its spotless in there now.

Last thing I will touch on is the CCV modification, or elephant hose mod as its called around here. I plan to build a separator for this, but had it vented to the atmosphere just to keep the nasty sludge out of the intake and off the swirl motor. To keep things reversible I found a plug the exact size of the hole, and used Permetex High Tack to hold it in place. The part number for this plug is 6376 from the Mr Gasket company. It does not have a risk of being sucked in and does not intrude too far into the intake tube:

A view installed:

Inside shot:

That wraps it up for now. Next time I get a chance to get to the garage I'll have more. It's looking like sometime in December is the next free weekend, so don't wait around...
I noticed you still have the orange seal on. There's an important mod for this with a black seal, but since you did the EHMod you're safe on your swirl motor. Orange seal is known to leak and ccv oils drips on the swirl thinggy ... Apparently causing it to fail :\
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Unread 08-24-2012, 09:13 PM   #8
breckman99
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Yup, orange seal doesn't really matter once the problem (dumping crankcase gas and oil into the intake) is removed. Even some with the 'improved' black seal note continued oil leaks. The design of where the CCV tube enters the intake tube has no provision for clamping, so oil can continue to escape here if you have bad enough blowby. Luckily the engine on mine is still pretty new so oil in the intake tract was fairly minimal. Bad intake design in any case. My orange seal is intact, and not split, so I really don't care at this point. Someday that plastic tube will be replaced with something different anyhow as I don't like how it hugs the engine for ascetics anyway.

As for the tensioner... it will not break if you slip and it snaps back to its stop. Maybe if you sit there and jack it back and fourth a bunch. You think every time your belt breaks the tensioner goes out too? It's not a magical black box, its a spring and a piece of metal. The holding pin is one of those nice things to have for some, but not absolutely necessary.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 04:36 AM   #9
BAH101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jediknight

Yep you realy dont want the belt tensioner to snap back. If it does you have to replace the belt tensioner assembly.
$$$$$$$
Changed my belt twice now, the Allen key holds it nice and firmly with the spring pressure. I found the tip from Merlin Techs write-up from a few years ago.
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2008 CRD QDII, OME HD, Pintlers wheels with 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armour's, Jeepinbyal UCA's. 4XGuard Front guard, Side Guard, belly guard, Matrix HC. GDE ECO Tune w/ delete.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 01:17 PM   #10
terrasmak
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Location: South Korea, Osan AB
Posts: 504
Thank you , fuel filter and diff are next on mine. Sure I could have figured it out, but pics and write up are always nice.
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Unread 11-08-2012, 05:51 PM   #11
chillin669
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: woodland Hills, ca
Posts: 1
Serpentine Belt Replacement Helpfull Tips!

Just spent the better part of my day changing out the belt on my 57k Jeep CRD. While i have worked on many vehicles before, this thing is kinda tricky. So i thought i would contribute some helpful hints that while maybe be obvious to some people, wish i knew some of these going into this. Luckily i had all the tools but some people may not until they pull everything apart and realize they need a 17mm socket etc.,

1.Those hidden bolts holding that POS resonator are 8mm(hard to tell cause they are so hidden they are the same as the ones all over the motor)
2.The bolt on top the manifold holding the piping that connects the turbo to the resonator should be loosened first and tighten last(makes it easier to line up resonator etc when putting everything back together)
3.As mentioned by others the tensioner has a little hole to put a drill bit/allen key etc which is critical to keep it from snapping back. You can put your item of choice most of the way in the hole so when you are wrestling the tensioner with one hand it will be easy to just pop your Allen key in to hold the tensioner in place.
4.The tensioner is 17mm, and you will probably need some leverage depending on your wrench length(I had to add a pipe on the end of my wrench to get enough leverage)
5.I started to pull the belt off and realized how many friggen pulleys this thing has, so i drew a quick diagram to make sure the belt is routed properly when i replaced it.
6.When putting everything back together, the little clip that hold the resonator to the intercooler hose can be per-installed on the resonator so that when put everything back together it just requires a small tap to lock it the hose in place.

Hope this helps!
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Unread 02-02-2013, 03:32 PM   #12
Themtbeerbottle
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Location: Del rio, Tx
Posts: 8
HELP!! I need help. Two weeks ago I got a check engine light for the #1 and # 6 cylinder flow plugs. I bought and changed out all 6 plugs and in the process changed out the serpentine belt.

On the first drive after doing this I had a flashing electronic throttle control light. ( the red lightning bolt) and a check engine light. The codes that I pulled were p0299 turbo/supercharger under boost and another one for the mass airflow sensor. This happened when the engine was at operating temperature and while I was giving it gas (turbo spooling up).

I've taken off the turbo resonator and reconnected it. Cleared the codes and the issue was still there.

Is there a gasket on the upper portion of the resonator? Maybe I lost it. If so what is the part number or could I get one from autozone?

Thanks in advance for the help. I appreciate it.

Mike

2007 jeep grand Cherokee CRD

By the way. Orileys sells glow plugs for the crd for 18.95 USD. They have to special order from factory and you might want to bring in the part number to ease looking it up.
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Unread 02-02-2013, 03:36 PM   #13
Themtbeerbottle
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Here's a pic of the top end of the turbo resonator.

Is there suppose to be a rubber gasket here?

Thanks again

Mike
image-1532962674.jpg  
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Unread 02-03-2013, 10:37 AM   #14
Themtbeerbottle
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I found this web site that has a part breakdown but the image is vague and there is no part 15 in the discription.

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/s...ssembly=862811.

I bought some O rings from an auto parts store and am going to just try them.
image-2621607333.jpg  
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Unread 02-03-2013, 10:19 PM   #15
Themtbeerbottle
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Solved

I ended up buying 20 different o rings from all the auto parts stores in the area. One of them worked. It's not perfect but close enough.
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