CRD Glow Plug issue - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 285 Old 10-30-2010, 08:55 PM
SSF556
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I have 6 of them in my spares box just in case...61,000 miles and no lights so far. Fingers crossed.

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post #47 of 285 Old 10-30-2010, 10:14 PM
suzieque
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Originally Posted by TonyVideo View Post
I am thinking of going ahead and buying a spare as I am sure others will fail over time. Then I would be able to replace it right away.
if you attempt it yourself maybe you could post some pics.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #48 of 285 Old 10-30-2010, 10:34 PM
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I have been searching for info on replacing and it appears to be a delicate operation as you definitely do not want to break one off or strip threads. Do you use a torque wrench? What socket works best? Specs on max torque for removal and replacement? Slower the better and take your time seems to be the best advice. Is ok to drive with one not working? I was checking some MB forums and they mention to not drive as the glow plugs are used when in regen mode as it adjusts the temperature required if needed. If a plug is not working and it needs to activate while dumping more fuel to raise the temp and it does not happen it will defeat the purpose of the regen as more soot will result.

Tony
2008 GC 3.0L CRD Limited, ProVent Installed, Clear Bra, Scangauge
1999 GC 4.0L Larado
1985 Jeep Larado 4.0L Sold
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post #49 of 285 Old 10-30-2010, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzieque View Post
if you attempt it yourself maybe you could post some pics.
I will try and post pics. I have a busy week so may not be able to do it until next weekend. I will be going back to my 99 WJ. It will be tough. I just replaced the exhaust on that one for the first time.

Tony
2008 GC 3.0L CRD Limited, ProVent Installed, Clear Bra, Scangauge
1999 GC 4.0L Larado
1985 Jeep Larado 4.0L Sold
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post #50 of 285 Old 10-31-2010, 12:00 AM
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It is not a hard procedure at all

You will need a deep socket (I forget the size) and possibly a multimeter (if you don't know the location of the glow plug that is faulty)

Remove Engine Shroud
Remove wire from Glow Plug
Use socket to remove glow plug
Put new glow plug in hole, using fingers to tighten (this way you know you are not cross threading). One it is snug use the socket to tighten (no need to be a "Hulk" while tightening)
Put wire back on
Replace Engine Shroud
Start Engine
(it will take several long trips to clear the engine fault so the engine light will remain on for upto a couple days)
You will know if the plug is functioning if the glow plug indicator illuminates then goes out after start
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post #51 of 285 Old 10-31-2010, 10:01 AM
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I had to replace glow plug #2 and after much searching found some instructions from Beru. It is critical that not more than 20 Nm torque be used to remove the plug. If you exceed 20 Nm the top can snap off and then it is a very expensive process at the dealer to retrieve the rest of the plug. The tightening torque is 10 Nm. Any more than this and the annular ring at the tip of the plug can be deformed, leading to premature plug failure. It is also advisable to change the plugs when the engine is hot.

Here is the exact text from Beru:

Important when replacing glow plugs: Observe torques!

Observe the breakage torque when dismantling glow plugs.

Glow plug thread Breakage torque: (8mm) 20 Nm.

What should you do when the breakage torque has been reached?

On no account carry on turning - the glow plug could otherwise break. Instead, proceed according to the 3-point programme: heat up - release -unscrew:

1. Heat up: Run the engine until it is warm or apply current to the intact glow plug through a separate cable for 4-5 minutes - this heats up the glow plug and burns it free.

2. Release: Apply a generous quantity of anti-rust agent or multi-functional oil to the base of the thread and leave to work in for approx. 5 minutes.

3. Unscrew: Then start a new attempt to unscrew the plug and use suitable tools to release the glow plug from the cylinder head. (Do not exceed the maximum release torque - see table above. Make sure you stop before you reach the breakage torque, if necessary start a new attempt by applying heat.)

After the old glow plugs have been removed, make sure you clean the thread, the pin seat and the glow plug channel with a suitable tool (see below).

Observe the torque specified by the manufacturer when screwing in a new glow plug:

Glow plug thread Tightening torque: (M8) 10 Nm.
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post #52 of 285 Old 10-31-2010, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyVideo View Post
I am thinking of going ahead and buying a spare as I am sure others will fail over time. Then I would be able to replace it right away.
Same here. Mine has 90,000 without a problem, so far.

07 Steel Blue Overland CRD QDII | Bilsteins | 4xguard Matrix | Rear SRT8 SwayBar | DashHawk w/egt | Provent MBRP XP Exhaust | New Intake Tube & Seal + EHM | Alternator Splash Guard | Crank Sensor | GPS AL InMotion Hack | Swirl motor bypass | Blue WK Club Member #13 | 200,000 Mile Club | Dogpiled Club | pre-N23 FDCM |

89 GW w/plow
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post #53 of 285 Old 10-31-2010, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ethorson View Post
Here is the exact text from Beru:

Important when replacing glow plugs: Observe torques!

Observe the breakage torque when dismantling glow plugs.

Glow plug thread Breakage torque: (8mm) 20 Nm.

What should you do when the breakage torque has been reached?

On no account carry on turning - the glow plug could otherwise break. Instead, proceed according to the 3-point programme: heat up - release -unscrew:

1. Heat up: Run the engine until it is warm or apply current to the intact glow plug through a separate cable for 4-5 minutes - this heats up the glow plug and burns it free.

2. Release: Apply a generous quantity of anti-rust agent or multi-functional oil to the base of the thread and leave to work in for approx. 5 minutes.

3. Unscrew: Then start a new attempt to unscrew the plug and use suitable tools to release the glow plug from the cylinder head. (Do not exceed the maximum release torque - see table above. Make sure you stop before you reach the breakage torque, if necessary start a new attempt by applying heat.)

After the old glow plugs have been removed, make sure you clean the thread, the pin seat and the glow plug channel with a suitable tool (see below).

Observe the torque specified by the manufacturer when screwing in a new glow plug:

Glow plug thread Tightening torque: (M8) 10 Nm.
Maybe one should do the 3-point programme first instead of taking the chance of breaking it.

07 Steel Blue Overland CRD QDII | Bilsteins | 4xguard Matrix | Rear SRT8 SwayBar | DashHawk w/egt | Provent MBRP XP Exhaust | New Intake Tube & Seal + EHM | Alternator Splash Guard | Crank Sensor | GPS AL InMotion Hack | Swirl motor bypass | Blue WK Club Member #13 | 200,000 Mile Club | Dogpiled Club | pre-N23 FDCM |

89 GW w/plow
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post #54 of 285 Old 11-03-2010, 09:55 AM
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Good point. I will do this initially and after each attempt if it doesn't work.

Tony
2008 GC 3.0L CRD Limited, ProVent Installed, Clear Bra, Scangauge
1999 GC 4.0L Larado
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post #55 of 285 Old 11-13-2010, 02:31 PM
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I changed glow plug #3 today. It only took a long needle nose plier to get the cap off the top. I couldn't find a torque wrench that went down that low on the specs as required so I bought a extra deep well socket to reach. I should rephrase that, I did find them but they were at least $150.00. I took a chance anyway and did not use one. It unscrewed with ease without much force using a 3/8 ratchet and small extension and came out fine. No major carbon buildup on the glow plug. I couldn't get my big fingers down far enough to hand screw it so I carefully used the socket with an extension and screwed it in by hand and then tightened it down with the ratchet. I didn't put much pressure on tightening it down as it didn't have much pressure to untighten it. I put the cap back on and it fastened ok. The code wouldn't clear so far. Somebody mentioned you have to drive it a few times so I will check to see if it clears or goes out this week. I drive 82 miles to and from work daily so if it doesn't go out then I have other problems.

It honestly took longer to put the intake to the turbo intake back together since I had to take it off to go ahead and change the fuel filter while I was working on it.

Tony
2008 GC 3.0L CRD Limited, ProVent Installed, Clear Bra, Scangauge
1999 GC 4.0L Larado
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post #56 of 285 Old 11-13-2010, 02:33 PM
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I did let the engine warm up first and then sprayed some WD40 on it after popping off the top and let it sit for 15 minutes before taking out the glow plug.

Tony
2008 GC 3.0L CRD Limited, ProVent Installed, Clear Bra, Scangauge
1999 GC 4.0L Larado
1985 Jeep Larado 4.0L Sold
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post #57 of 285 Old 11-13-2010, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyVideo View Post
The code wouldn't clear so far. Somebody mentioned you have to drive it a few times so I will check to see if it clears or goes out this week. I drive 82 miles to and from work daily so if it doesn't go out then I have other problems.
thanks for posting your experience, did you snap a photo at any point during the repair? maybe a photo of the glow plug?

do you have a code reader to clear the code? you could try disconnecting the battery then turn the key on for 15 seconds then turn off the key and reconnect the battery, thats how I used to clear codes before I bought the code reader.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #58 of 285 Old 11-15-2010, 07:05 AM
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I can take a picture of the glow plug probably on Tue. or Wed. and post it. I have a Scangauge but it would not clear the code. This morning however my check engine light did not come up at all on my way to work and the code is gone as well. Overall it is more difficult to change the fuel filter than replace a glow plug. My advice is to just not put a lot of torque on the glow plug either loosening it or tightening it back down.

#3 plug is closest to the firewall on the passenger side and it is the hardest to get to on the left side as you face the Jeep from the front.

I was hoping to take pictures but the past couple weeks has been busy and I just needed to get it and some other maintenance done on the Jeep. I had a window of time available on Saturday and had just 30 minutes to spare when done before leaving again.

Changed my ProVent filter as well at the recommended 50k point and it seemed to look fine with no tears or anything. No oil was found in the intake when I took off the intake to put in a new fuel filter.

Tony
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1999 GC 4.0L Larado
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post #59 of 285 Old 12-12-2010, 12:38 PM
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I can confirm Merlins cylinder numbering. At least as far as #4 is concerned. It was also very easy to check the plugs with an ohmeter. The bad one had infinite resistance. The good ones had about 1.3 ohms cold I think. Anyway, glad it was one of the easy ones to get to. The code reader we got was about $40 and it did a great job. Plus the CD had the Jeep CRD codes or a link to them.

Our glow plug came out easily, but I can see how what Merlin warned about above could happen. They seem a bit fragile. I didnt use a torque wrench, but went by feel and barely went past snug with a 1/4 inch ratchet and 8mm deep socket.

As far as engine temp, I really dont see a need for doing this with engine hot. Cold worked fine. The first one came out with the engine warm, the second when cold the next day. You dont want to remove sparkplugs from a hot engine with aluminum heads. Or its helicoil time. Personally, I would do this glow plug job with engine cold.

Should the female threads in a glow plug hole strip is there a way to repair without removing the head?

07 WK CRD Limited
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post #60 of 285 Old 07-01-2011, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscheier View Post
That is the exact link I ordered from and replaced one of my GPs with. Could it be a part number superceed? I can't find an on-line x-ref.
Anyone else been able to confirm the the RM sourced part is correct for the WK CRDs?

I have an 08 and need to replace a gp. Am planning on buying 6, so the difference in price between RM and Europarts is significant.

Thanks.
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