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Unread 02-07-2013, 08:50 AM   #166
flacrd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brew1 View Post
The Beru GP are all metal. The Beru GP that came in the MB boxes were identical to the ones that I removed from the GC.

My Liberty CRD uses an Italian sourced diesel and I can't comment on the GP used in the Liberty because I've never had to replace one yet.

The GP that I replaced in my VW TDI are also all metal.

Removing the GP from the GC was quite easy. I removed them when the engine was cold and just sprayed them with some Liquid Wrench a few minutes prior to removal. Ask your mechanic to apply some anti-sieze thread compound to the threads on the GP prior to installation. The next person that has to remove the GP will appreciate it.

I'm not sure what the engine code is but I'm pretty sure if you provided the VIN from the dashboard, any Jeep dealer could probably tell you everything you wanted to know about the vehicle, including the engine.

Is the NIB OEM module for $125 a Glow Plug Control Module? I posted the latest revision number from MB in my prior post. The revised MB GP Control Module looked slightly different that the original. I'm hoping the latest revision is an improvement over the original. It seems quite a few of the original units met a premature death. My GC is at about 99,000 miles, but I have to seen several posts where the module expired at much lower mileage.

In any case, I've decided to run the GC without the plastic engine cover to help dissipate heat from sensitive electronic modules trapped under the engine cover. I understand the GDE Hot Tune that the GC is currently running may cause some extra heat to be generated by the turbo.

Good luck with your GC!

Mark
That is a good idea removing that cover. The outside temp often reaches the upper 90's and 100's in the summer here on the road. I just wonder was it designed as a part of the compartment air flow or just a clean-up piece for under hood looks. Mine always has a light coat of sand on it and small sand piles in crannies and corners in every location under the hood.

That is what they said and quoted the module, I guess a picture from them would confirm this part.

My TDI has never been worked on. I have a cousin that now has my 98 New Beetlle TDI @ 202,000 only drivetrain parts like clutch and cv joints, various front end pieces. Engine never touched except routine items.

About the Liberty. My wife stills wants it back. Of the twenty months we owned it sat at the Dealer more than home. We pleaded with Jeep to fix it, replace it but no luck. She said it felt like driving a large truck with good manners? The size fit her because she sat up high enough to see out well. Also it would fit in the garage behind the VW because of it's size.

The VM engine. I don't think I have heard anyone say anything good about it. I was sorry to hear the 2014 GC will use a larger version of this for the new diesel in it rated at 30mpg or 730 miles on a tank. Not a deal breaker but the warranty better be there like the 100k on the other products. It sure does look good with the led lights and the 8 speed gearbox and 20 in wheels and the 8.4 in Nav screen and the "King Ranch" style leather and panoramic roof and so on. I've only glanced at it briefly you know.

I should have the glow plugs tomorrow and plan to get them installed next week at the dealer for $85.00, I know, but there is a method to the madness. It has never been to the dealer and there are several outstanding TSB's that need to be applied like the one for brake load sensor and the one for the squeak, rattle and buzzing noise under the hood that is on my nerves now. I have heard another CRD do it as well at start up and low speed and shut off. It's something around the the right side exhaust, anyway I saw the TSB for it and was amazed. There are several TSB's more to look at as well.

Thank you again for the advice and info. Looking forward to your posts.

Steven


Last edited by flacrd; 02-07-2013 at 08:55 AM.. Reason: clarify
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Unread 02-07-2013, 02:27 PM   #167
terrasmak
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Ive read way to many cylinder orders , i need to swap my #3 glow plug. What one is it?
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Unread 02-07-2013, 05:17 PM   #168
flacrd
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That's a good question, same here. I have seen at least four different patterns. I just decided to change them all due to the frequency of repeated failures. I'm sure someone on here knows the correct answer.
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Unread 02-07-2013, 05:44 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrasmak View Post
Ive read way to many cylinder orders , i need to swap my #3 glow plug. What one is it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by flacrd View Post
That's a good question, same here. I have seen at least four different patterns. I just decided to change them all due to the frequency of repeated failures. I'm sure someone on here knows the correct answer.
I can confirm that this is the correct pattern:

==(PASS)===FIREWALL===(DRIVER)==

3---------------------------- 6

2---------------------------- 5

1---------------------------- 4

=======GRILL=========
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Unread 02-07-2013, 06:24 PM   #170
flacrd
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Yes, I agree diesels are in order left to right, gas even/odd. I do remember that now from the Army just needed the right clue to get it back from the cobb webs.
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Unread 02-07-2013, 09:55 PM   #171
brew1
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jjt250, that is the correct diagram for North American vehicles.

flacrd, the Liberty CRD certainly has many more drivetrain issues than the GC CRD. However, we've had far more non-drivetrain issues with the GC CRD, self leveling headlight motors, ignition, nav system, tire pressure monitoring sensors, alternator, windshield wiper sprayers.

The only things I like more about the GC CRD than the Liberty CRD are the MB engine/drivetrain and the longer wheelbase/smoother ride.

I'd have to think long and hard before purchasing another Jeep product after my experience with the Liberty and GC CRD's. I've had a far better experience with my 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon. I'm thinking an Audi sport utility vehicle with the Quattro drivetrain will be our next purchase when replacing a vehicle. Liberty most likely since I'm getting tired of the rattling marbles engine sound and the short wheel base fishtailing on icy or wet pavement.
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Unread 02-08-2013, 08:37 AM   #172
flacrd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brew1 View Post
jjt250, that is the correct diagram for North American vehicles.

flacrd, the Liberty CRD certainly has many more drivetrain issues than the GC CRD. However, we've had far more non-drivetrain issues with the GC CRD, self leveling headlight motors, ignition, nav system, tire pressure monitoring sensors, alternator, windshield wiper sprayers.

The only things I like more about the GC CRD than the Liberty CRD are the MB engine/drivetrain and the longer wheelbase/smoother ride.

I'd have to think long and hard before purchasing another Jeep product after my experience with the Liberty and GC CRD's. I've had a far better experience with my 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon. I'm thinking an Audi sport utility vehicle with the Quattro drivetrain will be our next purchase when replacing a vehicle. Liberty most likely since I'm getting tired of the rattling marbles engine sound and the short wheel base fishtailing on icy or wet pavement.
That's interesting I was looking at the Audi and the 2013 Toureg supercharged TDI. There's not an Audi near me so that's probably out. I have a Jeep and VW dealer within three miles. I cannot believe that I bought the GC after the problem laden Liberty, but got six years with no dealer visits for anything with the GC something to be said for that. I confirmed the 100k warranty for the 2014 GC CRD. So the extended warranty will cost less because of the long factory coverage. It has some great features and price when compared to the Toureg and Audi and there is a diesel electric hybrid available to.

I told my wife when driving the Liberty in the rain just put it in 4WD and go. I'l' worry about the tires and gearbox later. It surprised me once with the turbo kicking in at the wrong time and it did about a 270 degree spin at a wet heavily painted street intersection. Yes it was a myriad of issues with it from bumper to bumper. I blamed most of it on the wiring harness (replaced twice). The engine other than the poorly designed crankcase ventilation system was also plagued by the electrical system with shorts that affected nearly every component. I need the towing capability sometimes but am rethinking that as well maybe renting a tow vehicle. Florida has a consumer biased lemon law system and it worked well for me. I want to sit up high in a vehicle so this will take more research this time.
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Unread 02-09-2013, 08:12 PM   #173
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Changed the #3 plug today, reset the codes and it came back. OHM checked the plug vis the new one, they were the same. Guess I will change a different #3 tomorrow
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Unread 02-10-2013, 02:10 AM   #174
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Did you use the order above? I used that when I replaced my number 6 and it worked for me. The light takes a few drives to go away. I tried to clear mine but the only way for it to go away for me was to drive it a few times. Maybe your glow plug module is bad?
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Unread 02-10-2013, 08:40 AM   #175
terrasmak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjt250 View Post
Did you use the order above? I used that when I replaced my number 6 and it worked for me. The light takes a few drives to go away. I tried to clear mine but the only way for it to go away for me was to drive it a few times. Maybe your glow plug module is bad?
Yes i used the firing order listed above, your #6 plug is in the same location in 2 our of the 3 listed cylinder orders. My #3 cylinder is different in the 3 listed orders. I doubt the above order is correct.

If you clear the ECU with a code reader , the code should be gone. The module should throw a code different than a #3 glow plug code.
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Unread 02-10-2013, 09:25 AM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrasmak View Post
Yes i used the firing order listed above, your #6 plug is in the same location in 2 our of the 3 listed cylinder orders. My #3 cylinder is different in the 3 listed orders. I doubt the above order is correct.

If you clear the ECU with a code reader , the code should be gone. The module should throw a code different than a #3 glow plug code.
I tried twice with a code reader and it still came back right afterwards. The only way mine went away was to drive it 5-7 times. I've heard of people who had a glow plug light but when they replaced it, it still stayed on for an abnormal amount of time. They replaced the module and it worked fine. Pretty sure there was a case like that on Jeep Garage, if you want to check it out.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 01:38 PM   #177
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Glow plugs fixed now a new question

The glow plugs were all changed today. Before starting the change out checked the OBD II again and got a new addition to P0672 that started this. It was P0673 showing that another glow plug had failed. Sure glad I bought all six. Number six glow plug was the tough one. Between the overhead bracket and wiring bundle in the way it took the most time. Checked and cleaned the connections on the gp module it has no serviceable parts. Hope it will last a while.

The next question I have is what is the part called that is attached to the end of the long metal hose coming from the turbo charger running to the front of the engine? It black plastic with a couple dozen screws around it? The pipe from the turbo makes the 90 degree turn heading down towards the bottom of the front of the engine with clamp connection to this black piece in question. I have an oil leak/seep/weep from the connection? The oil is only on the right side of the block.

Does anyone know of a exploded view of this engine is available?
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Unread 02-13-2013, 01:53 PM   #178
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It is a type of muffler to muffle the airflow noise. Its a pain to remove due to space. Search around, some of the guys removed them and took the baffles out to increase airflow (myself included) Not sure it made any difference and would not bother doing it again.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 07:33 PM   #179
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are you referring to the "resonator" described in this thread?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/w...-pipe-1403115/
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Unread 02-14-2013, 10:06 AM   #180
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Resonator?

Thanks for the replies CRDers. Yes it is tight even to look at. Do you think this is were the oil leak is coming from? Since there was oil present in the turbo openings during the glow plug change out that I saw it would stand to reason that it would be under pressure and leak from the resonator, Its irritating that I cannot see exactly were its coming from. It is the obvious culprit.
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