I have a small CEL reader that cleared up the codes for me. The code was P0087. Anyway, I backed it up until the light didn't come back on. It would come on if I mashed on the go pedal between half and 3/4. Now I believe I'm at level A. I will check tomorrow and see. Do you think that Jeep might have adjusted the '08 computer. Man but what a difference in power. It almost feels like my 300C hemi, but with wayyyyy more torque!
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
Yeah, the torque (especially on the highway and from a dig) is very-very nice. I'd get a reading on that code to ensure that nothing else is going awry in the bay. As long as the )Z( doesn't come back you should be okay. I'm starting to wonder if they've augmented the tolerances also.
Not sure to whom this question was directed, apologies if out of turn:
Mine does not. Although (and I know I sound like a broken record, sorry) I would very seriously consider an pyrometer. Returning from a trip yesterday I was overtaking uphill on the highway and looked down to see almost 1,400*F in exhaust gas. I looked to the right of the EGT (as my config goes) to read DPF temps and sure enough... 1,306*F (regen).
Hi All, before all the flames start as a result of my post here, please note that unless otherwise stated, everything I say here is simply my opinion. It is simply meant as a warning. I have not installed or used this tuner box and am only stating my opinion based on what I have read about it.
I would strongly advise anyone who uses their CRD as a daily driver to use extreme caution with regard to installing tuner boxes or chip tunes to their vehicle. In general, these tuning boxes work by fooling the engine computer (ECU) into dumping more fuel which in a diesel is a cheap way to get more power. I personally would not install this or any other performance chiptune in my vehicle for a couple of reasons.
1) Modern vehicle drivetrain components are generally designed with a certain level of tolerance built-in to them...for example there is generally a little room to go higher on HP/torque and still be below the maximum ratings of said components. On newer vehicles these tolerances tend to be smaller and smaller with each new model year that comes out....the main factor of course being cost. With this said, increasing power means more strain on these components and hence may result in shorter service life of said component.
2) Emissions equipment and EGT are another factor on new diesels. I am not an expert by any means, but if more fuel is going in....one can only deduce that more soot will be created...hence frequency of regen for the DPF would have to increase which could shorten the life of the component. With regard to EGT, these vehicles alaredy see pretty high EGT with the DPF installed and adding more fuel will increase EGT and in turn increase the potential for premature meltdown.
3) Reliability, pretty much 1+2, if you are using the vehicle as a daily driver you need something that is reliable and operating the vehicle outside of designed specification can cause reliablity issues.
4) Maintenance, throw the maintenance schedule out the window because when you operate the vehicle outside the specifications the manufaturer maintenance recommendations go out the window and the vehicle will generally need more frequent oil changes and UOA to determine frequency.
Again, not trying to burst anyones bubble or put anyone down who is using the product...but way too many people out there go chipping their vehicles or installing tuner boxes and they don't fully understand the ramifications of what they are doing. They are certainly fun and all that...but at what expense?
There are of course correct ways to go about this too....like Three Oh DSL has installed an EGT probe to monitor his EGT and using the dashhawk to monitor other things....but this is just pretty much a word of caution.
The reason I am posting this in the first place is because I came over from TDIclub and over there were many posts about blown turbos and other failures from people who had their vehicles chipped. This is simply a word of caution and should be taken as such....I am not trying to discourage anyone from having fun with their WK.
__________________ SOLD 2008 WK CRD Limited 4x4 - Jeep Green
Warning, the following product is for mature audiences only. Driver discretion is advised.
Just kidding. You make a really good point. I think most of the users who've read this entire thread have (hopefully) ascertained the level of danger inherent with this type of mod.
As stated earlier, you can attempt to combat higher EGTs by installing a well-breathing filter. My personal recommendation would be the removal of the CAT and DPF (which I know a lot of us are already researching). A better exhaust should take nominal temps down by at least 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
While we're talking about DPFs, the life of said product shouldn't be diminished by any marginal amount at best. Plenty of gassers are out there running FAR too lean and aren't plugging converters. The same can be said for any diesel truck assembled prior to the gov't diesel exhaust restrictions. I haven't talked with any drivers who've plugged a CAT while dumping more than the factory spec of fuel down the pipe.
I understand the openings on a DPF are smaller, but I think this is still a valid deduction. Whats more, most of us in the "tuning/performance" crowd intend very seriously to remove these devices altogether.
As for the drive train. -Personally, I can't say I'm very worried at this juncture *knocks on wood*. The small addition of power given from this device shouldn't be any more stress for the drive train components than a stock 3.0 with a full-load limit trailer going uphill with a strong headwind.
A good way to ensure your power additions will play nicely with the vehicle is to remove weight from the vehicle. -Remember, every little pound helps! Oh, and your MPG will improve too, with enough dead weight missing that is.
Thanks for bringing this to the table no-blue-screen.
---Good insight and fair warning to all who dare set foot down this path...
I installed a cr plus last November in my 08 GC 3.0L. Have to run it on 8 or below or get CEL. Noticed big difference when installed, much stronger running. Moved up to 9 three weeks ago and CEL came on again, lowered it back to three where normally it would go off, but this time it did not. I was scheduled to have oil change so I ran with it on 1 setting for two weeks, unhooked battery, still on, so I took unit off 3 or 4 days before taking into jeep for oil change. Sure noticed difference with it off. Jeep did inspection and found P code 0087, same as posted above. They say code is for "low fuel rial Pressure". Anyway, leaving cr plus off today for a short road trip. will reinstll on Friday for the same trip and will compare fuel milage. I am sure it will be better.
I lifted my GC with a 2" Teraflex kit. Am running Toyo 265/70R17 with Ultra wheels. I can tell need to upgrad shocks, thinking about Bilstein, any suggestions from anyone.
Also, ordered new "Filter Back" exhause today from www.mbrp.com with 3 inch tubing. It does away with the small muffler and they claim no error codes. We will see next week when I intall it. Should be very simple as Filter as a flange and two bolts to attach it to.
Where can I purchase a CEL unit you described above in a post?
Am thinking serious about installing cone air filter and moving sensor. Sounds pretty straight forward, any other suggestions would be nice.
Are all of tuning boxes based no dumping more fuel pressure into cylinders?
Fancy tuning box manufacturers swear that they have nothing to do with fuel pressure, but instead offer more refined engine management, real time tuning for each partucular engine. I just bought Brabus D6 kit, should be here in a day, or two, however after reading warning posts from more cautions members here, I am not sure if I want to install it if all it does is rasing fuel pressure and overheating exhaust, by doing so.
BTW, can someone recommend good exhaust temp sensor kit?