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Unread 06-11-2008, 03:39 PM   #61
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The choice between the CR and CR+ is up to you my friend. I found the filter at a local auto parts store. The ID on my filter neck is 3" as apposed to the proper 3.25" ID. It is possible to "make" it fit, though personally I'm not thrilled with fitting the filter in this manner.

-Any other questions in mind?

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Unread 06-12-2008, 11:22 AM   #62
NetworkMD
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The is a great Thread

Can you tell me the correct K&N drop in filter to use?

In areas where it is legal is it feasible to remove the DPF? would that provide a major benefit? I really don't care for that fireball underneath

Thanks
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Unread 06-12-2008, 12:00 PM   #63
defender
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I Think I will try the CR+. Any pics of the relocated sensor?
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Unread 06-12-2008, 02:13 PM   #64
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Here's the relocated BARO sensor. I picked this spot specifically for its relatively flat surface area.


Here's a pic of the EGT Probe. -Not for any good reason, just felt like putting this up here too.
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Unread 06-12-2008, 02:22 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NetworkMD View Post
The is a great Thread

Can you tell me the correct K&N drop in filter to use?

In areas where it is legal is it feasible to remove the DPF? would that provide a major benefit? I really don't care for that fireball underneath

Thanks

--I personally cannot recommend a K&N filter. Sorry!

Regarding the DPF:

From experience I'd tell you to expect a few things:

1. Increased fuel mileage

2. Lowered exhaust gas temps

3. (Most likely) Computer will throw the engine into limp-home mode

4. Acceleration will be reduced to about 20%


-If you find a way to knock it out without throwing codes, it should be a really fun mod. Ahhh... dreams.
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Unread 06-12-2008, 02:31 PM   #66
mister17_5_9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three Oh DSL View Post
If you find a way to knock it out without throwing codes, it should be a really fun mod. Ahhh... dreams.

or realities unpursued???
__________________
-05 Dodge Ram 1-ton, 3.73s, G56... MP-8, SBC DD 3600#, Airdog 150, CFM+, AEM intake, FBD 5" turbo-back, AMSOIL bypass
-06 Jeep COMMIE... with the 5.7L exhaust leak king HEMI
-and a bit of wrench work on some 07 CRD which is heavily UN-modified... lol
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Unread 06-12-2008, 09:24 PM   #67
defender
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So just drill a hole bing enough for the sensor and screw it on the plastic piece.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Three Oh DSL View Post
Here's the relocated BARO sensor. I picked this spot specifically for its relatively flat surface area.


Here's a pic of the EGT Probe. -Not for any good reason, just felt like putting this up here too.
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Unread 06-13-2008, 12:18 AM   #68
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Three holes. The Dremel is your friend! -Be sure to clean up any loose pieces of frayed plastic.
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Unread 06-13-2008, 11:35 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defender View Post
So just drill a hole bing enough for the sensor and screw it on the plastic piece.
Sorry, I didn't completely read your post.

The BARO has two self-threading screws located on either side of the sensor (in the middle of the unit). Be sure to drill the center hole with as little clearence to make a good seal. As for the screws, just give them enough of a hole to bore and they'll tighten right up.
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Unread 06-13-2008, 04:57 PM   #70
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Can you tell me the correct K&N drop in filter to use?

Part number - 332233
I guess some people are against these filters but I never had any problems...
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Unread 06-14-2008, 10:09 AM   #71
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Here's a link for that part on the K&N website.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/deal...x?part=33-2233

---------

I don't have anything against the filter, though I find the open cone has further increased air flow over the K&N as well as quicker spool for the turbo. Good luck!
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Unread 06-19-2008, 03:32 PM   #72
defender
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Ok, so I received my PowerBox CR today for my 08 CRD, but I tried to install it and none of the plugs line up to my stock ports unless I am looking at the wrong sensor? Can anyone tell me where the sensor is on the engine?
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Unread 06-19-2008, 03:56 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three Oh DSL View Post
I just picked up the PowerboxCR
Attachment 48261


Installation was a breeze, except I could have waited for the engine to cool first, saving a scald or two.

All That was needed for the install:

10mm socket w/extension and driver
Slip-joint pliers

Image copyright Howstuffworks.com
1 Zip-tie (included)
1 small width flat head screw driver


My actual installation went as follows:
Quote:
  • Using the ratchet with 10mm socket, remove the engine cover
  • Next, locate the bolt securing the transmission dipstick tube located on the passenger side against the firewall
  • Remove the bolt and gently move the dipstick tube to the side
  • Using the pliers, secure the tool over the sensor boot located at the very end of the fuel rail
  • Apply enough pressure to depress the release mechanism in the connector and guide the pliers toward the firewall
  • With the fuel rail connector removed, attach the first of the two plugs on the PowerboxCR to the fuel rail using the connector matching the original just removed
  • Attach the remaining factory fuel rail connector to the remaining connector on the PowerboxCR
  • Fasten your PowerboxCR using the provided zip tie or any secure method
  • Replace the bolts for your transmission dipstick tube and engine cover

Tuning the box is just as easy, though making any adjustments will require you to go under the hood with the small screw driver. Adjustments for increased power are achieved by turning the adjustment screw counter-clockwise one whole turn at a time. You can reduce the box's effect by turning the screw clockwise.


==Gains==

At the factory default setting, no noticeable difference was observed. However, by adjusting the screw counter-clockwise by four whole turns a new engine springs to life. I have not gone much farther than four turns of the screw to date. With the PowerboxCR working under the hood shredding some tire is not hard to do from an idle launch.

Additionally, having been embarrassed by a friend's 3500 5.9 Cummins with a DiabloSport Powerpuck only a week ago, I was anxious to wreak my revenge. The rematch was nothing like before. Originally, the RAM 3500 pulled away from my stock setup as if I had completely lifted the accelerator. This time was the complete opposite.

The power delivery appears to be much smoother. The power band feels more consistent and really shows it's stuff during highway overtaking. I don't have an EGT installed at this time, but I am monitoring rail pressure, A/F ratio, CAT temps and ECT via DashHawk. The only difference thus far has been A/F ratio. Cat temps can creep faster than before on the highway, but this is generally limited to full throttle jaunts lasting more than a quarter-mile.

***Fuel mileage has increased by 2mpg*** (provided you leave the lead foot at home) and engine temps are normal.

The TDC website makes the following claims at increased power for the 3.0 CRD engine:

Original
kW 160
HP 215
PS/bhp 218
ft/lbs Torque 376
NM 510


With TDC PowerBox
kW 190
HP 254
PS/bhp 258
ft/lbs Torque 443
NM 600


Sorry for the lack of pictures. Perhaps I can add them later.


The sensor is located (facing the front of the vehicle) on the left bank against the firewall, attached to the end of the fuel rail.
(from page 1)
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Unread 06-19-2008, 06:59 PM   #74
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Thanks. I finally installed it. Took me 5 minutes. On a side note, is the engine cover supposed to be a bit loose or the bolts supposed to be all the way down. For some reason my bolts have a small gap between the cover and the head and they are tight. Anyway, the PowerBoc CR+ has settings going from 0(off)-9 then A-F. I tried the 9 setting, I felt a bit of a difference, since I wasn't at full throttle. Then I stopped, and put it up to F just to see. Normal throttle was OK, when I decided to give it some and as soon as I did the check engine light came on and a red sorta lightning bolt surrounded by two lines lit up. So I lowered it back to 9, the bolt went away but the CEL is still there. Anyone else use the CR+. What level have you used it at?
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Unread 06-20-2008, 09:39 AM   #75
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I don't know what to tell you regarding the engine cover, as mine does tighten snugly. Maybe you could back the bolts out until you hear the threads click, then re-tighten.

As for the CR+: I remember reading in the instructions that some vehicles will generate a code for increased fuel delivery outside of a certain spec. -Paraphrasing, of course. If you've backed the device down to 9 from "15" (F is Hex code for values above 9) and the ETC )Z( light went away, you should be fine.

I don't know if the CR+ has a higher fuel delivery than the CR, but I can run the CR at full power and at this setting with no MIL lights. Possibly, the 2008 ECU has been enhanced to restrict the increased values for fuel that the CR+ provides. This may be in an effort to reduce the "diesel" sound of *pre-detonation*.

If you take the Jeep to an auto parts store, they'll be able to clear the "CEL" for you. However, the specific computer which generated the CEL will show a historic code in StarScan. -Be aware of this just in case you have a dealer who is really anal.
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