I just picked up the PowerboxCR
Installation was a breeze
, except I could have waited for the engine to cool first, saving a scald or two.
All That was needed for the install:
10mm socket w/extension and driver
Image copyright Howstuffworks.com
1 Zip-tie (included)
1 small width flat head screw driver
My actual installation went as follows:
- Using the ratchet with 10mm socket, remove the engine cover
- Next, locate the bolt securing the transmission dipstick tube located on the passenger side against the firewall
- Remove the bolt and gently move the dipstick tube to the side
- Using the pliers, secure the tool over the sensor boot located at the very end of the fuel rail
- Apply enough pressure to depress the release mechanism in the connector and guide the pliers toward the firewall
- With the fuel rail connector removed, attach the first of the two plugs on the PowerboxCR to the fuel rail using the connector matching the original just removed
- Attach the remaining factory fuel rail connector to the remaining connector on the PowerboxCR
- Fasten your PowerboxCR using the provided zip tie or any secure method
- Replace the bolts for your transmission dipstick tube and engine cover
Tuning the box is just as easy, though making any adjustments will require you to go under the hood with the small screw driver. Adjustments for increased power are achieved by turning the adjustment screw counter
-clockwise one whole turn at a time. You can reduce the box's effect by turning the screw clockwise.
At the factory default setting, no noticeable difference was observed. However, by adjusting the screw counter-clockwise
by four whole turns a new engine springs to life. I have not gone much farther than four turns of the screw to date. With the PowerboxCR working under the hood shredding some tire is not hard to do from an idle launch.
Additionally, having been embarrassed by a friend's 3500 5.9 Cummins with a DiabloSport Powerpuck only a week ago, I was anxious to wreak my revenge. The rematch was nothing like before. Originally, the RAM 3500 pulled away from my stock setup as if I had completely lifted the accelerator. This time was the complete opposite.
The power delivery appears to be much smoother. The power band feels more consistent and really
shows it's stuff during highway overtaking.
I don't have an EGT installed at this time, but I am monitoring rail pressure, A/F ratio, CAT temps and ECT via DashHawk
. The only difference thus far has been A/F ratio. Cat temps can creep faster than before on the highway, but this is generally limited to full throttle jaunts lasting more than a quarter-mile.
***Fuel mileage has increased by 2mpg***
(provided you leave the lead foot at home) and engine temps are normal.
The TDC website makes the following claims at increased power for the 3.0 CRD engine:
With TDC PowerBox
Sorry for the lack of pictures. Perhaps I can add them later.