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Unread 10-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #46
revitup
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The DPF was already replaced on warranty a couple of months ago, so from that angle it shouldn't be to bad to get those flange bolts off, and I have some BP Blaster to soak em with. I'll jack her up well and see what I can do. If it looks like it's something I can handle I'll do it, if not I'll just leave it for an other day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaje View Post
Before starting - generously SPRAY the bolts now with some kind of penetrating oil to loosen up the nuts holding it on (it takes time and lots of vibration to get the oil to soak in). They will be rusted to a degree. WD-40 or PB Blaster might work but I use Aerokroil which is an industrial strength penetrating oil. Chirpz has a great DIY writeup on DPF removal as well.


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Unread 10-28-2013, 11:01 PM   #47
BAH101
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If they are stuck, use a propane torch to heat them, not red hot, but hot, then hit them with penetrant and let cool. Nuts should come right off after that.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 11:28 PM   #48
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There's also the wax treatment - get them really hot then use an old wax candle and get the melted wax on the nut and it'll get sucked right into the threads (old trick a friend uses on really old cars he works on).
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Unread 10-30-2013, 05:31 PM   #49
revitup
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Just removed my DPF. JEEEEEZ talk about the job from hell.

I read all the lit and saoked the nuts/bolts with BP Blaster. To make a long story short every bolt/stud broke. Then I could not seperate the DPF from the sysyem. Had to get a saws all, jack the car up higher and cut all the bolts, the 3 studds closest to the engine. Finally got the sucker off. Then could not get the studs out of the DPF, so I had to heat the whole flange set up with my propoane garage heater..just a hudge blow touch, and then hammer the crap out of them to get them out.

Really, it was brutal, all the bolts had to be perswaded, took all my strenght, oil and Blaster dripping in your hair and eyes, sliding around on you back, couple of hanger bolts and flange bolts you can't even see. The two swage lock fiiting on the DPF were almost siezed, I could'ny believe who was the idiot who put them on so tight. JJEEEEEZ and then when I finished, party time....out of Beer!!!WTF.

Shooooo, If your not sure about your tools or talent don't start this project.

In any case just ordered my SS DPF insert pipe from "tnadanzig" he says it will be shipped by Friday. I should have my ECO Green tune any day now. Moving right along.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 07:41 PM   #50
fishinbama
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Must be all the salt up there, mine weren't that bad, I did let them soak for a few days first. I still have no problems at all with just gutting mine. Cost me nothing.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 08:20 PM   #51
zc911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup View Post
Just removed my DPF. JEEEEEZ talk about the job from hell.

I read all the lit and saoked the nuts/bolts with BP Blaster. To make a long story short every bolt/stud broke. Then I could not seperate the DPF from the sysyem. Had to get a saws all, jack the car up higher and cut all the bolts, the 3 studds closest to the engine. Finally got the sucker off. Then could not get the studs out of the DPF, so I had to heat the whole flange set up with my propoane garage heater..just a hudge blow touch, and then hammer the crap out of them to get them out.

Really, it was brutal, all the bolts had to be perswaded, took all my strenght, oil and Blaster dripping in your hair and eyes, sliding around on you back, couple of hanger bolts and flange bolts you can't even see. The two swage lock fiiting on the DPF were almost siezed, I could'ny believe who was the idiot who put them on so tight. JJEEEEEZ and then when I finished, party time....out of Beer!!!WTF.

Shooooo, If your not sure about your tools or talent don't start this project.

In any case just ordered my SS DPF insert pipe from "tnadanzig" he says it will be shipped by Friday. I should have my ECO Green tune any day now. Moving right along.
Haha I could have told you that I got lazy and paid $95 for a shop to deal with it when I could not get my sawzal up to the top bolt on the flange with 3 bolts
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Unread 10-30-2013, 09:03 PM   #52
BAH101
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Mine was the same. Front bolts were so badly corroded there was nothing to get a wrench on. Just cut the bolts with the sawzall.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 09:06 AM   #53
GCDIESEL4ME
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup View Post
Just removed my DPF. JEEEEEZ talk about the job from hell.

I read all the lit and saoked the nuts/bolts with BP Blaster. To make a long story short every bolt/stud broke. Then I could not seperate the DPF from the sysyem. Had to get a saws all, jack the car up higher and cut all the bolts, the 3 studds closest to the engine. Finally got the sucker off. Then could not get the studs out of the DPF, so I had to heat the whole flange set up with my propoane garage heater..just a hudge blow touch, and then hammer the crap out of them to get them out.

Really, it was brutal, all the bolts had to be perswaded, took all my strenght, oil and Blaster dripping in your hair and eyes, sliding around on you back, couple of hanger bolts and flange bolts you can't even see. The two swage lock fiiting on the DPF were almost siezed, I could'ny believe who was the idiot who put them on so tight. JJEEEEEZ and then when I finished, party time....out of Beer!!!WTF.

Shooooo, If your not sure about your tools or talent don't start this project.

In any case just ordered my SS DPF insert pipe from "tnadanzig" he says it will be shipped by Friday. I should have my ECO Green tune any day now. Moving right along.

You said it was replaced a couple months ago? I would suspect not if it was this corroded up. This should have been easy to remove.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 01:23 PM   #54
revitup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCDIESEL4ME View Post
You said it was replaced a couple months ago? I would suspect not if it was this corroded up. This should have been easy to remove.
Yes Sir, I was thinking the same thing. But will have to verify. The wife cannot find our folder with all the dealer work/repair receipts in it.

On sorta a similar note, I drove the car home from the shop, about 5 miles max, (while it was at the shop all week I thought they may as well change the oil) and during this DPF removal project I checked the oil on the dip stick. It was black-as-black can be, with no clear oily swirls on the edges of the stick. Ya know I would not be at all surprised.....and up here it's $280 every 10,000 kls.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 01:51 PM   #55
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Your engine oil will be so much less polluted once your start running with the DPF removed. I was amazed at now much cleaner the oil was after I switched. Also the oil analysis I get with each oil change agrees with the lower amounts of contaminates. Also you will have a wider range and less expensive of oils to run once deleted.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 02:04 PM   #56
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I agree my oil is much clearer and I'm now changing it less often. Based on what others have reported in their oil analysis without a DPF you can easily go up from 10000km oil changes to 15000km interval oil changes.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 03:38 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup View Post
On sorta a similar note, I drove the car home from the shop, about 5 miles max, (while it was at the shop all week I thought they may as well change the oil) and during this DPF removal project I checked the oil on the dip stick. It was black-as-black can be, with no clear oily swirls on the edges of the stick. Ya know I would not be at all surprised.....and up here it's $280 every 10,000 kls.
Well.... its not like a gasser. My XJ with the 4.0 inline six will keep clean oil for quite a while. The CRD is not so....it goes jet black very very fast. Now that I have the eco tune and dpf delete, it is cleaner than before but it does get dark pretty fast.

Are you saying that you drove it home 5 miles and then checked the oil and after 5 miles and it was jet black.....if that is what you meant, then that does sound fishy....although not impossible.

In my pre-ECO days, I remember my 1st oil change....the very next day it was jet black again....I don't know the number of miles I drove in that short period but it was not many.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 03:44 PM   #58
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You also have to wonder, "did they change the oil correctly?"

Some workers suck the oil out with a suction tube...does that get it all?

And then, do they pour the first few quarts down the filter hole?

Do they drip any on the alternator, located right under the fill cap?
This can cause premature alternator failure.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 06:01 PM   #59
GCDIESEL4ME
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup View Post
Yes Sir, I was thinking the same thing. But will have to verify. The wife cannot find our folder with all the dealer work/repair receipts in it.

On sorta a similar note, I drove the car home from the shop, about 5 miles max, (while it was at the shop all week I thought they may as well change the oil) and during this DPF removal project I checked the oil on the dip stick. It was black-as-black can be, with no clear oily swirls on the edges of the stick. Ya know I would not be at all surprised.....and up here it's $280 every 10,000 kls.

My old GMC 6.5 TD would be instantly black if you did not blow all the old out of the oil cooler, it held a fair amount of black oil.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 08:10 PM   #60
revitup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnadanzig View Post
Your engine oil will be so much less polluted once your start running with the DPF removed. I was amazed at now much cleaner the oil was after I switched. Also the oil analysis I get with each oil change agrees with the lower amounts of contaminates. Also you will have a wider range and less expensive of oils to run once deleted.
Yeh, I'm starting to get excited. So Tnadanzig do you think you will be ready to ship the DPF insert pipe tomorrow. I wanta see some bling and some clean(er) oil.

Now I'll start do my own oil changes, I'm thinking Mobile 1 ESP 5W30 with some sort of new way to catch the oil/spray/mess, will figure something out when I put on the DPF insert.
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