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Unread 10-23-2013, 11:20 PM   #16
fatfreddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup View Post
But if you just go with the GDE DPF tune you just turn of the regeneration program of the ECU, is that true. If so then the DPF will just gum-up all the faster? Therefore, would it not be better to do the GDE DPF tune and gut the DPF?

I take it also that when I take it in to the dealer, to maintain the extended warranty I will have to to put it back into the stock setting. I will contact my extended warranty people (Ensureall) tomorrow and see if I can maintain the warranty with these mods.

And once again you guys have been a great help.

Also please bear in mind, as in my case, there are maybe allot more people out there reading this info who require help and you will never hear from them.
If you have extended warranty,why won't they cover the swirl repair?It should also be covered under the emissions warranty which is around 82000 miles.

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Unread 10-24-2013, 10:28 AM   #17
tnadanzig
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It is amazing how you get screwed by the dealers. Get them to cover under warranty first. I would get the GDE tune or resistor it if they won't warranty it. If you are worried about the warranty don't get the DPF delete, but the dealer can't see that the dpf maps are shut off. Now if they flash the ECM for an updated software version than you will not be able to drive it home except in limp mode. But I haven't heard about any newer software versions for quite some time. Plus this engine combo is obsolete so Chrysler isn't going to put any effort into the software and less for TSB or recall issues.
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Unread 10-24-2013, 10:35 AM   #18
WKDiesel
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I heard of people getting it replaced for around 2k. Chrysler method is to replace the entire intake manifold when you can just replace the motor.
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Unread 10-24-2013, 06:38 PM   #19
revitup
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Here is the latest up-date: We are still waiting from Ensrall for a response. I have talked to them several times and have emailed them a pile of links from various sites about this Swirl Valve design flaw. They have requested that we fax all our service records to them. Now get this, some one is lying. The dealer Unique Chrysler says they have faxed al the records, including pictures of the car and tires, twice and Insurall says they have not received them. So now we/I have to fax all our records, good thing we have some of them. Sure is good to know that we have an ECO Tune option (more power and mileage, sounds great) instead of about an $8,000 fee.

I talked to the Ensureall Tech Rep. Dino (1-800-361-7226) for some time and emailed him some great info. I also told him to call Chrysler Canada Customer relations Tracy (1-800-465-2001) and have a good go with her. We all should be raising hell now and not waiting till it happens to us. Further IMHO this design flaw is so bad it is contemptable. We just should not take it.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 07:26 AM   #20
Radcrd
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Do the resistor mod temporarily (or permanently) so at least you can be up and running. IF it was my Jeep I would NOT let them fix it and just tune it. Mine was replaced by previous owner under warrantee just before I purchased it. The dealer did a half a$$ job, many wires and hoses where not put back in their original positions, clips were broken, they did not replace the leaking intake tube, bolts were missing etc... They apparently pulled the engine out to fix it as the broke the intake flaps and had to replace the manifolds causing more harm than good.
My thoughts, replace the leaking intake tube (which is the root cause for failure) around $100, and GDE tune it. Then smile all the way home
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Unread 10-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #21
revitup
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Latest up-date, please post this all over this forum and please buyer beware.

After jumping through hoops; taking pictures of car, tires etc. and sending in all service recods (how can one do that if you are in the middle of no where or use multiple garages) the dealer gets a phone call. INSURALL says that if I give the dealership the go-ahead they can proceed but INSURALL want more pictures of all the parts removed and they want to know what caused the fault light to come. This is because there might be sludge build-up. (So forget this BS I'll go with the ECO Tune).

We purchased an extended warranty the best we could get to get us from 100K to 200K klms for about $3500. Head to toe, great warranty.

Now here is the catch, any failure caused by sludge build-up and their garranty is void.

In other words any place or part in the engine or drive train where oil is used, and that part breaks down, you will have to tear down/open up, at a recognized dealer, at your own expense, take pics, and if there is anything in there they that even looks like thick oil, they can say it's sludge build-up, and void your warranty and you will have to pay the complete price...no rental car, no motel etc. We are just sure lucky we are at home and have the ECO Tune to fall back on.

So if you ever see the words of sludge build-up in any warranty tear it up and throw it in their face.

Definition;

"Perhaps one of the most damaging problems a vehicle's engine can encounter is engine sludge. An engine can build up sludge when moisture gets into the oil, and in lower temperatures, solids in the oil can turn into gel. This problem can be exacerbated by higher temperatures, so cooling system problems can also contribute to engine sludge build-up. These deposits can build up and cause several types of problems, including blocking the passage of oil to key components in the engine, causing excessive wear of engine components, and various other damaging effects that can threaten the life of an engine. "

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-engine-sludge.htm
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Unread 10-25-2013, 05:36 PM   #22
ryann04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup View Post
Latest up-date, please post this all over this forum and please buyer beware.

After jumping through hoops; taking pictures of car, tires etc. and sending in all service recods (how can one do that if you are in the middle of no where or use multiple garages) the dealer gets a phone call. INSURALL says that if I give the dealership the go-ahead they can proceed but INSURALL want more pictures of all the parts removed and they want to know what caused the fault light to come. This is because there might be sludge build-up. (So forget this BS I'll go with the ECO Tune).

We purchased an extended warranty the best we could get to get us from 100K to 200K klms for about $3500. Head to toe, great warranty.

Now here is the catch, any failure caused by sludge build-up and their garranty is void.

In other words any place or part in the engine or drive train where oil is used, and that part breaks down, you will have to tear down/open up, at a recognized dealer, at your own expense, take pics, and if there is anything in there they that even looks like thick oil, they can say it's sludge build-up, and void your warranty and you will have to pay the complete price...no rental car, no motel etc. We are just sure lucky we are at home and have the ECO Tune to fall back on.

So if you ever see the words of sludge build-up in any warranty tear it up and throw it in their face.

Definition;

"Perhaps one of the most damaging problems a vehicle's engine can encounter is engine sludge. An engine can build up sludge when moisture gets into the oil, and in lower temperatures, solids in the oil can turn into gel. This problem can be exacerbated by higher temperatures, so cooling system problems can also contribute to engine sludge build-up. These deposits can build up and cause several types of problems, including blocking the passage of oil to key components in the engine, causing excessive wear of engine components, and various other damaging effects that can threaten the life of an engine. "

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-engine-sludge.htm
I've had problems with warranty companies in the past too. They are just like insurance companies. They are in the business to MAKE money from consumers, NOT pay out. They will do anything, and use any loop hole possible to get out of having to pay. Just my $0.02
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Unread 10-25-2013, 06:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup
We purchased an extended warranty the best we could get to get us from 100K to 200K klms for about $3500. Head to toe, great warranty. Now here is the catch, any failure caused by sludge build-up and their garranty is void.
$3500 is outrageous for a 60k mile warranty. I bought the lifetime MAXCARE for less. Best advise I ever got from a dealer was if your gonna buy an extend warranty go through the manufacture.

As long as you have all the service receipts they shouldn't be able to deny the warranty.

Do you know you have a sludge problem? I would let the dealer tear it apart, roll the dice or throw away $3500.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 07:50 PM   #24
revitup
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Well if you look at some of the pics of the intakes that show seized swirel valves in this forum....what are they going to say...carbon/sludge..it's all the same to them. Now your engine parts are all over the shop floor at the dealership, now they have to take pics of all the parts and wait (a couple of days or what) to get confirmation to proceed or not..hey INSURALL says the pics show alot of sludge...."who you going to call, ghost busters" . It's just a racket, and then there is also, you have to prove all the previous work was done by a lisceced mechanic...(at there approved locations?) it could go on-and-on. Just avoid these criminals from Quebec.

I'll go with a straight by-pass for $325 or an ECO Tune. Thank God I have those options. But just think if you were stuck up in Alaska the Yukon?

That brings up a good question. Just how far can you travel in "limp" mode.
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Unread 10-26-2013, 06:29 PM   #25
jaje
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Originally Posted by revitup View Post
Now here is the catch, any failure caused by sludge build-up and their garranty is void.

So if you ever see the words of sludge build-up in any warranty tear it up and throw it in their face.
Toyota ran afoul of this in the late 90s / early 00s when they went the cheapskate method to make their gas engines meet ULEV / SULEV. Essentially they cranked up the engine's normal operating temperatures which created significant hot and cold spots (cold causes condensation and hot creates sludging) whereby the premise was that as the engine ran hotter it would produce lower emissions. It bit them in the butt as standard dino oil was not up to the task as several factors: oil change interval was not reduced (required to be changed more often); no requirement to run only synthetic; and no redesign of cylinder head to allow freer oil passages; increase oil volume in engine with larger oil pan or reservoir.
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Unread 10-26-2013, 10:01 PM   #26
Chirpz
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I drove about 4 weeks in limp mode after my Swirl Motor failed. No harm done.

Dealer quoted me $1200 to fix it, but said it could go as high as $6000 if they broke the linkage.

I decided to replace the motor myself, and I did. Then I discovered the ECO tune and kicked myself for not discovering it sooner. It cost me less than $400 to replace the motor myself...but now that I have the tune... it doesn't do anything...just sits there.

I would NOT let a dealer replace the Swirl Motor even if they do it under warranty. I have read too many horror stories. Unless they are real smart, they follow the book step by step and the book says to PULL the engine. You don't have to do that. If you take your time you can replace the SM without pulling the engine. It isn't easy. But it can be done. Why take your heart out when you don't have too.

As far as warranties are concerned.... its pot luck. I recently had my alternator replaced under extended warranty and they paid the whole thing and they never said a word about my obvious Elephant Hose Mod. They would not cover the Swirl Motor because it was excluded in the fine print. (not by exact name, but because it is just a servo)
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Unread 10-27-2013, 08:52 AM   #27
revitup
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This is not the dealer backed insurance plan, but an after-market plan, the first after-market one we have ever had, I'll know better for next time. We only had 111,xxx klms on it! Talk about ethics, and these are car manufacturers! I suppose they're just the same as the banks, they'd sell their own mother for a buck. They really should all be punished, we should not be supporting them.

Take your money out of the banks and stop buying these cars, but no. Hence, we are also to blaim, we just smile and bend over, time-after-time.

So now is it: time to sell? do the resistor mod? install the ECO Tune? I'm still not sure, every couple of hours I'm leaning in an other direction.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 09:03 AM   #28
BAH101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revitup
This is not the dealer backed insurance plan, but an after-market plan, the first after-market one we have ever had, I'll know better for next time. We only had 111,xxx klms on it! Talk about ethics, and these are car manufacturers! I suppose they're just the same as the banks, they'd sell their own mother for a buck. They really should all be punished, we should not be supporting them. Take your money out of the banks and stop buying these cars, but no. Hence, we are also to blaim, we just smile and bend over, time-after-time. So now is it: time to sell? do the resistor mod? install the ECO Tune? I'm still not sure, every couple of hours I'm leaning in an other direction.
Do the resistor mod and enjoy the WK. Do the tune later, after all this crap you put up with has faded a bit. Then get your tune and enjoy your new peppy Jeep.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 12:43 PM   #29
Drudgery1971
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Do the resistor mod and enjoy the WK. Do the tune later, after all this crap you put up with has faded a bit. Then get your tune and enjoy your new peppy Jeep.
Totally agree with BAH101. Literally costs pennies to get back to fully operational, no ETC lights, and the satisfaction of doing it yourself will make it feel a bit better.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 12:50 PM   #30
revitup
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Yeh, thanks, I now thinks that what I will do. Get that under my belt. Wait a couple of weeks see how we feel and then probably go with the Eco-Tune. Right now, for the money, there is not another vehicle out there that I would prefer....maybe the Land Rover Evoque, buts it's a two door and really not in the same group/class?
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