couple Bilstein 5125 rear shock questions - JeepForum.com
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Unread 07-02-2014, 12:03 AM   #1
bersh
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couple Bilstein 5125 rear shock questions

My Bilstein 5125 arrived today, so I plan to install them, the 4600 in the front, and OME MD coils in the next couple days.

I have a couple questions regarding the rear shocks. I'm aware of the fact that I'll need to run washers in the rear as the shock eyelets are a touch narrower, but one thing that has me concerned is that the inner diameter of the metal sleeve is larger than the stock bolt diameter, and I don't want to have a rattle or clunk. Anyone have any recommendations for a replacement sleeve or different bolts? Kolak sent me a message with some bolt recommendations, but they appear to be similar to the stock bolts in diameter. Will the stock sleeves fit in the Bilstein? Or is all of this a none issue as long as I torque the bolts properly?

My other question, which I imagine will be evident when I remove the stock shocks, is which way do the Bilstein get installed - boot up or down? I'm guessing down but I see pics on here with them both ways so just curious.

Thanks.

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Unread 07-02-2014, 07:57 AM   #2
IndyBlueWK
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Boot up on my 5100's

shocks.jpg
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Unread 07-02-2014, 01:44 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by IndyBlueWK View Post
Boot up on my 5100's

Attachment 1448322
Why?
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Unread 07-02-2014, 02:19 PM   #4
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Why?
Agreed.

Most shocks are designed to be installed a certain way - I doubt those are any different.
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Unread 07-02-2014, 02:23 PM   #5
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Mine were installed by a 4x4 shop with the boot up too.....no problems....

I don't think it really matters?
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Unread 07-02-2014, 02:36 PM   #6
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Mine were installed by a 4x4 shop with the boot up too.....no problems....

I don't think it really matters?
Interesting. I guess it makes sense now that I think about it - monotube shocks it shouldn't matter.
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Unread 07-02-2014, 05:52 PM   #7
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I had to add washer on top and on the bottom. I'f I didn't the mounts wouldve been pinched. Especially the top mounts. I added 4 washers on the top of each mount (2 on each side) It wasn't enough. I was advised on this site that two on each side on the top and one on each side on the bottom would've been enough. I think my mistake was that I used fender washers instead of normal washers. Try using this set up with normal washers instead of fender washers. 4 on top, 2 below.
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Unread 07-02-2014, 05:54 PM   #8
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It's a little tricky to hold all those washers into place while you send the bolt through at the correct height. I'd suggest having a single hand from a friend just to help align all those washers while you work the shock and catch the bolts into the mounts.
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Unread 07-02-2014, 06:48 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
Interesting. I guess it makes sense now that I think about it - monotube shocks it shouldn't matter.
monotube's can be installed in either direction.

One of the advantages of monotubes
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Unread 07-02-2014, 10:25 PM   #10
bersh
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I went with boot up. I tried them the other way and just didn't like the way the boot was so close to the tire, though seeing the silver Bilsteins in the wheel wheels looked nice. I also had a pretty substantial clunk on both sides, and a different one on the driver's side. The different one was the black plastic wheel well liner vibrating and hitting the shock. I trimmed it and got rid of that, but couldn't get rid of the clunk. I figured what the hell and flipped them over and changed the washer configuration a little and I'm pretty sure I solved it. I ended up using an additional thick grade 8 washer on the outside to spread the load a bit, even though I used flange head bolts (not factory bolts). I also cherry picked some new washers from the bin that were thicker than the previous ones I used. Not sure if one or a combination of all the things did it but as long as it stays quiet I'll be happy. I'm driving a jacked up rig for now as I won't have time to do the front until Friday or most likely the weekend. The OME MD springs gave me just shy of 2" of lift in the rear and they drive great, which is what I wanted.
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