Codes, codes, and more codes....... - JeepForum.com

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
Codes, codes, and more codes.......

Whats up guys, so as you guys know, been having MPG issues and what not since the beginning of summer. Not sure what is going on. And have some concerns. When we use the Hypermax Tuner we pull anywhere from 18 to 35 codes, some are stupid but there are some to make you worry. Ill have to do it again and pull them to give you guys the list. Its funny cuz the tuner is pulling codes when there is NO CEL Well me and my wife we did a Compression Test of the truck. I think we did it right, but my buddies bud said we did not. Or our Tester is a POS. But how can that be when its only a stupid air guage reading pressure.??? (am I wrong?)

So what we did was remove all spark plugs, removed all coils, and then I removed the Fuel Pump Relay. Had gotten the right size plug for the Testers hose, and installed in each cylinder one at a time. As I had the gauge in my hand, I had my wife turn the engine 8 cranks while pumping the gas. if I thought 8 cranks wasnt enough I pushed it a little more, till the gauge actually stopped moving.

Here are the Numbers that we came with and they are nothing to be happy about. I was told I should be in the Range of 165-190PSI Well here is what we got front to rear Pass side 145,132,79 front to rear driver side 112, 135,136

So did I do this correctly and my numbers are good and I have a **** Engine?
or was my tester a POS and gave me bad readings? Will do this test again.

Another is I have is 5 quarts of oil go in, when doing oil change, and I will only get 2.5 quarts when I remove the dirty oil including from the oil filter. Also the Tip of my exhaust is BLACK!!!!! so I know Im burning oil. Just not sure where.

Brand New spark Plugs installed 2 weeks ago SeaFoam Done 2 weeks ago
Headers installed month ago.
Brand New PVC filter
Brand New AIr Filter

KillaJeep4569 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
Ohhh Does anyone know what this is or where it goes? I saw this hanging when I was under the hood.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0981.jpg   IMG_0984.jpg  
KillaJeep4569 is offline  
post #3 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
THis is the the Compression Tester that I had purchased and used. Thinking it was good enough. http://www.harborfreight.com/compres...-pc-69885.html
KillaJeep4569 is offline  
post #4 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 10:32 AM
colinzj
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 1,693
Your procedure sounds generally fine. Not sure why your wife's pumping the gas pedal, but it shouldn't really affect anything unless she's holding it to the floor.

Chrysler's (and ASE's) procedure and numbers are based on 3 cranks, and the 3.7 should be between 170-225 psi per the FSM. That compression tester should be fine, and the fact most of your cylinders read pretty close to each other would suggest it's at least precise even if the numbers themselves aren't accurate. So something definitely sounds off with cylinders 1 and 6. In a good engine, you'd expect the highest and lowest results to be within ~15%.

When you re-run the test, try dumping a little (clean!) oil down the cylinders that read low. (By a little, we're talking around 2 ounces. If you're a cocktail drinker, a jigger.) If they get better, most likely the rings are worn. If they don't, it's probably the valves.

2006 WK Laredo 4x4 4.7L
1993 ZJ Laredo 4x4 4.0L Dead, sold, and rolling again
colinzj is offline  
post #5 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
Thanks bud. Will be going to advance to rent there tester and do the test today since I'm off for all my medical tests and it is warm. I also need to tighten down my header bolts. I know some were loosened.

But will try like u said when testing. I'll do 5 cranks just to be sure.

If the rings are bad do u think it is worth fixing or getting a donor and installing a V8?
KillaJeep4569 is offline  
post #6 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 11:14 AM
Hendrix9
Senior Member
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Beacon Falls
Posts: 677
If you decide to replace the motor rather than repair, swapping the 3.7 to either V8 is going to be quite a project. The 3.7 only shares the transmission with the CRD and the 6.1 srt8, so computer wise it will most likely be difficult. Just my 2 cents.

2007 CRD QDII
2010 Jetta Sportwagen TDI 6MT - hoping it gets bought back!
2004 QD 4.7 GC- lawn ornament waiting for some TLC
2009 Rav4 v6
Hendrix9 is online now  
post #7 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 11:48 AM
91 Jeep Project
NAXJA
 
91 Jeep Project's Avatar
2010 WK 
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Broomfield, CO
Posts: 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by KillaJeep4569 View Post
Ohhh Does anyone know what this is or where it goes? I saw this hanging when I was under the hood.
Looks like the vent tube for the front diff.
91 Jeep Project is offline  
post #8 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix9 View Post
If you decide to replace the motor rather than repair, swapping the 3.7 to either V8 is going to be quite a project. The 3.7 only shares the transmission with the CRD and the 6.1 srt8, so computer wise it will most likely be difficult. Just my 2 cents.
I was told different. Because I wanted to go with the 3.0 CRD turbo diesel but people were saying I would have to change everything and it would be stupid to try.

What do you think?

Also how hard is it to replace the valve seals? Is it worth doing them?

My buddy said I may have a cracked block or blown head gasket. But I don't see smoke or smell antifreeze. So I'm stumped
KillaJeep4569 is offline  
post #9 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 01:02 PM
RCS1300
Registered User
2005 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Stamford
Posts: 718
How many miles on the vehicle. If it is a lot I might consider taking a closer look at timing chain wear before replacing an engine or relying on those compression readings.
RCS1300 is offline  
post #10 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
How many miles on the vehicle. If it is a lot I might consider taking a closer look at timing chain wear before replacing an engine or relying on those compression readings.
110k , I bought it with 92k, since the cat codes we had in the beginning of the year. I have not stop having issues. and im tired of getting 11.1 MPG
KillaJeep4569 is offline  
post #11 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 01:31 PM
RCS1300
Registered User
2005 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Stamford
Posts: 718
I agree with trying a new compression tester to make sure you have a good gauge and good seal. All spark plugs need to be removed to do a compression test. Three cranks is fine but more is okay too. When using the new gauge, do one complete round without oil and the second round with oil that way you can compare the two. If you are burning oil it sounds like it may be your valve oil seals are leaking oil which may or may not have damaged a few valves. Could be you may have oil slug preventing a few valves from completely closing. Cannot imagine your piston rings are worn with that little amount of mileage.

If you are pulling heads to do the valve oil seals ($1.82 each), change all the seals and not only the ones on cylinders with lower compression.
RCS1300 is offline  
post #12 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
I agree with trying a new compression tester to make sure you have a good gauge and good seal. All spark plugs need to be removed to do a compression test. Three cranks is fine but more is okay too. When using the new gauge, do one complete round without oil and the second round with oil that way you can compare the two. If you are burning oil it sounds like it may be your valve seals are leaking oil. Cannot imagine your piston rings are worn with that little amount of mileage.
Agreed. Im on my way to get tester. Will be doing it shortly. Sometimes you cant trust that HF stuff. but then again you can hahahaha.

also yah, I couldnt imagine the Rings being worn after 110K and Im sure the person before me didnt and dont beat on it like I do now haha.

How much a pain in changing the seals? Im looking thru the FSM now
KillaJeep4569 is offline  
post #13 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 02:40 PM
RCS1300
Registered User
2005 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Stamford
Posts: 718
Quote:
Originally Posted by KillaJeep4569 View Post
How much a pain in changing the seals? Im looking thru the FSM now
I have not done this yet. Understand you need to pull the heads and have some special tools to compress the valve springs. Probably want to find a machine shop to clean everything up before reinstalling with new gaskets and seals.
RCS1300 is offline  
post #14 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
KillaJeep4569
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Down By Da Beacchh Mann!!
Posts: 1,088
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
I have not done this yet. Understand you need to pull the heads and have some special tools to compress the valve springs. Probably want to find a machine shop to clean everything up before reinstalling with new gaskets and seals.
I hear there is a way with out taking the heads off. using String and putting the cyl to TDC and put rope in there to fill gap then u can remove the springs and what not. I have to research more.

But wanna know wat I would need if I could do the CRD swap, because if I can and it isnt hard or needs alot of parts. I will do it ASAP!
KillaJeep4569 is offline  
post #15 of 30 Old 12-10-2015, 03:58 PM
90grandoneer
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: City of Trees
Posts: 2,742
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
I have not done this yet. Understand you need to pull the heads and have some special tools to compress the valve springs. Probably want to find a machine shop to clean everything up before reinstalling with new gaskets and seals.
On my Hemi, when I installed an aftermarket camshaft, I changed the valve springs and valve seals without removing the heads. I believe the 3.7/4.7's have a single overhead cam on each head, so I am not sure if it can be done on them without removing the cams (probably not) but, if it can, all you need to do is bring each cylinder to top dead center with both valves closed, pressurize the cylinder and have a valve spring removing tool that will remove the springs. I would bet there is a special tool available to do this.

Before you go ripping into the engine, along with the second compression check, I'd do a cylinder leak down test also. If there is a problem with the valve train or rings, it'll tell you exactly where the problem is.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, K&N Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
90grandoneer is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome