See my other thread for the reasons WHY I had to change my radiator: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/w...ruise-1521762/
I just wanted to post an overview of the radiator replacement procedure for anyone who may need to do the job in the future.
Overall this is not a terribly hard job using the scale of easy being oil changes and serpentine belts, hard being power train conversion projects and fabrication of custom components. The air conditioning system does not need to be discharged as long as care is taken when removing the radiator. The complete job should take around 3 hours at a leisurely pace with beer breaks.
Remove lower shields and covers to include the front most cover between the bumper and sub-frame:
Clean the area around the fan motor and hydraulic hoses, especially where the connections are made. Contaminants in the hydraulic system are bad. Crack the power steering fluid reservoir cap to allow makeup air while draining fluid from the system. Disconnect the hoses and allow system to drain while removing other components. Now is also a good time to start draining the cooling system as well. Open the radiator fill cap and drain valve.
Here you can see the hydraulic lines and solenoid power wire for the fan motor:
Clean (after reassembly, note new clamp):
The upper radiator support cross member is removable. Remove the grill. 4 of the plastic pin-lock connectors hold it in. Pull the center plastic pin out, and then pry connector out. Tip the grill forward and up, the bottom is secured by alignment pins, no fasteners. To remove the support you will be required to drill out a rivet retaining the washer fluid reservoir fill neck. Drill this out and remove bolts and gasket.
A photo of the cross member with bolts and gasket removed:
Another photo of cross member removal. Mark the mounting location of all the bolts and at the hood latch for ease of realignment upon reassembly:
Drilling the washer fluid reservoir rivet:
It's been a few months since I did the job, and I don't remember if I removed the entire fan shroud and motor assembly with the hydraulic reservoir attached or if I removed it prior. If I recall correctly I removed the power steering reservoir and associated hoses before removing the fan shroud and motor. The reservoir may be removed by pulling straight up as it slips in a V grove. I believe there is a connection on the bottom of the reservoir which needs to be removed, along with a low pressure hose on the hydraulic system cooler.
A photo of the hydraulic reservoir and mount:
Fan shroud mount on passenger side. Be careful clearing the AC dryer(?) tab when pulling it up:
A photo of the removed hydraulic fan and shroud assembly:
The fan shroud is held in by 4 bolts. You will need to remove the wiring harness and the hose retainers. I found if the components on the front are disconnected from the radiator it allows for more play when negotiating the removal of the fan shroud assembly. It was a tight fit, but with gentle adjustments and care does come out with overall ease.
Here you can see the fan shroud mounting bolts on the drivers side. This is also the location of the electrical connector which needs to be disconnected:
A photo of the low pressure hydraulic system line which needs to be removed as well as some of the mounting bolts for radiator and other coolers. Note the rubber flap on the right which also should be removed, and the thick washers between the intercooler and mount:
The radiator itself is held in with 4 bolts which also hold in the transmission cooler, intercooler, hydraulic system cooler, oil cooler, and condenser. Remove any remaining hoses (should be upper and lower radiator hoses and the hose to the coolant tank). Unbolt ancillary components and radiator. Removal of radiator is where you need to take great care not to disrupt the delicate air conditioning system lines. Once again, using care and careful adjustments removing the radiator is possible.
Lower radiator hose:
A picture of the multiple cooling systems. You can see the mounting bolts here:
Another picture of the components and their mounting bolts:
A picture of the same components with the radiator removed and orientation while removing:
A photo with radiator assembly removed:
Radiator (white putty is emergency patch to make it home):
Installation is the reverse of removal as they say. The only notes I have for reassembly were to use all new conventional hose clamps rather than the factory pinch type, use the correct Mopar fluid for the hydraulic / power steering system, and don't forget to replace the drilled rivet with a new nut and bolt!
Here is the bleed procedure for the power steering system:
NOTE: SERVICE BULLETIN 19-008-05 Rev. A
Revised Power Steering System Bleeding Procedures
NUMBER: 19-008-05 REV. A
DATE: November 2, 2005
POWER STEERING SYSTEM BLEEDING PROCEDURE:
WARNING:The fluid level should be checked with engine off to prevent injury from
CAUTION: **MOPAR® Power Steering Fluid +4 or ATF+4 (MS-9602) is to be used in
the power steering system of CS, DR, DH, D1, HB, JR, KJ, LX, LE, ND, PL,
PT, RG, and RS vehicles. Mopar Hydraulic Power Steering Fluid (MS
10838) is to be used in the power steering system of WK, WH, XH, and XK
vehicles. No other power steering or automatic transmission fluid is to be
used in these systems. Damage may result to the power steering pump
and system if the incorrect fluid is used. Do not overfill the power
CAUTION: If the air is not purged from the power steering system correctly, pump
failure could result.
NOTE: If the power steering reservoir cap does not have a dipstick, there will be a
sight window on the side of the reservoir for checking fluid level.
NOTE: Be sure the vacuum tool used in the following procedure is clean and free of
1. Wipe the filler cap clean with a clean rag and fill the power steering reservoir
proper level. The dipstick should indicate COLD when the fluid is at normal ambient
2. Tightly insert Miller Special Tool, 9688 - P/S Cap Adapter, onto the pump
CAUTION: Failure to properly connect the vacuum pump reservoir may allow power
steering fluid to be sucked into the vacuum pump.
CAUTION: Do not run the engine while vacuum is applied to the power steering
NOTE: When performing Step #3, make sure the minimum vacuum level is
maintained during the entire time period.
3. Using a hand vacuum pump, Miller Special Tool C-4207-A, with the vacuum reservoir
attached, apply 68-85 kPa (20-25 in. Hg) of vacuum to the power steering system for a
minimum of 3 minutes.
4. Slowly release the vacuum, remove the special tools and add fluid to the proper
5. Repeat Step #1 through Step #4 until the fluid level no longer drops.
6. Start the engine and cycle the steering wheel from lock to lock three times.
NOTE: Do not hold the steering wheel on stops.
7. Stop the engine and check for leaks at all connections. Check for any signs of air in
the reservoir and check reservoir level. If air is present repeat the procedure if
Bolt on washer fluid reservoir neck replacing drilled rivet:
'Power steering fluid' type:
Another anomaly you may encounter is this:
That is a radiator which was ordered from rock auto for the CRD application, and yes, that is a filler neck. The radiator is identical in every dimension but that, and it fits in there fine. If you choose to use a radiator with a filler neck just make sure to use a higher pressure cap than the coolant tank. IIRC the cooling tank has a 16 lb cap and I placed an 18 lb on the radiator fill neck. I used G-05 compatible coolant and distilled water to flush and refill the cooling system.