The problem with dealers and swirl motors is that they just don't have the time to do the job carefully...so they wreck the manifold linkage in the process (easy to do) and then it costs lots of extra bucks to replace the manifolds. When I first took mine to the dealer with a swirl problem they took 2.5 hours to figure out what was wrong, then quoted me $1250 fo fix it....but if the linkage broke they said it would be about $3500 more on top of the 1250. I left when I heard that because I had already read about the whole issue on this forum.
I guess dealers have to go by the book. When you take them a bad swirl motor they get out the "how to" manual and read. 1. Remove the Turbo.... then they go over to the page that tells them how to remove the Turbo and it says. 1. Pull the engine..... so they pull the engine, pull the turbo, then fix the swirl motor.... and if they get careless with the linkage...they replace the intake manifolds too. OUCH!!
If you are patient and take your time and don't read the dealer's "how to book", you can replace the swirl motor without pulling the turbo and without pulling the engine. Duh.
Hopefully the swirl is your problem and you will have two options to fix it yourself cheap.
I don't remember the codes for it right now... you can find them on the forum.... but the symptom are: Throttle sensor light come on in the dash display (its the little lightning bolt), car goes into limp mode and has no power, certain codes appear in a code reader. Sometimes, you can smell a faint electrical smell up to a week or so before the swirl motor fails. You may also have a faint burnt oil smell caused by oil dripping on the swirl motor and running off onto the hot engine.
2007 WK 3.0L CRD, Quadradrive II, GDE EcoTune, DPF-Delete
4xGuard Front, Rear, Belly, & Side Rails, Factory Skids
EHM MOD, Garmin Mechanic EcoHD, K&N Filter (Deleted)