[bobholthaus]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that my $3800 in repairs was the swirl motor issue. The car went into "limp mode" and I could only go 35 mph on the highway. That's what got me to the dealer. I'll post all of my issues later when I finish my letter to Chrysler.

And, I towed a 5000 lb trailer 1000 miles to Sturgis and back about a month after I bought the Jeep. No problems with my transmission cooler ever. This thing has towed great for the four+ years I've owned it.

[scootr29]

Hey Bob...I have yet to be get bite by the swirl motor issue...but every letter to Chrysler helps. $3800 is absolutely insane for that specific project...was there more done?

I think the swirl motor is like $250 dollars and a competent mechanic should be able to remove and replace in at least 8 hours...lets give them 10 hours just in case. Add in some additional parts that he may break.

Swirl motor = $250
10 hours x $100 = $1000...and I know some shops the hourly rate is a lot less than $100 per hour.
Misc Parts and Tax = 200

That adds up to roughly $1450...give or take a few dollars.

Where did they get $3800 from?

[gun-driver]

Unfortunately I guess I get to chime in on this.
My wife's '07 GC 3.0 CRD with 42,000 miles had the check engine light come on. A couple day's or so later (while trying to find time to take it to the dealer) on her way to drop the kids at daycare the jeep stalls and the ETC light is flashing won't run keeps stalling.
Have it towed to the local dealer. 10 days later after replacing the PCM and some exhaust sensor and other emission parts they call and tell me it's the swirl motor and it was going to cost around $2,500(part around 250 and around two days labor + gaskets and seals)
Since this was the third or fourth thing they thought it was I opted to have it towed to a dealer that was a Sprinter dealer. Now I just received a call telling me it's the butterflies on both intakes are stuck and both intakes need replaced to the tune of $3,500. Service mgr says it so expensive because it's a Mercedes.
How can this all come about from the Electronic Throttle Control light????
Am I getting hosed?
What's my possible options??

[scootr29]

Originally Posted by gun-driver

Unfortunately I guess I get to chime in on this.
My wife's '07 GC 3.0 CRD with 42,000 miles had the check engine light come on. A couple day's or so later (while trying to find time to take it to the dealer) on her way to drop the kids at daycare the jeep stalls and the ETC light is flashing won't run keeps stalling.
Have it towed to the local dealer. 10 days later after replacing the PCM and some exhaust sensor and other emission parts they call and tell me it's the swirl motor and it was going to cost around $2,500(part around 250 and around two days labor + gaskets and seals)
Since this was the third or fourth thing they thought it was I opted to have it towed to a dealer that was a Sprinter dealer. Now I just received a call telling me it's the butterflies on both intakes are stuck and both intakes need replaced to the tune of $3,500. Service mgr says it so expensive because it's a Mercedes.
How can this all come about from the Electronic Throttle Control light????
Am I getting hosed?
What's my possible options??

I personally would have it towed to my house and fix it myself...Chripz has a great write up on replacing the swirl motor.

I do not know why the hell it would take 2 days...16 hours to fix this issue. Id the $3500 in addition to the $2500? Or is $3500 the total bill?

[gun-driver]

The "new" total bill is 3,500. We have $360 with the first dealers misdiagnosis.
I went to the other dealer today and he showed a intake off a sprinter and explained that the intake butterflies are stuck closed and the actuater can't move them and the intakes need replaced.
The intakes are $700 each the rest is labor and miscellaneous gaskets and seals. I can't believe that the butterflies can't be freed up by cleaning and lube!!! It only has 42,000 on it how bad can they be??
They told me to call Chrysler's customer service and see what they can do. He also didn't understand why it doesn't have the same 5 year 100,000 mile warranty as the motor in the sprinter?? Anyone know why not?

[scootr29]

Do you have the new updated air intake seal? Is the seal on the air intake orange? If so that is the reason why you have issues.

It is a waste of breath to call Chrysler...they are aware of the swirl motor issue but refuse to do anything about it.

Sprinter is Mercedes...they offer better warranties.

[ealex]

I do not think there is any way to confirm that your swirl flaps are actually stuck before doing most of the labor. If you dealer do not know, how to do this job, there is great possibility that they broke flap links while changing swirl motor, so they need to change intakes anyway...

[bobholthaus]

So if the above is correct, and all of these engines were recalled in the other lines, and Chrysler is putting its head in the sand on us, isn't this classic class-action lawsuit material? I know a good class action guy and I will call him.

Also, I did hear that the dealer can break some flaps if not done properly. I'm pretty sure that's what happened to mine, which made the whole ordeal most costly and time consuming.

[gun-driver]

The sprinter tech said that after running the diagnostic test and seeing the codes it was throwing and driving it he knew it was not the swirl motor and stuck a long screw driver in and tried to move the intake butterflies and they would not open. (he was very nice and knowledgeable about the 3.0 I talked to him in person for about an hour about my options.)
I am waiting on a call from Jeeps customer service rep today too see what they will have to say. If they won't help out in a big way I will bring it home and try to free up the intakes myself.

[gribbles]

I may be having the same CPS issues but want some further input before I tackle it. Some background first. Jeep has 95k on it. Just did an oil change (the correct way) last week, but the issues have been happening before the oil change. Driving last night (about 100 miles into the trip) on the highway, coming back from my parents house the jeep stalled - it DID NOT lose power - I could not accelerate. I pulled over, shut it off, started it back up and it was fine. Took off - maybe 15 minutes later it did it again, I pulled over, killed it, then started it up and tried to go but i heard a grinding noise as soon as I put it in drive. Put it back in N, did the same thing about 3 more times. Shut it off, sat for only a couple minutes, started it back up and it was fine, took off. Again, about 10 minutes later it started to lose power, I got off the throttle and slowed down then it was fine. This has happened before but never this bad. Another thing that has happened randomly and did so this morning is it is seemingly growling while accelerating.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

[alrhall]

I bought my 2007 GC CRD used so I didn't know the history. ~ 55K mi. I bought a Crank position sensor ($25) and Cam position sensor on line just in case. 3 days ago the engine started dropping out a few seconds and coming back. CEL Code P0335. Next day it stalled completely a couple times. I got out my flash light and located the sensor. Mounting bolt is External TORX Head Type. I can reach it from above. 3 possible routs to repair.
1 From above with long arms and dexterity. But what if you drop the plug.
2 From below two large plastic stone shields to remove. Straight forward after that.
3 Take off left front wheel and remove fender liner. Maybe?

I'm working long hours and don't have time to deal with it.

This morning on the way home from work I took it to a local European car mechanic. Stalled ~ 15 times on the 8 mile trip.
He went in from below by removing the stone shields.
30 min and $51 later it’s fixed.

Date code on sensor 07 T 2 from the bad batch as per the service bulletin.
I will buy another spare and the Torx socket.

[CDR07]

I have recently purchased a 07 GC CRD with 50K. In reading through the post I found several commits about changing the oil properly. However, in looking through the CRD threads I can not find what the difference is from a oil change on a normal motor. Can someone please give me what is different on the CRD. Thanks.

[alrhall]

Buy a Filter; Jeep dealer $35 Mercedes Dealer $15.50
Buy 10 Qt low ash oil $6.22 to $9.50 / Qt
Get the Correct wrench for the cap
Get a fumoto valve with an elbow.

Take the filler cap and filter cover off.
Drain the oil
Pull the old filter off the center of the cap
Don’t break the plastic spider
Toss the old filter (Properly dispose of)
Replace the Two O rings and push the new filter all the way on.
Install the valve to make it much easier next time
Close the valve
With a clean rag or suction ball clean the old oil out of the filter canister
Pour part of the first quart of oil into the filter canister.
When the canister is full pour the remainder in the oil filler pipe.
Look under the Jeep for leaks.
Wait until the oil rains out of the canister and,
Pour the next quart into the canister and filler
If you take your time it will take about 40 min to pour 40% of the oil through the filter canister.
Stop at 9 quarts
Install the filter Hand tight plus a little with the wrench.
Install the filler cap
Run the engine. The oil light should go out quickly.
Check for leaks again.
This engine doesn’t like to be over filled.
I check the level and verify that is a Quart low and add another half quart.
I save the other pint for later.


Actualy its a Fumoto Valve.

http://www.qwikvalve.com/?utm_source...il-drain-valve

[Chirpz]

That was a pretty good run down on an oil change. I do not have the funami valve but will check it out for future. You can use a standard filter wrench if you remove the engine cover first, but be very careful... Having the correct wrench is better but as yet, I have not been able to find one.

I usually pour two quarts down the filter canister, This procedure was recommended by jeep service mechanics and is important to do.

Most important is use the correct oil. Look it up in your owner's manual and go by the spec number. I buy mine a Napa. It synthetic and expensive. I don't remember the exact number right now but it is ???.229 The .229 is what makes it hard to find. Napa also has the filter for $12+ bucks.

Check out the thread about "swirl motor failure" and take steps to prevent it. It is nasty. I replaced mine and then did the "elephant hose mod" to prevent future failure. To have a dealer replace your swirl motor costs anywhere from 1200 to 4000 depending on how clumsy they are. I replaced mine for about 420 and did the work myself as have others on this forum. If you have this engine, you will have this problem. You can also cure it by purchasing the "GDE Tune". This deletes the swirl from the system (shuts it off), and gives you 40 extra HP and 2-5 extra MPG. There is a thread about it.

Overall, I really like mine. It runs real sweet.

[CDR07]

Thanks for the info guys. I understand all this but the funami valve, what is this and where does it go? Where do you get one?