I appreciate the replies. The reason I tested in the first place is that several years [and a battery] ago I took the WK to Advance Auto and had a load test done. The guy said the battery tested fine EXCEPT it was low on charge. He surmised, after a conversation, that it was most likely from limited driving. I left the charger on overnight and got a volt reading of 12.45 which is 75%. [12.65 is 100% according to my research] There are a million YouTube videos about using a multimeter to check a car battery. Of course the one I just looked at got a reading of 12.29 and they said the battery was good. Anyway, you are correct in that I have never had an issue with this over the years. Just being a little anal I guess.
Your battery voltage will vary with temperature as well, so if you're comparing last summer to this winter, you might consider that. Is there another symptom, besides the numbers on your meter that have you concerned?
What kind of voltmeter are you using that you're that confident in the accuracy (to be concerned over 0.2V)? I use fairly cheap ones, and they don't always agree within half a volt. Also, if the internal 9V battery on your meter is dying, your reading will be off. I would drop a $2 9V into the meter before I considered buying a car battery based on that meter.
I was wondering how accurate these meters claim to be, and I was surprised to find my cheap craftsman meters don't even publish an accuracy on the web (that I could find). I checked the $350 Fluke V87, and it claims an unimpressive +/-0.05%+1 Volts. That means at 12 volts, they're only telling you to expect to be within 1.006V. Now, I don't believe a $350 meter would be off by that much so I'm guessing they sand bag to keep complaints down or to avoid some calibration rules.
I'm no battery expert, but I put my crap meter on the battery when it's been overnight or longer, and I'm happy to see anything like 12.25, although the big AGM I have now seems to sit at 13 plus (again, crap meter means I'm really just comparing how it looks now to how it looks when the rig isn't screwing up). Then, I start the rig and expect it to jump to at least 13.5, maybe 14.5. Even if I turn the headlights on. Then, I shut lights and heater fans off and after a couple minutes of idling, I shut the rig off. Then I expect it to sit above 13 and very slowly drop, if at all while I'm watching.
Another good thing to do is to use a similar test on another vehicle that's working fine, and compare the results.
If you want to test the battery drain, you can use your multimeter to do that, and it should be well under 100mA if I'm recalling correctly, and I would think it would be under 30mA.