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Unread 01-27-2014, 02:50 PM   #16
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirpz
I ordered my turbo actuator from XsBoost. Their phone number is listed incorrectly elsewhere on this forum. The correct number is: 330-830-4075 I got this note from them. "P.S I did notice that our phone number was wrong on the forum its 330-830-4075 not 4077"
I just hope that your vane are not stuck mate
Before installing the new actuator I thing vanes leaver should be moving freely ... If any one can second that it would be good info ?

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Unread 01-27-2014, 06:27 PM   #17
johnniebravo
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I have been digging a little and the Hella actuators are common and people have been repairing their own boxes. From what I have seen on several forums mainly for European cars, the boxes fail at the solder joints by breaking or a dry joint. I am curious if any of you with a bad actuator will open it up and see if its a similar problem.

http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/tur...air-44572.html

This link is one if MANY!
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Unread 01-28-2014, 12:06 AM   #18
Chirpz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jediknight View Post
I just hope that your vane are not stuck mate
Before installing the new actuator I thing vanes leaver should be moving freely ... If any one can second that it would be good info ?
I'm hoping for that too.... I'll check them out carefully.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 12:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnniebravo View Post
I am curious if any of you with a bad actuator will open it up and see if its a similar problem.
I can't take it apart. Have to send it back for a core credit.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 01:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirpz View Post
I can't take it apart. Have to send it back for a core credit.
Good luck Chirpz. I hope this takes care of your problem. And, I hope you provide a detailed instruction guide like you did for the DPF delete pipe. So, if/when my actuator fails, I will be ready. BTW, I couldn't quite see from your video, do you have the turbo resonator delete pipe on there?
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Unread 01-28-2014, 05:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucknav View Post
Good luck Chirpz. I hope this takes care of your problem. And, I hope you provide a detailed instruction guide like you did for the DPF delete pipe. So, if/when my actuator fails, I will be ready. BTW, I couldn't quite see from your video, do you have the turbo resonator delete pipe on there?
Thanks. I think my actuator completely failed today. See my next post.

No I do not have the resonator delete pipe.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 05:20 PM   #22
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I got the turbo under boost indicator again today. When I got home I made a video of my turbo actuator. Notice that it does not move hardly at all. After the motor shuts off, turn up your volume and listen to the high pitched squeal that continues for about 6 to 8 seconds.
I cleared that code before making this video. When you clear the code, you get a short period improved operation before it returns. The P0299 code is accompanied by the flashing lightening bolt on the dash and limp mode.

What are your comments on that?

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=_5XoF5GSKJM
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Unread 01-28-2014, 07:50 PM   #23
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That is compressor stacking, and after oil starvation it is THE fastest way to blow up a turbocharger.

DO NOT DRIVE IT like that.

As a young kid i disconnected my Compressor Bypass Valve on my turbocharged Volvo and for a week drove around with the "pigeon" sound, mind you mine was faster and much louder as i was running 19psi.

A week of driving was all it took to shatter the compressor shaft. Mind you i had a T3/T4 ready to go and was one of the reasons i was abusing the poor little T3.

Yes Diesels can do that if the turbocharger can, and VNT turbochargers CAN, build up boost faster than a low RPM engine can ingest.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 08:14 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_liner740 View Post
That is compressor stacking, and after oil starvation it is THE fastest way to blow up a turbocharger.

DO NOT DRIVE IT like that.
OK.... that make sense. Thanks
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Unread 01-28-2014, 08:16 PM   #25
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I would appreciate it if someone would post a close up video of a GOOD turbo actuator in use. I know what a bad one acts like, but I never paid any attention to it before.

To make this video I just placed my phone over the actuator between the engine lifting bar and the edge of the compartment....easy.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 03:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_liner740 View Post

As a young kid i disconnected my Compressor Bypass Valve on my turbocharged Volvo and for a week drove around with the "pigeon" sound, mind you mine was faster and much louder as i was running 19psi.
thats lower than the jeeps which is at least 22
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Unread 01-29-2014, 06:53 AM   #27
tnadanzig
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That is compressor surge from the VGT vanes not being in the correct position. I would agree that your actuator is bad and needs to be replaced. My F250 has made that sound before I blew up my first turbo.
I can't believe what the shops charge to change out a $1500 turbo. I can go online and buy them all day long for $1500-$1600. A couple of gaskets and about 5-6 hours for your first time and you can get it swapped out.
The EHM has nothing to do with this issue. Both my Jeeps and my F250 have had the EHM for a couple years (F250 over 6 years) and no freezing problems. It has been below zero for the last couple of days and my Jeep has been sitting outside almost all winter and I don't have any problems with the EHM freezing or anything like that. I keep hearing people say it freezes, but I have yet to see any proof. Show me a setup that freezes and it will be pretty obvious why it froze, poor design. With the 1" hose you are not going to generate enough water vapor to freeze that line.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 10:37 AM   #28
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Good point tnadanzig!

The set-ups I witnessed that froze were all on VW TDI's and all in severe cold of -30*C (20 below F.) In one case the hose had dragged through deep snow which may likely have blocked it. My point was to beware if running them in cold climates as it may cause issues. Especially if the hose is low to ground or you blast through snowbanks.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 05:20 PM   #29
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True but without a throttle body that fully cuts off the air path, the 22psi is not as severe as 19psi. On the diesel with the engine still ingesting air the flutter is nowhere near as violent as some of the pressure is dissipated through the engine

In any case, no bueno.

Quote:
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thats lower than the jeeps which is at least 22
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Unread 01-29-2014, 05:32 PM   #30
caddydaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirpz View Post
After the motor shuts off, turn up your volume and listen to the high pitched squeal that continues for about 6 to 8 seconds.
Mine makes that high pitched squeal after it's shut off as well. The turbo actuator was replaced by the previous owner about 2 months ago, so I wouldn't think that means it's bad, right?
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