Bad AC Compressor? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-21-2016, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
Xmind
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Bad AC Compressor?

So never had an issue with the AC in our 2007 GC in the 3 years we've owned it. Last month though, my wife was driving with the AC on, then she heard a noise and right after the cold air turned ambient warm air. It hasn't worked since. I hooked up a gauge and the low side port was way over pressure.

So is there a valve that is bad, or am I looking at having to replace the entire AC compressor?


'07 GC CRD QDII, EHM, GDE ECO, DPF & intake rez delete, Paramount Perf Valve Body, Roof drain mod
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post #2 of 11 Old 06-21-2016, 11:11 PM
JRLT
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Orifice tube is blocked, high pressure can't get to low, low pressure building up.

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post #3 of 11 Old 06-22-2016, 07:59 AM
usc96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRLT View Post
Orifice tube is blocked, high pressure can't get to low, low pressure building up.
Was literally just dealing with this yesterday, gauge put me in the red as well. Are you able to explain how to fix this issue or??
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-22-2016, 10:41 AM
JRLT
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Gotta drain the system, new orifice tube/expansion valve, refill the system.

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post #5 of 11 Old 06-22-2016, 11:16 AM
Nejeep
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If you find the orifice tube is blocked with metal chips, most likely your compressor is on its way out.

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post #6 of 11 Old 06-25-2016, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
Xmind
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Thanks for the info. I ordered a new expansion valve and I'll take a look for any debris....keeping fingers crossed that it is clean though.....slight difference of a $20 expansion valve versus a $400 compressor....

'07 GC CRD QDII, EHM, GDE ECO, DPF & intake rez delete, Paramount Perf Valve Body, Roof drain mod
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-25-2016, 05:26 PM
dellis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmind View Post
Thanks for the info. I ordered a new expansion valve and I'll take a look for any debris....keeping fingers crossed that it is clean though.....slight difference of a $20 expansion valve versus a $400 compressor....
Anytime that you are opening up an AC system, you will also need to purchase and install a drier/accumulator.

Also, just because the low pressure port is high, doesn't mean that the orifice is blocked. You should be looking at both low and high pressures with a gauge set (you may be doing this, but I'm writing this just in case). For example, the low pressure port will be high if the system is not running, and it will equal the high pressure side. If you turn on the system and see ...

1. The low pressure side go way down (say below 20 or 15) and the high pressure side go way up (both more than normal), then this indicates a restriction.
2. No change in either pressure regardless of on or off, then your compressor is not compressing ... you might have a failed clutch or electrical issue.
3. The high pressure side increases to normal, but the low pressure side is higher than expected, then this might indicate a stuck open orifice.
4. The low pressure side is higher than normal (say in the 40 to 50 range), but the high pressure side is lower than normal (say 100 to 150), then this might indicate a compressor weakness.
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post #8 of 11 Old 06-26-2016, 05:49 AM
Turbonut1747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmind View Post
So never had an issue with the AC in our 2007 GC in the 3 years we've owned it. Last month though, my wife was driving with the AC on, then she heard a noise and right after the cold air turned ambient warm air. It hasn't worked since. I hooked up a gauge and the low side port was way over pressure.

So is there a valve that is bad, or am I looking at having to replace the entire AC compressor?
Guess my first question is if the unit isn't working how could you properly check low side pressure? If you checked when the unit is not working, low side will be high. Pressures need to be checked with system operating.
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-14-2016, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
Xmind
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Sorry, late to follow up, but bought a high pressure gauge so measure that as well. So regardless if the AC system is running or not, the low side pressure is equal to the high side and it stays around 120 PSI on each. The needles never move. Release pressure on one side and the other side drops the same amount. So looks like I'm going to order a new compressor after all.

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-15-2016, 08:19 AM
bobbylx
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Does the compressor clutch engage when you have it all running? Could be defective low pressure switch, or if you've done any radiator work lately, you could have knocked the connector off the low pressure switch.
Look under the silver canister on the front left side, attached to the radiator. The plug attaches from the bottom. Might be worth jumpering it and seeing if anything changes.
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-15-2016, 12:36 PM
dellis
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Yep, like Bobbylx wrote, before ripping out the compressor, first check to make sure that power is applied to the clutch ... this might as simple as a fuse issue.

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