Automatic Headlight Leveling System - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 28 Old 12-18-2013, 07:18 PM
michiganmike
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Battle Creek
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Thanks for the comment.

I read on another Forum, a suggestion to disconnect the battery for ten minutes or more. I tried that and it seemed to work, but the next day the lights are still low.....I can drive with the high beams on , no one notices.
I dread taking it to any Dealer with the question " Do you have any experience working on HID lighting systems and automatic headlight leveling?"


2008 WK Grand Cherokee Overland
Stock Stuff...HEMI,Skid Plates, Quadra-Drive II, HID's
replaces my '96 ZJ with 156,000 miles (I'm Keepin' it though)
will tow the new one behind the Motorhome.
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post #17 of 28 Old 03-06-2014, 12:06 AM
SilentDrifter
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So my Jeep is doing the same thing, where the headlights are pointing down. If I go in the front of my driveway, which from all the snow, sits about a foot higher than the road. It can sort itself out, due to the angle of the Jeep.

Assuming it's the module, that sits underneath the passenger headlight, that's causing this issue. Can I just order this part #55079008AG, and it should start working correctly?

Edit: I disconnected the negative cable from the battery, and installed the module, that I linked to above. After putting everything back together, started it up, and everything is working just fine now. Headlights seem to be aiming correctly now. Now I'm not sure if I could have just unhooked the battery, to see if that could have reset it that way. Either way it's working now, so I'm happy.

Last edited by SilentDrifter; 03-16-2014 at 09:51 PM.
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post #18 of 28 Old 04-13-2014, 03:40 PM
brew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfgnt16 View Post
What I did was disable the system altogether. They key is disconnecting the AHLM control unit from the bottom of the passenger's side headlight housing; you'll have to remove the grill and lower the front fascia a bit to get the headlight out. Make sure you disconnect the battery, working with HIDs and any module that interfaces with the CAN bus shouldn't have any power going to them. Once you remove the headlight assembly, flip it over and you'll find a metal cover about 4 inches by 3 inches on the bottom. Remove the screws and the metal cover, then lift the control module out of it's housing, taking note of the rubber sealing grommet that water seals the bottom of the headlight assembly. Disconnect the wiring harness from the module, and throw some heat wrap or electrical tape around it. Put the module back in place making sure the seal is in properly and put everything back together. Align the headlights using the white manual adjustment screw at the top of the housing and you're all set. Now you have a "normal" set of headlights without the auto leveling.

Just so everyone knows, I've been running this way for two weeks and haven't had any codes or any other behavior from having the AHLM disconnected. I realize this isn't a fix, but at least my headlights shine straight ahead and aren't blinding drivers in front of me, or pointing down at the ground five feet away. Come warmer weather I'll probably reconnect the AHLM and have the dealer swap out the system since I'm still under warranty. Considering the snow has come, I'd like to keep the Challenger in the garage for the rest of the season, leaving me with nothing but the Jeep for a DD.

I'm considering following the above procedure on my 2008 GC Overland and was wondering if after manually adjusting the low beams, did you still have properly functioning high beams?

Thanks~Mark

08 GC CRD, GDE
04 Audi A4 Wag 3.0, JHM, Revmax
03 Jetta Wag TDI, RC5, 17/22 turbo
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post #19 of 28 Old 04-13-2014, 06:15 PM
08CanuckCRD
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The headlights on my 08 WL Limited CRD were pointed at the ground too. I found the adjusters for aiming (on mine an allen key on top of each headlight assembly). Found a nice level parking lot with a convenient wall and reaimed the headlights. No problems since. High beams working properly too.

2008 WK Grand Cherokee Limited 3.0L CRD TurboDiesel, QDII, Stock 245/60R18
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post #20 of 28 Old 11-02-2014, 12:10 AM
brew1
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Disabling self leveling headlight motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by 08CanuckCRD View Post
The headlights on my 08 WL Limited CRD were pointed at the ground too. I found the adjusters for aiming (on mine an allen key on top of each headlight assembly). Found a nice level parking lot with a convenient wall and reaimed the headlights. No problems since. High beams working properly too.
Ya tried the manual adjustment with the allen wrench, it worked for a while but then it was back to the low beams pointing too low. I purchased a new passenger headlight assembly due to a turkey strike resulting in a cracked lense. I will be disable the AHLM per the instructions posted above when I install the new assembly and then readjust the units manually.

For me, manually adjusting the headlights with the allen head wrench is preferable to pissing away money every other year for either a new AHLM or new sensors. Will probably also be a good time to upgrade the DS1 HID bulbs to 4800K or 5000K bulbs.

I have a 2004 Audi with the self leveling headlight feature and the same problem. Fortunately, the self leveling motors were on a separate fuse and all I had to do was pull the fuse to disable the system and then manually adjust the headlights. Too bad Jeep didn't have the engineering sense to place the headlight motors on their own fuse.

Wish me luck.

Mark
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post #21 of 28 Old 11-02-2014, 08:37 AM
MildThunder
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I just put new strut/springs on my front end. Never had a headlamp issue until now. The ride height appears to not have changed, but it must be throwing something off. Now my lights are pointing low, and really not stabilizing. Do you think unlplugging the battery would reset the adjustment?
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post #22 of 28 Old 11-02-2014, 11:14 AM
brew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MildThunder View Post
I just put new strut/springs on my front end. Never had a headlamp issue until now. The ride height appears to not have changed, but it must be throwing something off. Now my lights are pointing low, and really not stabilizing. Do you think unlplugging the battery would reset the adjustment?
Go for it and let us know.

I think headlight issues are inevitable for all GC owners with the self leveling headlight system. There are just too many sensors and electronics associated with the system to expect any long term reliability. Its unfortunate the engineers did not build in an easy to utilize manual overide.

Just my $.02.

08 GC CRD, GDE
04 Audi A4 Wag 3.0, JHM, Revmax
03 Jetta Wag TDI, RC5, 17/22 turbo
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post #23 of 28 Old 11-03-2014, 06:26 PM
michiganmike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganmike View Post
I read on another Forum, a suggestion to disconnect the battery for ten minutes or more. I tried that and it seemed to work, but the next day the lights are still low.....I can drive with the high beams on , no one notices.
I dread taking it to any Dealer with the question " Do you have any experience working on HID lighting systems and automatic headlight leveling?"
I got tired of night driving almost blind with the low beams and almost blinding anyone with the high beams. Since Fall/Winter has arrived and more driving in the dark , I gritted my teeth and took it in to my local Dealer, Henkel Chrysler Jeep Dodge. The scanned for codes/ Code B1681 and B1682 for rear headlamp level circuit performance. Replaced rear headlamp level Sensor and calibrated AHLM and Aimed the Lamps.
Sensor HE 08037155, FP Number 55079006-AD $144.00 Labor $178.20
in case anyone needs the information.
Yes, they work GREAT now !

2008 WK Grand Cherokee Overland
Stock Stuff...HEMI,Skid Plates, Quadra-Drive II, HID's
replaces my '96 ZJ with 156,000 miles (I'm Keepin' it though)
will tow the new one behind the Motorhome.
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post #24 of 28 Old 12-14-2015, 05:47 PM
outlanderXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfgnt16 View Post
What I did was disable the system altogether. They key is disconnecting the AHLM control unit from the bottom of the passenger's side headlight housing; you'll have to remove the grill and lower the front fascia a bit to get the headlight out. Make sure you disconnect the battery, working with HIDs and any module that interfaces with the CAN bus shouldn't have any power going to them. Once you remove the headlight assembly, flip it over and you'll find a metal cover about 4 inches by 3 inches on the bottom. Remove the screws and the metal cover, then lift the control module out of it's housing, taking note of the rubber sealing grommet that water seals the bottom of the headlight assembly. Disconnect the wiring harness from the module, and throw some heat wrap or electrical tape around it. Put the module back in place making sure the seal is in properly and put everything back together. Align the headlights using the white manual adjustment screw at the top of the housing and you're all set. Now you have a "normal" set of headlights without the auto leveling.

Just so everyone knows, I've been running this way for two weeks and haven't had any codes or any other behavior from having the AHLM disconnected. I realize this isn't a fix, but at least my headlights shine straight ahead and aren't blinding drivers in front of me, or pointing down at the ground five feet away. Come warmer weather I'll probably reconnect the AHLM and have the dealer swap out the system since I'm still under warranty. Considering the snow has come, I'd like to keep the Challenger in the garage for the rest of the season, leaving me with nothing but the Jeep for a DD.
Just wanted to give this post a big 'ole +1.

I have always hated the autoleveling, and after having it behave erratically for the last 6 months, I had enough.

Just completed this. Took me about 30 minutes (including removing the grill, but NOT the bumper, just pull the fascia back a bit, it's all you need to do for that bottom engine side bolt.)






2008 WK CRD Limited S.
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post #25 of 28 Old 02-18-2016, 09:21 AM
241comp
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I realize I'm resurrecting an old thread but I wanted to share some info for anyone who might be looking to disable their auto-leveling headlights in the future.

I was able to remove the bumper fascia without breaking the 3 clips in the wheel well. I did so by opening the access panel in the wheel well liner and squeezing the clips, then pushing the fascia back away from the fender flares. I did this after removing all the other bolts and clips from the fascia.

However, I believe that removal of the bumper fascia is actually unnecessary. After removing the headlight, I realized that the access panel is actually on the inboard side of the headlamp assembly, not on the bottom. The AHLM module can be removed without pulling the headlamp assembly. After removing the grill (pull the plastic clips on top and lift straight up, gently), a torx bit and appropriate size wrench can be used to remove the metal cover. Remove the module, disconnect the plug, protect the plug with electrical tape, replace the module and you're done.

Using this method you should be able to disable the auto-leveling feature in <10m without risk of breaking anything. The part number on the assembly is 55079008AG and can be read through an opening in the metal retainer panel to confirm you are pulling the proper module.

Many thanks to tfgnt16 for discovering how to disable this without throwing codes or causing issues with the HID lights themselves.

'09 XK Ltd - 5.7L, QDII, OME HD
(retired) '99 WJ Ltd - 4.7L, QT, Upcountry
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post #26 of 28 Old 02-18-2016, 11:11 AM
unkle
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Well, I will say the auto leveling works really well .

Why disable or screw around with a decent system - unless you are too cheap to fix a sensor or two ?

Both my SRT8 and Ltd CRD trucks have this system, both work flawlessly.

Both are 2008's , so you may have different results if you have other years.
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post #27 of 28 Old 02-18-2016, 12:41 PM
241comp
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The reason I disabled them is I'm running upgraded upper control arms which don't have the "slot" required to properly mount the front sensor. Not sure calling people cheap is called for, but to each their own I guess.

'09 XK Ltd - 5.7L, QDII, OME HD
(retired) '99 WJ Ltd - 4.7L, QT, Upcountry
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post #28 of 28 Old 02-18-2016, 05:43 PM
unkle
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Well then why didn't you give the reason ? Now others can learn too !
99 percent of this topic is / was driven by people refusing to properly diagnose the headlight issues and just zip tying them in one position.

Sorry but you kinda did fit that mould until the explanation .

That being said, what type of ''upgraded'' A arms are you talking about ?
You would think if they were meant for the Grand Cherokee, they would have been prepped for any/all needed sensors.
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