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6th Annual, Beat Your Wife to the Credit Card Sale!50 in light bar /A pillar mount less than 500 at JeepHut.cFS: Wrangler RGB Multicolor Fog Light LEDs: Awesome Effect

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Unread 10-24-2013, 07:25 AM   #46
Anon155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hxdrummerxc View Post
Hey man, great looking rig!

Two questions,

1. How easy was it to take apart the aftermarket headlights? I attempted my 08 stock ones and almost ruined them.

2. Roughly how much did it cost you total to do the lights? If you don't mind me asking.
Thanks man!

1. The aftermarkets have a lot cheaper butyl glue in them. So they will heat up and come apart easier. But it still took me a couple tries to finally break them open. Definitely wear gloves when you do it. The best tool to get them open is a wide blade putty knife. I used the 2-3 inch ones. You can find them at any hardware store, you will need 2 of them prob. 1 to pry it open and the other to break it open the rest of the way. Start on the flat sides.

2. I kinda lost track of the cost with this project lol. But I'll try to give you a rough idea. Headlights- $100, HID Kit with projectors- $280, Paint- $50, Tape and other supplies- $30-50. Total: $400-450.

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Unread 12-05-2013, 08:07 PM   #47
Anon155
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Haven't updated this thread in awhile....

Been busy with work and a few other side projects that have had my extra money tied up.
It's not a jeep, but it sure was fun to build up! Specs: 48V, 6" A-Arm lift w/ HD leaf springs in the rear, 14" wheels and 23" tires, plus a lot more...
It'll go 24-25 with the speed tuner I installed!

img_2398_zpsd4403cef.jpg

Here's a couple updates for the jeep:
Installed a Fumoto oil drain plug:

img_2421_zps439b4d43.jpg

Bought a Harbor Freight 150 PSI compressor:
My other one finally crapped out after 4 years.
It'll work good until I can find a more permanent mount compressor.

img_2413_zps937a8f94.jpg

I got into the Christmas spirit this year!
Added some lighted garland on the Rola powered by a 12V inverter.
My LED light bar star might be a little too bright though.....

photo31_zpsf89d84ee.jpg

photo21_zps753ed944.jpg
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Unread 12-28-2013, 02:08 PM   #48
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I have been meaning to show how I did my roof lights for awhile now. I guess this is a good time as ever!!

I first needed a switch panel! I wanted something semi custom. I knew Saquaro (Aspen Creek) had been making a 5 panel for the cubby hole, but I figured I could make one cheaper. I grabbed some scrap plexi I had laying around and got to work!

First I removed the cubby panel, and traced a template for the hole. I then used this to cut out a piece of plexi to fit:



I then had to figure out how I was gonna mount it. I decided to use a couple of scrap pieces as back plates. (I don't have any pictures of them) But I used 2 bolts on each side to essentially wedge the front plate and back plates together. This is very similar to what saguaro does with their design.

Once I had a way to mount it, I figured out the placement/spacing of the switches so they would interfere with the back plates. I decided to only go with 4 switches at the time. I really didn't see the need for 5. I cut the switch holes out with a router drywall/plastic cutting bit.



In this pic you can see one of the back pieces if you look at the 4th switch hole:



Next, I mounted the switches on the switch panel, and wired them according to Nate (Omelet's) guide in his build thread.



Then tested to see if the lights on the switches were working properly

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Unread 12-28-2013, 03:04 PM   #49
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Now onto the LYTESSS!!!!

I bought a 32" tough light for my Rola Rack during a group buy. For the money, I couldn't pass it up, and they made it custom to my needs. I did a combo light bar with floods on the outside and spots in the middle. 12,500 lumens of AWESOME! The quality has been great, and it has stood up to everything I've put it through. You can go to their website Tough-Light.com and you will see my rig in their product photos!



I mounted it using 1.5" PIAA light mounts I bought off clearance from 4wheelparts.com for $20 bucks per pair. They were originally silver in color and I bed lined them black to match the Rola. You can get the same mounts but in black off eBay for $20 + shipping.

I measured out where I wanted my light bar on the front and installed the mounts. I used red locktite on the bolts to make them harder to steal.





Next came the back up lights! I bought some display model rigid dually's with diffused licenses from a friend's 4x4 shop.
He gave me a deal I just couldn't pass up!!



I decided to test them out in the garage before installing



Once I knew they were working, I mounted them up on the Rola with the same PIAA mounts I used for the light bar.



Finding where I wanted to run the wiring was a bit tricky. I knew I wanted to keep it as hidden as possible, but didn't know how. I looked through some other people's build threads. But didn't come up with any good results at the time. So I started looking around and found that you can run the wiring down the top weather strip for the doors. It runs all the way from the tops of the doors down to the front of the doors near the engine compartment. You simply pull it off and hide the wires behind it in the channels available. I ran 2 sets of wires down the driver's side this way.

I started at the back and worked towards the front. I neatly ran the wiring harness for the rigid's and zip tied it to the Rola.



After that was done, I ran it down the side of the Rola and the roof rail to the weather stripping above the doors. I sealed all my wiring and connections with tape and split loom tubing to keep it sealed and hidden.



On the front light bar, I zip tied my wiring to the Rola and ran it over to the driver's side through the front hole in the roof rail above the drivers door. This spot kept it hidden, and I was able to zip tie it out of the way far enough not to be seen. You literally have to be looking for my wiring, or you will not see it!!



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Unread 12-28-2013, 03:28 PM   #50
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Once I had the wiring ran up top, I ran it down towards the engine compartment. I covered it with some heat shrink tubing, and snaked it around the door and hood hinges to the engine bay. (Its easiest to push it under the windshield wiper cowl, that way it doesn't affect the hood hinge). I have high-lighted the wiring with a yellow circle. It was kind of hard to see in the pic without it.



Here's where the wiring came out in the corner of the engine bay:



I ran the wiring down towards the front by the battery tray where I have all my relays, and other wiring harnesses for my HID's, and stereo. This seemed like the perfect spot for grounding and sorting out which wires needed to go to the battery and which needed to go inside the jeep. It also made for a cleaner look overall since I did not have enough room for a all in one fuse box like some have done. I may decide to add one later on when I add MOAR LYTESS!!!



I ran the wiring in through the firewall using a grommet that wasn't being used.
This seems to be the popular spot and allows for easy wiring up under the dash area.



Once I had the wires ran into the dash area, I connected them up to my individual switches. And that was pretty much it!
I will get some light output shots up eventually. But as you probably already know, they're REALLY bright.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 10:40 AM   #51
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You did the mini gatling guns?
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The WK mods: SC flashpaq 3870, flow master super 40, 3.5" X Factor leveling kit, 33" M/T baja claws, 17" pro comp wheels, one 12 inch subwoofer, rugged ridge tailight gaurds, rola rack with 18" extension
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Unread 12-29-2013, 11:04 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by 94jeepman View Post
You did the mini gatling guns?
Correct, they were the only ones I easily could fit without a ton of modification. The gatling gun and gatling 2.0 would have needed a lot of trimming to work with our smaller housings. The mini's also used screws to mount to the projector, where the other's use a snap ring that didn't fit right for me.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 11:10 AM   #53
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OK thanks I'm wanting to do both highs and lows
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Unread 12-29-2013, 11:32 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by 94jeepman View Post
OK thanks I'm wanting to do both highs and lows
Only one guy I know running both, Rob "robpp". He's done retrofit work for other people as well. He would probably be your best insight on options and idea's. If it were me though, I'd probably run the morimoto mini H1 projectors with mini gatling gun shrouds for lows and for ease of the install, then use a bigger frame projector for the highs with the gatling gun 2.0 shrouds to match. The H1's do have a high beam feature, so you could easily tie them into your high beam wiring to give double the light output when you flip the switch.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:00 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anon155 View Post
Only one guy I know running both, Rob "robpp". He's done retrofit work for other people as well. He would probably be your best insight on options and idea's. If it were me though, I'd probably run the morimoto mini H1 projectors with mini gatling gun shrouds for lows and for ease of the install, then use a bigger frame projector and the gatling gun 2.0 shrouds to match. The H1's do have a high beam feature, so you could easily tie them into your high beam wiring to give double the light output when you flip the switch.
I was thinking using the small one for low beams that or cut that piece between the blinker and low beam and use the rigid lights that omelet is using as his blinkers
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The WK mods: SC flashpaq 3870, flow master super 40, 3.5" X Factor leveling kit, 33" M/T baja claws, 17" pro comp wheels, one 12 inch subwoofer, rugged ridge tailight gaurds, rola rack with 18" extension
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:08 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94jeepman View Post
I was thinking using the small one for low beams that or cut that piece between the blinker and low beam and use the rigid lights that omelet is using as his blinkers
Yeah, I really liked Nate's idea with the srm's. They'd make great trail lights.

Only problem I see with cutting that middle piece would be that you could get some light reflection from the backside of the projector down into your blinker area which wouldn't look so good. It may not be noticeable though by painting the back of the housing black like I did or color match the entire housing to dim the reflecting light some.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:16 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anon155 View Post
Yeah, I really liked Nate's idea with the srm's. They'd make great trail lights.

Only problem I see with cutting that middle piece would be that you could get some light reflection from the backside of the projector down into your blinker area which wouldn't look so good. It may not be noticeable though by painting the back of the housing black like I did or color match the entire housing to dim the reflecting light some.
Ya that's my plan to paint it all black. Hopefully do the srm's and projectors with the Oracle halos
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The WK mods: SC flashpaq 3870, flow master super 40, 3.5" X Factor leveling kit, 33" M/T baja claws, 17" pro comp wheels, one 12 inch subwoofer, rugged ridge tailight gaurds, rola rack with 18" extension
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:32 PM   #58
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So the Fumoto oil drain plug.........

My factory steel front skid has plate that my bro welded in to cover the access holes. It's a solid skid in other words - no openings. Does that drain plug hang low and protrude through the opening of the skid?
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:43 PM   #59
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So the Fumoto oil drain plug.........

My factory steel front skid has plate that my bro welded in to cover the access holes. It's a solid skid in other words - no openings. Does that drain plug hang low and protrude through the opening of the skid?
Nahhh. The plug sits at least 1-2 inches above the skid on my 5.7L. Doesn't come close to the hole at all. Even with no openings on your skid, there should be a big enough gap on the back side of the skid to slide your hand up there to run a hose down to a drain pan. Worst case scenario is that you would have to loosen/remove the back bolts on the skid to get the hose up there.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:49 PM   #60
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Nahhh. The plug sits at least 1-2 inches above the skid on my 5.7L. Doesn't come close to the hole at all. Even with no openings on your skid, there should be a big enough gap on the back side of the skid to slide your hand up there to run a hose down to a drain pan. Worst case scenario is that you would have to loosen/remove the back bolts on the skid to get the hose up there.
Interesting..........I have seen these before and thought of picking one up but always wondered about its fitment. Probably makes oil changes a bit easier and cleaner.
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My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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