Advice on buying low mileage WK - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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Advice on buying low mileage WK

Looking at purchasing a 2006 Jeep WK Limited with the 5.7L from a local dealer. It only has ~50k miles on it. Anything in particular I should look out for on a lower mileage WK?

The only thing they've said was wrong with it was broken motor mounts which they fixed. Is this something to be concerned about? Otherwise the Jeep looks basically brand new. Thanks for any advice.

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post #2 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 06:51 PM
CavallinoRed
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Mine was a similar purchase.

Check to make sure the pinon nose bushing of the transfer case is solid. If there is any clunk going from reverse to drive is a sign there is a problem. Dealer is going to want $600 to do. Indy like $400. Known weak point.

Make sure 4Low works as if you get a "Service 4x4 System" error when you try means you have a N23 recall problem. If the P73 reflash as also been done might take a new transfer case actuator ($800 dealer but $250 part). Also is a P41 recall having to do with the ignition switch. Replacement switch is pretty cheap and can be hard to turn until broken in.

You can check for any recalls using the VIN here: http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/Recall.html.

Also due to time quite a few services are coming up which can be a bit pricey. Transfer case fluids, plugs, belts etc. If service is not up to date can be $1K-$2K to do. So if no service records could be a point of negotiation.

If N23 has not been done...read up on it before you do.

Best of luck! Not that many low mileage older WKs around. If price is right is a no brainier.

Might also consider having a Jeep dealer to a PPI. Cost around $250 but well worth it IMO.
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 06:57 PM
CavallinoRed
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Forgot to add to check this sticky if you haven't already http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/b...-read-1458434/
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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Thanks for the tips. I'd be doing all the maintenance stuff myself. I listened to the transmission shifting and didn't hear any clunking. I checked all the usual stuff and can't find anything wrong with it. Was just worried about anything particular to these Jeeps that might cause issues from sitting around a long time or only being driven on short trips for a number of years. I'll double check for the 4Low issue. They're asking ~13k so it seems like a solid deal.
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 08:19 PM
SilverLimited
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Check the 3 front axle isolation bushings, they tend to grenade around 75,000 miles. Have the dealer run a maintenance printout to see what dealership (Jeep) services and recall/tsb activity was done.

15 WK2 Overland 3.6L QTII
05 WK Limited 5.7L QDII
01 WJ Limited 4.7L QuadraDrive
00 WJ Laredo-gone
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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The VIN search with Jeep is showing N23, P73, and P41 all as incomplete.
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 09:09 PM
SilverLimited
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The P41 (safety recall) is a no brainer, they replace the ignition switch with a new one. It will be a little tight for a month or two, after that you'll never notice it.

The other two (N23 & P73 - the first a software flash fix, the second a fix to the first fix that may cause transfer case problems) as previously mentioned require you to search the forum and read up on them. I had both done on the 2005 with zero impact, others have reported problems after they were done. Those two are a tough call.

15 WK2 Overland 3.6L QTII
05 WK Limited 5.7L QDII
01 WJ Limited 4.7L QuadraDrive
00 WJ Laredo-gone
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post #8 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 10:25 AM
CavallinoRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverLimited View Post
The P41 (safety recall) is a no brainer, they replace the ignition switch with a new one. It will be a little tight for a month or two, after that you'll never notice it.

The other two (N23 & P73 - the first a software flash fix, the second a fix to the first fix that may cause transfer case problems) as previously mentioned require you to search the forum and read up on them. I had both done on the 2005 with zero impact, others have reported problems after they were done. Those two are a tough call.
I doubt if given the choice I'd have the N23 recall done. And you're going to have a hard time having the ignition switch replaced under P41 without having all recalls applied.

Reason for the N23 recall was due to cracks in the circuit tracings on the transfer case actuator, the transfer case (not transmission) can unexpectedly shift into neutral when starting. Problem if you have and use remote start for sure. Hopefully you can find a dealer that knows that if the N23/P73 programming results in a C140F error that can't be cleared that the actuator should be replaced under recall. Takes opening a STAR case and dealer's backing as first line you'll get is the two are not related.

But $13K at a dealer (assuming not a Jeep dealer as recalls would have been done) seems fair if the condition matches the mileage. But if you're not going to get a PPI if you haven't at least have it hooked to a good code reader to see if any errors are in memory. You can use the "key dance" to read some of them. Not all errors come up this way.

Pics if you get it!
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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It's from a local independent dealer - not a Jeep dealership. Researching the recall on here quite a bit and I think I would opt to not have either one performed. I ran the VIN on the Jeep website and it appears the recalls are incomplete. I tested the 4Low and it engaged fine without any error codes. I went and test drove it yesterday evening and a CEL actually came on while I was out driving so I took it by Autozone to have it scanned. It came back as P0449 (evaporative emission control system vent valve or solenoid). The dealer said he would definitely fix the issue before selling it to me.

Otherwise the Jeep looks and functions like a brand new vehicle.
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post #10 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 02:15 PM
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Definitely check those differential bushings. Like everyone else said before you will hear/feel it going from Park to Reverse or Park to Drive sometimes, also throw it in manu-matic and tow/haul and gun it. It will clunk when you let off the gas if they are bad as well. That was how I new mine were really bad. Driving in full auto with tow/haul off I didn't feel or hear the bad bushings at all.

I bought mine with 75k miles on it and like an idiot I didn't check before purchasing. I did get another 25k miles before they were really bad and it was a $1140 ($960 to my mechanic and $180 in parts). The stealership will charge more.

With that being said I BELIEVE the 05-07 WKs had some quirky electrical issues, which got ironed out in the 08-10's.

2010 5.7 - 4" BWoody, BT Catch Can, Flowmaster 50, SC 3872, F&R SRT8 Sways, WK Eibach & Bilstein's.
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post #11 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 11:53 PM
underscore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangarng View Post
Definitely check those differential bushings. Like everyone else said before you will hear/feel it going from Park to Reverse or Park to Drive sometimes, also throw it in manu-matic and tow/haul and gun it. It will clunk when you let off the gas if they are bad as well. That was how I new mine were really bad. Driving in full auto with tow/haul off I didn't feel or hear the bad bushings at all.
If you have a friend you reallllly trust you can slide under there and watch the diff jump around when moving from reverse to drive and back. Just make sure they're hard on the brakes as you're doing it. Or maybe use a GoPro to watch it if you have one.

2007 WK CRD QDII
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-20-2017, 05:16 AM
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At 10 years and 50,000 miles, you will be coming up on some significant repair expenses simply due to age and use. At about 10 years and 70,000 miles I needed to do struts, shocks, front wheel bearings, oil pan, water pump, fuel pump, rear brake calipers (sticking), struts for tailgate/hood/rear window, and TPMS sensors in all 5 wheels.
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post #13 of 16 Old 03-20-2017, 08:49 AM
Mp5ben
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Also check the little things, Like the illuminated switches on the dash. I bought mine and found a few lights on the HVAC controls were out.

Make sure heated seats work, all vent controls work as they should, check under passenger floor mats for reddish coloring (heater core leak), check for the spare tire, oem jack etc

05 WK Limited, HEMI 5.7, QD II, OME HD, 255/75/17 Mud terrains
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post #14 of 16 Old 03-20-2017, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
At 10 years and 50,000 miles, you will be coming up on some significant repair expenses simply due to age and use. At about 10 years and 70,000 miles I needed to do struts, shocks, front wheel bearings, oil pan, water pump, fuel pump, rear brake calipers (sticking), struts for tailgate/hood/rear window, and TPMS sensors in all 5 wheels.
Wow, that sounds worse than buying a high mileage Jeep lol. The WJ I bought in the past with 140k miles still had the stock parts for all of those things.
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-21-2017, 08:53 AM
RCS1300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brill View Post
Wow, that sounds worse than buying a high mileage Jeep lol. The WJ I bought in the past with 140k miles still had the stock parts for all of those things.
My WJ also had fewer of these types of expenses. I am the original owner of both the WJ and WK.
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