3.7L V6 with QT2, NV245 Transfer Case Modules - Page 6

cmdrjim · 05-28-2011, 05:18 AM

For most of us with the 2" lift, going from stock tires with a diameter of about 29.50" up to 32" diameter is about max. A 4" lift 33"?

So those of us with the 3.7L V6 with the Nag1 transmission and 3.07 gears, we can use our front and rear differentials and go to either of the factory options 3.55 or 3.73. And those with the 3.55 gears can go to 3.73. It's the V8's that don't have any options. I'm also convinced I can make a front manually lockable ELSD, out of a QDII, I have swapped out the 3.73 gear to 3.55. I have all the electrical controls ready to test once I can get everything in the Jeep. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/o...enoid-1179902/

Also remember the Nag1 transmission has a much lower 1st gear than the V8 transmissions 3.59:1 vs 3.00:1. I think 3.55 and 3.73 will work for the tire options we have.

Time to get back out working on the Jeep this morning.

criket · 05-28-2011, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmdrjim

For most of us with the 2" lift, going from stock tires with a diameter of about 29.50" up to 32" diameter is about max. A 4" lift 33"?

So those of us with the 3.7L V6 with the Nag1 transmission and 3.07 gears, we can use our front and rear differentials and go to either of the factory options 3.55 or 3.73. And those with the 3.55 gears can go to 3.73. It's the V8's that don't have any options. I'm also convinced I can make a front manually lockable ELSD, out of a QDII, I have swapped out the 3.73 gear to 3.55. I have all the electrical controls ready to test once I can get everything in the Jeep. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/o...enoid-1179902/

Also remember the Nag1 transmission has a much lower 1st gear than the V8 transmissions 3.59:1 vs 3.00:1. I think 3.55 and 3.73 will work for the tire options we have.

Time to get back out working on the Jeep this morning.

Good luck man. Great job on posting every thing you are doing, I read every single one of them, mulitple times actually. Thats the reason I post my stuff is because no one around here really knows much about these, so I'm learning.

I'm buying my 3.73 gears tomorrow from a guy on here so I'm hoping that everything works for you and I can follow suit. If not, I'll try something different and let you know how it goes for me.

Currently my plans are, install 3.73's and have the computer stuff flashed/fixed and continue to use the QT1 mated with the 3.73's for a while until more money becomes available.

cmdrjim · 05-28-2011, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by criket

I'm buying my 3.73 gears tomorrow from a guy on here so I'm hoping that everything works for you and I can follow suit. If not, I'll try something different and let you know how it goes for me.

I think I know who.

Quote:

Originally Posted by criket

Currently my plans are, install 3.73's and have the computer stuff flashed/fixed and continue to use the QT1 mated with the 3.73's for a while until more money becomes available.

The Hypertech Speedometer Calibrator should do this, you would be the first to try it.

cmdrjim · 05-30-2011, 06:33 AM

Saturday went well. The underbody wiring, ARB airline run to the back, fuel tank skid plate on, and Rocky Road Supersliders on.
Put the Jeep in jacks for easier working, used my motorcycle lift to lower and raise the fuel tank (the prefect jack for this). Hardest part, threading the wiring harness between the fenderwell and the steering column, and getting it anchored to the frame in that area. The wiring harness have every anchor positioned perfectly, nice. To mount the Supersliders you really need two jacks, a right hand drillmotor and some cut off stubby drills, it's tight between the pinchweld & frame rail.

cmdrjim · 05-30-2011, 06:33 AM

Saturday went well. The underbody wiring, ARB airline run to the back, fuel tank skid plate on, and Rocky Road Supersliders on.
Put the Jeep on jack stands for easier working, used my motorcycle lift to lower and raise the fuel tank (the prefect jack for this). Hardest part, threading the wiring harness between the fenderwell and the steering column, and getting it anchored to the frame in that area. The wiring harness has every anchor positioned perfectly, nice. To mount the Supersliders you really need two jacks, a right angle drillmotor and some cut off stubby drills, it's tight between the pinchweld & frame rail.

criket · 05-30-2011, 02:52 PM

Awesome work. Sounds like a full day, lol.

cmdrjim · 05-30-2011, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by criket

Awesome work. Sounds like a full day, lol.

Did you get your gears?

criket · 05-30-2011, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmdrjim

Did you get your gears?

Yes i did. I hope my plan works.

cmdrjim · 06-16-2011, 10:33 AM

Lots of brick walls in my path. Dealers that say they can and back out. Jeep is no help or is it Fiat now....., tried to contact Blown7 by email and phone the last couple weeks, no luck.

Worse case, I will end up having to stay with my 3.07 gears, but I'll have a front manually controlled ELSD Locker and a rear ARB locker. I will have a NV245 transfercase with a controller I developed to shift it. So far testing on the bench, it looks like I can get High, High Loc, Neutral, Low and Low Loc.

Necessity is the mother of all invention. Sometimes it pays to be an engineer, if I need to go this route I will have a controller I could possibly sell. You buy the used 3.7L NV245 tcase and driveshafts and I provide the controller for you to manually shift your NV245.

I'll keep you all posted.

Mr. Boh · 06-16-2011, 10:44 AM

Can you give us a hint what the controller would look like? I guessing based on your description, the stock chrome T handle for the Xfer case will not be utilized?

bumzo1 · 06-16-2011, 10:46 AM

I would definitely be interested in this

cmdrjim · 06-16-2011, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Boh

Can you give us a hint what the controller would look like? I guessing based on your description, the stock chrome T handle for the Xfer case will not be utilized?

I have the stock t-handle installed so I will probably use it. But for others I would program the controller to use a multi-position switch.

Mr. Boh · 06-16-2011, 11:42 AM

Actually, I would be interested in using the stock T lever to keep the OEM look. So for QTII, all the T lever does is engage low correct (basically a two position off/on switch). So in your proposed set-up, how would it work the low/low front lock? I'm not that familiar with the stock lever so I could be missing something.

cmdrjim · 06-16-2011, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Boh

Actually, I would be interested in using the stock T lever to keep the OEM look. So for QTII, all the T lever does is engage low correct (basically a two position off/on switch). So in your proposed set-up, how would it work the low/low front lock? I'm not that familiar with the stock lever so I could be missing something.

You could add the T-lever to your current shifter.

It may be better to have a separate switch for others to use, less cost and less confusion. My logic on this. Have a power switch to turn the controller on only when you use it. When you are in High, driving down the highway, you would have it off. The controller would allow shifts only when the transmission is in neutral (or park), or at lower speeds possibly? Maybe it doesn't let you shift across the tcase neutral, unless the transmission is in neutral or park. I need to work on that.

For using the stock t-shifter, something like this, which may change as I design it:

When you turn power on and it's ready to use, I would slow flash the neutral and 4wd Low indicators to signal ready (maybe two or three pulses.)
If there was an error, they would flash faster and stay flashing.
Pushing in the Neutral Indicator, would give you neutral, and it would light up solid. (any t-lever input would take it out of neutral)
To get High Lock, you would pull up on the t-lever two times in "x" amount of time, 4wd Low would flash long two times and then flash slowly there after.(maybe two flashes and a longer pause between the next two flash)
To get High, you would put up on the t-lever once, 4wd Low would flash once long and stay off.
To get Low, you would pull up on the t-lever three times in "x" amount of time, 4wd Low would flash long three times and then flash slowly there after. (maybe three flashes and a longer pause between the next three flash)
To get Low Lock, you would pull up on the t-lever four times in "x" amount of time, 4wd Low would remain on.

I could use a simple rotary multiposition switch for most others.

When you power off the controller, it stays in the position it was left in and returns to the same position when turned back on.
Anyway, that's my thoughts to this point, once I resolve the gear ratio issue, I'm on this.

Mr. Boh · 06-16-2011, 01:15 PM

Very interesting, well keep up the good fight and keep us posted. I know I would be eager in the controller once you got something figured out. So for switches, something like these?
http://www.eurotruck-importers.com/i...roducts_id=667
http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/VW-TO...615202906.html

The first gang of Merc switches might look nice in the left cubby next to the steering wheel (if you don't have a CB there).