3.0L CRD Oil Change Procedure/Any Tips - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 42 Old 11-10-2012, 07:31 AM
bugsybdb
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So would the mobil 1 TDT be fine for my 07 grand cherokee crd as well even though it has a DPF?

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post #32 of 42 Old 11-10-2012, 07:52 AM
fishinbama
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No, it wouldn't because it would have too much ash and could eventually stop up your dpf. Also, you might want to post this same question on bobistheoilguy. They could give you a more definitive answer.

2007 limited crd 2wd, 3.07 ratio, GDE eco tune, dpf delete, BuilderBill valve body
2013 VW Passat tdi, 6m
2005 GMC crew cab 5.3
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post #33 of 42 Old 09-06-2016, 11:43 PM
omsok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishinbama View Post
Basically a few things to remember: ( I just did this today again)
1. oil capacity is 10 Quarts
2. drain oil from drainplug and make sure to remove oil filter while it is draining.
3. when refilling, fill half of oil through oil filter.
4. wait 15 minutes before cranking.

Optional: curse Mercedes lots and lots while waiting impatiently on oil to go down
Why are people refilling half through filter housing? Does anybody know?
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post #34 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 12:34 AM
ggrassmid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omsok View Post
Why are people refilling half through filter housing? Does anybody know?
Supposedly you can spin the front main bearing. While I'm not convinced this could happen, it does make filling a little quicker since you are running some oil down both sides of the valve train.
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post #35 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 07:47 AM
08rubie1
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Buy a futomot drain valve.. makes draining a breeze
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post #36 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 11:37 AM
Brit30-06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omsok View Post
Why are people refilling half through filter housing? Does anybody know?
I do not understand why this is done. Surely the oil just falls to the sump regardless of whether it is put in the filter housing or filler cap. I am not saying they are wrong I am just saying I do not understand.

Brit.
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post #37 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 12:36 PM
Hendrix9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brit30-06 View Post
I do not understand why this is done. Surely the oil just falls to the sump regardless of whether it is put in the filter housing or filler cap. I am not saying they are wrong I am just saying I do not understand.

Brit.
I thought it had to do with the cool room temperature oil dumping into the hot engine cooling off that half of the engine more than the other side which can cause a problem of some sort. (even though we've never known of anyone who had it happen....)

I still do it, it only makes it take a few minutes longer vs just dumping it all down the fill tube. I'd rather do it for no reason than find out that what seemed silly had a purpose.

2007 CRD QDII
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post #38 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 12:45 PM
Tango.
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It was Merlin's idea. He thought it could run dry for a few seconds.

Life is hard-John Wayne
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post #39 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 07:04 PM
omsok
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Oil in Filter side. Danger Warning

As somebody above stated, I got to thinking about it and also think the oil would be in the pan, just the same as if the car had been, turned off, and restarted, which if have done an oil change, I would hope it had.

I had also been doing this with past oil changes, and actually did it with my last one, on the weekend.

I spoke to a friend of mine who was a senior mechanic at Chrysler Jeep, and was trained extensively and worked on these motors, and now works at Subaru.

He said the only time they do something like this is if there has been some sort of major tear down on the engine. In that case, they will also disconnect the ignition, or fuel (in diesel case) and turn the motor over until the pressure comes up to psi before firing the engine up. In this case they use an external gauge, not the "oil light" which trips off around 8 psi.


I also asked Conflicted racer this question after seeing what he recommended and finding he recommended the same practice of pouring 4-5 quarts down the filter side.

For those of you that do not know Conflictedracer, it is one of the best WK sources of mechanical and maintenance info on the web.

https://conflictedracer.wordpress.co...erokee-diesel/


The Danger part.
One thing I have found is some people (not necessarily WK CRDs) are accidentally dropping plastic, or aluminum foil slivers into the oil filter center hole when priming their filters, or "dry" side of their v blocks. This can have catastrophic consequences. If you do put oil down your filter hole, please make sure it is only oil.
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post #40 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 07:09 PM
omsok
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Oil drain Ball valve!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 08rubie1 View Post
Buy a futomot drain valve.. makes draining a breeze
Yep, one of the best investments ever. I don't even need the hose to stop oil splashing on skid plate because I have the 90 degree extension.

I Park the Jeep, let it cool, put the catch tub under, and flip the valve and forget about it for awhile. (N.B) I often take neg post off battery when draining oil like this because with E-Z drain valve I can dump the oil without actually using nay tools, or getting into shop mode while letting the engine drip drain.

Don't want anybody to start Jeep forgetting it is oil less. I am sure it has happened before.
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post #41 of 42 Old 09-07-2016, 07:16 PM
Tango.
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Merlin is the only one that I know of that came up with that idea. He's a really bright guy and knows the OM642 better than most folks. If you search on here you find his posts about this.

I'm sure it's a fantastic idea. I never do it.

Life is hard-John Wayne
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post #42 of 42 Old 09-08-2016, 11:13 AM
Brit30-06
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Hi Tango
I read the Merlin thread. I still do not understand why oil reaching the sump via the filter housing is different than oil reaching the sump from the filler tube. Does no harm though I suppose. I wonder if the Mercedes mechanics use this fill process.
Shame Merlin no longer visits the site.

Brit.
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