3.0 Diesel Grand Cherokee(2008) Leaking Oil - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WK Grand Cherokee & XK Commander Forum > 3.0 Diesel Grand Cherokee(2008) Leaking Oil

Labor day sale @ rockridge 4wd! 8/29-9/1 site wide..promo Rough Country Deals at JeepHut.comShocktober is here! Get new shocks for your Jeep!!!!

Reply
Unread 04-03-2013, 07:19 PM   #1
bettervibes11
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 8
3.0 Diesel Grand Cherokee(2008) Leaking Oil

I have had this 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 3.0 Liter V6 CRD for a few months now.... I have put ~7 thousand miles on it thus far.

I had the oil changed at the dealership when I first bought it due to unavailability of the oil in Reno. The mechanic DID NOT wait the 15 minutes after filling until starting, not sure if that is related.

The PROBLEM: The oil is now far below the minimum mark, it barely touches the dipstick. I see oil spray all around what appears to be the large tube going from the engine to the oil radiator (see pics). I do not know where exactley the leak is, but have a good idea. Is there a clip missing on the bottom side? It looks like it.... Please look at the pics and let me know what you think.... (Merlin, if you are out there please help).

Also, ran out of fuel the other night.... I know, I know.... bad move. But does anyone have any real input on the consequences of running this engine out of fuel, just filling up, and running it again?

Thanks to all who respond!

oil_leak3_opto.jpg   oil_leak4_opto.jpg   oil_leak1_opto.jpg  
bettervibes11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2013, 08:40 AM   #2
Radcrd
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 350
There is an O ring on that pipe. If you pull the spring clamp and pull back the pipe you will see it. It may need to be changed. However I would also check the intake pipe where it meets the turbo. Known area for leakage and subsequent swirl valve motor failure. Search swirl on this forum you will find plenty of pictures.

As for running out of fuel fill it and try to start, you may have to bleed the fuel filter. Better yet fill the fuel filter first if you can.
__________________
2007 WK CRD QDII, GDE HOT tune. 275/55/18'' on Sahara's, SRT8 suspension.
2000 Jetta TDI (hers)
2006 Liberty CRD (sold)
3 VW TDI's (sold)
Radcrd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2013, 09:59 AM   #3
oilverland
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Okanogan County, WA
Posts: 151
Good pix and they reveal an oil spill on the engine cover that probably got on the hose. Very sloppy work. I'd have the dealer clean it up, if you trust them at all. There are accounts in this forum of such spills getting on the alternator and causing it to fail. No excuse for the dealer to not follow factory procedure, that's what you are being charged for. I'd put this all on paper and give them a copy so it is on record.

Make sure they are in fact using the Mercedes spec oil listed in the owner's manual.

When you check the oil from time to time do it at one engine temp. It varies as much as 1/2 qt in my experience. When it is cold do not fill it beyond half way between min and max or it will be overfull when hot. Ask me how I know! No harm was actually done but you never know.

The usual warning: Make sure the seal between the turbo and the air inlet hose is black, not orange. The orange ones leak blow by oil and that leads to swirl motor failure, as alluded to in the last post.
__________________
2008 Overland Diesel QDII with mud flaps and Bilsteins.
1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 with factory "upcountry" 1" lift and skid plates [traded in some years ago]
oilverland is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2013, 10:01 AM   #4
oilverland
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Okanogan County, WA
Posts: 151
Also, the oil filler cap has to be oriented so the wording on it is right side up as you face the engine from the front of the car. It will fit 180 degrees out from that, but it will weep oil in that position. Doesn't make a bit of sense to me, but that's what happens.
__________________
2008 Overland Diesel QDII with mud flaps and Bilsteins.
1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 with factory "upcountry" 1" lift and skid plates [traded in some years ago]
oilverland is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2013, 10:40 AM   #5
bettervibes11
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 8
update:

Last night I decided to pull apart the hose by taking the clip off. As you said, there was a rubber O-ring in there that had been seated incorrectley. I put the o-ring in very hot water for ~15 minutes and it returned to normal shape.

So, why is there oil dripping down this air hose? What hose is this, what does it do?

I cleaned out the hose and put everything together, then pressure washed everything so I can clearly see future leaks.

Yes, I was sure to check the oil the dealer mechanic put in, I dont think he appreciated me checking his work, but I love this Jeep.

I will look at more pics of the leak into the swirl valve motor. Where do I check for the orange seal? all of the pics I see have the hose disconnected already. I really want to fix this.

Thanks for the info!
bettervibes11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2013, 10:57 AM   #6
oilverland
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Okanogan County, WA
Posts: 151
Quote:
Originally Posted by bettervibes11 View Post
update:

So, why is there oil dripping down this air hose? What hose is this, what does it do?

I will look at more pics of the leak into the swirl valve motor. Where do I check for the orange seal? all of the pics I see have the hose disconnected already. I really want to fix this.

Thanks for the info!
That's the compressed air going into the inlet manifold. There is blowby oil in that air, it's normal. A number of folks on the formum make mods to stop this from happening ("elephant hose mod" and "catch can"). I myself don't see the need for those changes, and the former opens the crankcase and it's pollutants to the atmosphere. The theory is that the oil in the intake air diminishes the effectiveness of the intercooler. All I can say is that at 110k miles mine pulls strongly with no mods.

As for the orange seal, it will either come off with the intake air hose, the one that comes from the air cleaner; or it will stay on the turbo itself. But you can see the color without dissasembly, just remove the engine cover and have a look at the end of the turbo facing front. (There's a smaller orange seal connecting the PVC hose to the intake air hose - that one doesn't seem to be the enemy.)
__________________
2008 Overland Diesel QDII with mud flaps and Bilsteins.
1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 with factory "upcountry" 1" lift and skid plates [traded in some years ago]
oilverland is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-15-2014, 05:42 PM   #7
sshaughn
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 134
If I lost one of the t20 screws, how and where would I get them from? What is the size? I went to Home Depot and auto zone with no luck?
__________________
2008 WK Overland 4WD CRD 3.0L, QD2, Green Diesel Engineering Hot-Tune, MBRP Exhaust, CB Engineering Turbo Resonator Delete Pipe, Kolak Addco Rear Sway Bar, K&N Air Filter, Propel Fuels B20 Biodiesel
sshaughn is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-16-2014, 09:35 AM   #8
oilverland
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Okanogan County, WA
Posts: 151
They are a standard metric size, I forget which, a 5 or 6 mm nominal diameter. I substitute metric allen head, which you are likely to find at Home Depot or Ace Hardware or the like. Motorcycle shops that handle Japanese or European brands are likely to have matches too. I haven't been under the engine cover in a while but maybe there is another bolt of the same diameter and length that you can match. They might even be called out in the parts manual which you can find on http://wkjeeps.com/wk_brochures.htm#MANUALS.

I wind up preferring the allen head because the wrenches I have work better with them when clearance is tight.
__________________
2008 Overland Diesel QDII with mud flaps and Bilsteins.
1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 with factory "upcountry" 1" lift and skid plates [traded in some years ago]
oilverland is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-16-2014, 08:10 PM   #9
sshaughn
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by oilverland View Post
They are a standard metric size, I forget which, a 5 or 6 mm nominal diameter. I substitute metric allen head, which you are likely to find at Home Depot or Ace Hardware or the like. Motorcycle shops that handle Japanese or European brands are likely to have matches too. I haven't been under the engine cover in a while but maybe there is another bolt of the same diameter and length that you can match. They might even be called out in the parts manual which you can find on http://wkjeeps.com/wk_brochures.htm#MANUALS.

.
Thanks, I check at ACE and or an import shop. Also, fuel is still leaking slightly on top of the filter, all the hoses have been replaced, new fuel filter so I'm wondering why it's still leaking fuel? Any ideas? Could it be from not having the one t20 screws on top of the water level sensor? Thanks in advance
__________________
2008 WK Overland 4WD CRD 3.0L, QD2, Green Diesel Engineering Hot-Tune, MBRP Exhaust, CB Engineering Turbo Resonator Delete Pipe, Kolak Addco Rear Sway Bar, K&N Air Filter, Propel Fuels B20 Biodiesel
sshaughn is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-16-2014, 09:06 PM   #10
BAH101
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
Posts: 737
Quote:
Originally Posted by sshaughn
Thanks, I check at ACE and or an import shop. Also, fuel is still leaking slightly on top of the filter, all the hoses have been replaced, new fuel filter so I'm wondering why it's still leaking fuel? Any ideas? Could it be from not having the one t20 screws on top of the water level sensor? Thanks in advance
The first time I did my filter it leaked. I found it was from the seals on the water sensor. I put a small amount of liquid gasket on the upper seal. Been doing that every filter change and no leaks. The product I used was Hylomar.
__________________
2008 CRD QDII, OME HD, Pintlers wheels with 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armour's, Jeepinbyal UCA's. 4XGuard Front guard, Side Guard, belly guard, Matrix HC. GDE ECO Tune w/ delete.
BAH101 is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.