2008 Wk (gc) CRD ETC light, EGR - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 06-28-2017, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
Slaithe
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2008 Wk (gc) CRD ETC light, EGR

Hello.

I have a WK with a GDE hot tune that's supposed to have the EGR valve disabled correct?

My jeep developed dripping oil leak at the rear of the engine (dealership said it was the rear main seal and repaired it with out my permission a little later on).

The CAT sensor went out and was throwing intermittent codes for the bank 1 sensor 1 low voltage and open circuit.

Failed for EGR just before taking it in, in addition same open circuit.

Took jeep to the dealership to get the oil leak trouble shot. The dealer dropped skid plate, looked around, and added UV die to the oil, and told me to drive it for a couple weeks and to please get the under carriage washed if I could. On the way home the check engine light came again, for the EGR valve in addition to the CAT o2 sensor low voltage and open circuit bank 1 sensor 1.

Was assuming the EGR fail was caused by the bad o2 sensor...

Jeep drove GRATE this entire time.

Got the undercarriage washed (dealer holding on to my skid plate), and immediately after that, the ETC light came on for half the day. Went away for a day. Then came back for good. (I of course assume the wash is what caused this problem....)

Took jeep back to dealership to finish identifying the oil and trouble shoot the ETC light.
They identified the leak as the rear main seel. Told me about the EGR codes (again). Then spent several weeks looking for a new seal, even though I told them not to fix it yet as I wanted to get a second opinion to make sure there was for sure no other addition leeks AND I was thinking I would probably have the labor done some where else...

Several weeks later they call saying the leak has been repaired and the EGR is causing the ETC fail (again) And the EGR is just now physically falling apart, several weeks later... Seems odd they wouldn't have noticed a LONG time ago. I don't know, just seems quite off to me...

Really not sure, seems odd they wouldn't have mentioned it falling apart earlier, and would be difficult not to notice...

Any information y'all can give would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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post #2 of 15 Old 06-28-2017, 02:38 PM
underscore
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2007 WK 
 
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Step 1 is don't let a dealer touch a WK, especially not a CRD. Find an independent Mercedes specialist if you need engine work done.

2007 WK CRD QDII OME MD OMG WTF BBQ
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post #3 of 15 Old 06-28-2017, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
Slaithe
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Thanks underscore... Haven't been able to locate one in my area.

Got to take a look at the vehicle lil'. The connection of egr valve slides back and forth along the egr module little. The wires on both sides of connector all look fine, couldn't see the any broken, but couldn't get a good view of where the connecter on the back side where it's attached to the egr.

Will get possession of vehicle tomorrow. Does any one know if there is a resister mod for egr, like for the swirl motor, so I can verify if egr valve is infact causing the ETC lamp to flash with Limp Home Mode?

Should be able to replace the egr valve my self, np, but have little confidence it's the cause of ETC problem being as it drove fine with that ODB II code before the car wash.

Thanks in advance.
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post #4 of 15 Old 06-28-2017, 06:44 PM
caddydaddy
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A lot of times the oil cooler seal leak gets misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak.

As for the EGR issue, I have the EGR delete kit on my CRD from CB-Engineering. It came with a bypass plug to allow the complete removal of the EGR valve. Maybe CB-E could sell you just the bypass plug?

2007 CRD Limited w/QDII
GDE HOT Tune, Turbo Resonator Delete
2" RC lift
199,000+ miles!
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post #5 of 15 Old 06-28-2017, 07:14 PM
Tango.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caddydaddy View Post
A lot of times the oil cooler seal leak gets misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak.

...

My thoughts exactly.

Life is hard-John Wayne
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post #6 of 15 Old 06-29-2017, 09:54 AM
lutes2002
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Probably a block off is what you are looking for from CB-Engineering.

Jeep Mercedes Sprinter OM642 EGR Block Off Plates
$90.00

http://cb-engineer.com/products/egr-block-off-plates
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post #7 of 15 Old 06-30-2017, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
Slaithe
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Thanks caddydaddy. I think that's bypass plug is exactly what I need.

Thanks iutes, but I need an EGR valve for visual inspection.
----

Was defiantly the egr valve, disconnected and everything's all better.

Does any know how one could verify the valve is still in the closed position with out ripping it out and looking at it? (Assuming it is)

Thanks again all.
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-01-2017, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
Slaithe
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A quick update. For the interested
____
Fixed the CEL for unplugged broken EGR with a quick resistor mod.

Jeep really run super freaking grate now, and the remote start works again and with no CEL or pending codes!

But, I'll still have to verify the valve is stuck in the closed position like its supposed to be an fab up a more eloquent temp solution tell I can get a new valve (almost $600! There is Wahle aftermarket part a lil' under 300 on flee bay I don't trust though).
.----

As for the oil leak... It's still dripping, though a lil less, so the un-authorised rear main seal did NOT completely fix the problem but might have been leaking a lil' too. I don't know. Also dealer ship forgot to install my dang skid plate!

Ugh... Terrible. Will be going back for my skid, starting a BAR dispute, and I guess taking the jeep a few hours out of town some where, if / when I can.
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-01-2017, 07:48 PM
suzieque
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i had a rear main seal leak that I think was actually the crankcase breather outlet, you have to remove the black foam head cover thingy and look at the pcv outlet closely.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-01-2017, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
Slaithe
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Thanks suzieque, but where would the pcv be located? Haven't been able to find any pics or vids for crd, just gassers.

Assuming some where near black egr cooler's cover?

Thanks. Going back to dealership Monday to get skid n see what they say... Probably offering more highway robbery.
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-02-2017, 09:33 PM
suzieque
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oil leaks from this outlet on the crankcase ventilation http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...-crd-img06.jpg

the crankcase ventilation hose is in this picture http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...-crd-img05.jpg

you have to remove the air intake tube http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...-crd-img02.jpg

and you have to remove the foam rubber thingy http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...-crd-img04.jpg

you can read Chirpz full description on how to install his own ventilation hose mod (referred to as the elephant hose mod) if you want http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/e...l-crd-1228978/

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-03-2017, 11:22 AM
suzieque
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one other thing to consider is that the 2007 CRD rear main seal is different than the 2008 CRD rear main seal. I bought both at one time. The 2007 version will not seal properly on the 2008 CRD engine, but the 2007 version came with a handy dandy seal alignment tool that aids in the install of the 2008 rear main seal.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-17-2017, 02:50 AM
Madnibbles
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Hello , i hope your able to put some light on your ETC light issue
i have a same problems with light one constantly ,mines a 2007 2.8 CRD
I hope you able to advise before changing to many parts etc
Cheers
ROB
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-18-2017, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
Slaithe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madnibbles View Post
Hello , i hope your able to put some light on your ETC light issue
i have a same problems with light one constantly ,mines a 2007 2.8 CRD
I hope you able to advise before changing to many parts etc
Cheers
ROB
Hello. Yes, fixed that with in couple days.

Scan for codes...

For mine... Part of the plastic housing on the egr started to separate from the main metal part, and water got inside during an engine and undercarriage, thorough washing... Fried it electronically.

Standard GDE tuning just tells the EGR to stay closed during operation, not delete it so egr can still cause problems.

Unplugging egr solved ETC problem, but leaves CEL and codes for EGR. Used a 4.7k resistor to solve CEL and codes, temperairly tell I can affored a new valve... Though it's not needed, runs perfect no codes, remote start works. Just bothers me having that broken bit there.

=====

As for the oil leak my crack shaft is just slightly worn... So I have a slow perpetal.leak now but that seal was orginally definitely bad.

Dealer couldnt find any other leaks, say the even looked around with a bore scope... Might look my sefl if I can ever get it lifted up and barrow tools.
====

Hope it helps.
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-19-2017, 06:13 PM
Curlybandit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaithe View Post
Hello. Yes, fixed that with in couple days.

Scan for codes...

For mine... Part of the plastic housing on the egr started to separate from the main metal part, and water got inside during an engine and undercarriage, thorough washing... Fried it electronically.

Standard GDE tuning just tells the EGR to stay closed during operation, not delete it so egr can still cause problems.

Unplugging egr solved ETC problem, but leaves CEL and codes for EGR. Used a 4.7k resistor to solve CEL and codes, temperairly tell I can affored a new valve... Though it's not needed, runs perfect no codes, remote start works. Just bothers me having that broken bit there.
Hi Slaithe.

I started having the EXACT same issue as you regarding the EGR and ETC as of one week ago - code P0404. I took it to my mechanic to fiddle with while I was away for the week. We did the swirl valve resistor mod to eliminate that as a future issue but haven't resolved the EGR/ETC and limp-mode issue.

I'm considering eliminating the EGR like you did but I'm unaware of a resistor mod for the EGR. I see that you've done something like this already.

Can you please elaborate? Is it essentially the same as the swirl valve resistor mod?

Thanks.
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